Russian Mountaineering Championship. Altitude Class. August 2011

Report

Combined team of FASiL St. Petersburg on Great Trango Tower (6237 m) via the bastion of the Northwest Wall. Route "Parallel World". First ascent. Proposed category complexity 6B (VI+, 7b, A3). Karakoram. Pakistan. Team leader: Kopteva M.V. Team coaches: Chapliński I.O., Kapitanov O.V. St. Petersburg, 2011

Climbing Passport

1. Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier area.
2. Peak - Great Trango Tower (Southwest), 6237 m. Via the bastion of the Northwest Wall.

Ascent Passport

1. Karakoram mountain system
2. Broad Peak, 8048 m
3. Category of difficulty — 5B
4. West Ridge of the North Ridge, Austrian 1957, combined
5. Route height difference — 2946 m. Route length — 5714 m.
6. Pitons used on the route (Korean expedition pitons): total — 52 left on the mountain — 52

Ascent Passport

1. Central Karakoram, upper reaches of Baltoro Glacier.
2. Broad Peak (8047 m), Southwest Face, first ascent
3. Submitted as category 6B complexity
4. Route type – combined
5. Route height difference – 3247 m Route length – 6067 m Section length: category V – 93 m, category VI – 12 m. Average slope: main part of the route (sections R18–R70) – 54°, entire route – 31.5°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total – 0, bolted – 0

First Russian Expedition to Gasherbrum 2 Climbing Passport

1. Karakoram, Baltoro region
2. Gasherbrum 2 8035 m, from the south (classic route)
3. 6A category of difficulty, variation
4. Ice-snow route
5. Elevation gain of the route: 2935 m. Route length 8600 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty 240 m. Average slope 28°.

Russian Championship in Alpinism

Technical Class 2019

REPORT

on the ascent to Tangra Tower (5820 m) via the southeast wall, 6B category of complexity — first ascent by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai. July 30, 2019–August 2, 2019.

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Prokofyev D.E. (MS)
1.2	Full name, sports rank of team members	Popova M.E. (MS), Matyushin N.O. (CMS)

Ascent Record

1. Region — Karakoram, Pakistan.
2. Peak — Great Trango Tower 6150 m, via the right part of the NW wall.
3. Claimed grade — 6B, first ascent.
4. Route characteristic — rock.
5. Route description:
   • wall section height difference — 1820 m
   • route length — 2100 m
   • length of 6th category sections — 850 m, 5th category — 1025 m
   • average steepness of the entire route — 70°

Ascent Record

1. Region — Karakoram, Trango group.
2. Peak — Great Trango (SW), 6237 m via the bastion of the northwestern wall.
3. Proposed — 6B cat. dif. (ED VI+, 7a, A3), first ascent.
4. Route characteristic — combined.

5. Route Description

wall section height difference — 1830 m, route length — 2100 m, sections of 6B cat. dif. — 1050 m, 5 cat. dif. — 530 m, average steepness of the wall section — 69°. 6. Left on the route: pitons — 18, including bolted — 12; "chocks" — 1. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted — 12, including for platform installation — 7; total ITC used — 500. 7. Number of climbing hours — 113, days — 13 (including processing).

1. Karakorum mountain system
2. Hidden Peak, 8068 m
3. Cat. of diff. — 6A approximately
4. Route type — combined
5. Route elevation gain — 2768 m Route length — 12180 m. Section lengths:

• V cat. of diff. — 80 m
• VI cat. of diff. — 0

6. Pitons left on the route: total — 25 Pitons used:

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area: Karakoram
2. Ascent class: High-altitude
3. Peak: Hidden Peak (8068 m) via NW wall couloir (Japanese couloir)
4. Route difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain from base camp 2918 m
   • length of sections with 5th category difficulty 400 m
   • average steepness (6500 m – summit) 50°
6. Pitons driven