Baltoro Muztagh
Route Description: с севера
Ascent to the summit of Hidden Peak (8068 m) in Karakoram via the Northwest Face, route difficulty category, team composition, and ascent details.
Ascent Passport
- Climbing area: Karakoram
- Ascent class: High-altitude
- Peak: Hidden Peak (8068 m) via NW wall couloir (Japanese couloir)
- Route difficulty category: 5B
- Route characteristics:
- elevation gain from base camp 2918 m
- length of sections with 5th category difficulty 400 m
- average steepness (6500 m – summit) 50°
- Pitons driven
Route Description: с севера
Climb description of a Kazakh team on Hidden Peak (8068 m) in Karakoram via a combined route, rated 6A in difficulty.
- Karakorum mountain system
- Hidden Peak, 8068 m
- Cat. of diff. — 6A approximately
- Route type — combined
- Route elevation gain — 2768 m Route length — 12180 m. Section lengths:
- V cat. of diff. — 80 m
- VI cat. of diff. — 0
- Pitons left on the route: total — 25 Pitons used:
Route Description: «бастиону» СЗ стены
Description of the first ascent of the Southwest Face of **Trango Tower** (6237 m) in Karakorum, made by a Russian team in 2007 via a Category 6B route.
Ascent Record
- Region — Karakoram, Trango group.
- Peak — Great Trango (SW), 6237 m via the bastion of the northwestern wall.
- Proposed — 6B cat. dif. (ED VI+, 7a, A3), first ascent.
- Route characteristic — combined.
5. Route Description
wall section height difference — 1830 m, route length — 2100 m, sections of 6B cat. dif. — 1050 m, 5 cat. dif. — 530 m, average steepness of the wall section — 69°. 6. Left on the route: pitons — 18, including bolted — 12; "chocks" — 1. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted — 12, including for platform installation — 7; total ITC used — 500. 7. Number of climbing hours — 113, days — 13 (including processing).
Route Description: правой части СЗ стены
First ascent description of the right part of the northwest face of Great Trango Tower 6150m in Karakoram, Pakistan, made in 2007 by a Russian team led by Alexander Mikhalitsin.
Ascent Record
- Region — Karakoram, Pakistan.
- Peak — Great Trango Tower 6150 m, via the right part of the NW wall.
- Claimed grade — 6B, first ascent.
- Route characteristic — rock.
- Route description:
- wall section height difference — 1820 m
- route length — 2100 m
- length of 6th category sections — 850 m, 5th category — 1025 m
- average steepness of the entire route — 70°
Route Description: ЮВ стене
Report on the first ascent to the summit of Tangra Tower (5820 m) via the southeast wall, category 6B, completed by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai in 4 days in August 2019.
Russian Championship in Alpinism
Technical Class 2019
REPORT
on the ascent to Tangra Tower (5820 m) via the southeast wall, 6B category of complexity — first ascent by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai. July 30, 2019–August 2, 2019.
I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Prokofyev D.E. (MS) |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of team members | Popova M.E. (MS), Matyushin N.O. (CMS) |
Route Description: с юга
Report on the first Russian expedition to Gasherbrum 2 (8035 m) via the classic southern route, category 6A difficulty level in 2005.
First Russian Expedition to Gasherbrum 2 Climbing Passport
- Karakoram, Baltoro region
- Gasherbrum 2 8035 m, from the south (classic route)
- 6A category of difficulty, variation
- Ice-snow route
- Elevation gain of the route: 2935 m. Route length 8600 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty 240 m. Average slope 28°.
Route Description: ЮЗ стене
**First Ascent of the Southwest Face of Broad Peak (8047 m)** in Karakoram by Kazakhstani climbers in 2005, route category 6B.
Ascent Passport
- Central Karakoram, upper reaches of Baltoro Glacier.
- Broad Peak (8047 m), Southwest Face, first ascent
- Submitted as category 6B complexity
- Route type – combined
- Route height difference – 3247 m Route length – 6067 m Section length: category V – 93 m, category VI – 12 m. Average slope: main part of the route (sections R18–R70) – 54°, entire route – 31.5°.
- Pitons left on the route: total – 0, bolted – 0
Route Description: З ребру С гребня
Report on the ascent of CSKA MO RK team to Broad Peak (8048 m) in Karakoram in 2003 via the west face of the north ridge.
Ascent Passport
- Karakoram mountain system
- Broad Peak, 8048 m
- Category of difficulty — 5B
- West Ridge of the North Ridge, Austrian 1957, combined
- Route height difference — 2946 m. Route length — 5714 m.
- Pitons used on the route (Korean expedition pitons): total — 52 left on the mountain — 52
Route Description: бастиону СЗ стены
The Saint-Petersburg team of the Russian Mountaineering Federation has made the first ascent of the "Parallel World" route up the Northwest Wall of Great Trango Tower (6237 m) in Karakorum, Pakistan, rated 6B in difficulty.
Russian Mountaineering Championship. Altitude Class. August 2011
Report
Combined team of FASiL St. Petersburg on Great Trango Tower (6237 m) via the bastion of the Northwest Wall. Route "Parallel World". First ascent. Proposed category complexity 6B (VI+, 7b, A3). Karakoram. Pakistan.
Team leader: Kopteva M.V.
Team coaches: Chapliński I.O., Kapitanov O.V.
St. Petersburg, 2011
Climbing Passport
- Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier area.
- Peak - Great Trango Tower (Southwest), 6237 m. Via the bastion of the Northwest Wall.