Mshatka — Kaya-3

Along the left inner corner of the western part of the massif («Fork»), 2B (200 m, III) (by K. Rybal­ko and V. Khi­tri­ko­va, 1973) The approaches to the route start from the upper highway 50 m below the alpinist parking located under the central part of the Foros Cant. Upwards and slightly left at first along the trail, and then along simple rocks to a wide vague inner corner, which "cut through" the entire wall of the massif (R0: 300 m, 45°, no cat.). At the R1–R4 section — upwards first on the left along a 20-meter inner corner to a large trapezoidal ledge of the wall, and then along a sheer wall to a tree (R1–R4: 40 m, 65°, III+). At the R2–R4 sections — first upwards along the smooth slabs of a wide inner corner to the

Mshatka — Kaya-3

Via the left inner corner of the western part of the massif («Fork»), 2B (200 m, III) (route by K. Rybalko and V. Khitrikova, 1973)

The approaches to the route start from the upper highway 50 m below the alpinist camping site located under the central part of the Foros Cant. Upwards and slightly left, first along the trail, and then across simple rocks to a wide, indistinct inner corner that "cuts through" the entire wall of the massif (R0: 300 m, 45°, unclimbed). On section R1–R2 — upwards, first left through a 20-meter inner corner to a large trapezoidal ledge on the wall, and then up a sheer wall to a tree (R1–R2: 40 m, 65°, III+). On sections R2–R4 — first upwards through smooth slabs of the wide inner corner to

Mshatka-Kaya — 6. "Pacific"

Massif: Mshatka-Kaya (618 m) Complexity: 3A Authors: Kirill Gostev, Vladimir Odoyev The first two ropes of the route coincide with the "Boomerang" route 4A. The route itself is a combination of variations between "Filatovka" and "Boomerang", but is quite interesting and independent. R0–R1 (45 m, IV)

• The start of the first rope, slightly to the left of "Filatovka" — an inner corner that leads to a ledge
• There will be a tree on the left, then move up the slabs to the base of a mulda
• Then move right up a thin crack to a large tree, with the tree on the exit on the left
• Protection: nuts, cams, anchors R1–R2 (40 m, III)

Mshatka-Kaya — Category 16

On the left side of the "triangle" in the eastern part of the massif ("left triangle"), beyond

Between the Central and Eastern bastions, in the upper part of the wall, two long, oblique, intermittent ledges with trees form a large oblique angle, clearly visible from the road, and named the Triangle. The middle part of the route passes along the left ledge, forming the Triangle. From the upper road, 30 m east of the fork to the lower (main) road and the village of Foros, ascend first along the trail, and then up and to the right along the talus and simple rocks to a shrub- and tree-covered inclined terrace, located under the "Triangle". Along it, left and up to a large rusty inner corner (section R0: 100 m, 30–45°, no category; 50 m, 50^{\circ}, category I; 50 m, 30–40°, no category) On section R1–R2 — first 20 m up the sheer corner or its left wall. Then:

• 20 m up the wall to the left of the inner corner;
• 10 m up and left into the next inner corner.

Mshatka-Kaya — 2. "Halloween"

Massif: Mshatka-Kaya (618 m) Category: 3B Author: Kirill Gostev, Vladimir Odoyev A warm autumn day and a good mood, what else is needed for a pleasant climb. Of course, a location, a summit, where you can create a new route. Many will say - they say, in Foros there's no room left for pioneers, but if you think and take a closer look, you can find new lines. The route passes between the routes "Vilka levaya" (Left Fork) 2B and "Victoria" 2B. Despite the fact that the line is quite broken due to a long traverse, the route itself is interesting and logical, entirely tied to the relief, all stations are on their own gear and trees. Many sections of pleasant climbing.

Mshatka-Kaya — 7

Via the first counterforce of the western part of the massif ("Filatova"), 3B (20 m, V) (route by V. and A. Volkodav and E. Filatova, 1972)

This is one of the most popular routes among climbers of average qualification. 50 m east of the climbers' camp near the Foros Canyon, from the upper highway, ascend up and to the right first along the trail, and then along simple rocks in the direction of the first counterforce of the western part of the massif. The main part of the route begins from a horizontal ledge located at the base of the left side of the counterforce (section R0: 300 m, 45°, no category). On section R1–R2 — up along the inner corner 15 m to a ledge with a tree. Then, first along the wall, and then left and up to a tree (R1–R2: 15 m, 70°, II; 25 m, 75°, III).

Mshatka-Kaya — 19

Along the right side of the triangle in the eastern part of the massif ("triangle on the right"), category 3B

Between the Central and Eastern bastions, in the upper part of the wall, two long oblique discontinuous shelves with trees form a large oblique angle, clearly visible from the road, and named the Triangle. The main part of the route passes along the right discontinuous shelf forming the Triangle. From the upper road, 30 m east of the fork to the lower (main) road and the village of Foros, ascend first along the trail, and then up and to the right along the scree and simple rocks to a tree- and shrub-covered inclined terrace located under the "Triangle". Along it to the upper right corner (section R0: 250 m, 30–50°, category I) On section R1–R2 — from the right upper corner of the terrace, ascend a 10-meter wall to a long discontinuous groove — the right lateral side of the "Triangle". Along the groove, left and upwards to a large tree (R1–R2: 40 m, 70°, category III) On section R2–R3 — first up into a small mulde, and then up and left to a shelf at the base of a small internal angle. Along it, left to the external angle (ridge) and then to a small, narrowing shelf (R2–R3: 40 m, 70°, category III). On section R3–R4 — along complex rocks, left and upwards (R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, category IV+). On section R4–R5 — ascend steep and smooth slabs to the base of an overgrown couloir — the "apex" of the Triangle (R4–R5: 50 m, 70–60°, category III–II). On section R5–R6 — up the couloir and left to the base of a steep internal angle (R5–R6: 40 m, 60°, category II).

Crimea. Mshatka-Kaya "Boomerang" Route, 4A

On June 17, 2012, a group of three people - Gostev Kirill (Yalta), Odoyev Vladimir, and Leontyeva Ekaterina (Sevastopol) - made an ascent to the summit of Mshatka-Kaya via a new route. The route was named "Boomerang" and was estimated to be approximately 3B/4A (classified as 4A). It was done almost a year and a half ago, but it was only recently that the necessary paperwork was completed and the information was shared online. We are sharing the information with you:

• from the ascent passport
• UIAA scheme
• description.

Mshatka-Kaya Peak (650 m), "Boomerang" Route.

Difficulty category: presumably 3B/4A (classified as 4A)

Route Characteristics:

length — 300 m (7 ropes); length of sections:

Mshatka-Kaya — 8

Via the second counter-forcing route of the western part of the "Ear" massif, 4A

This is one of the most popular routes among climbers of average qualification. From the upper highway 50 m east of the climbers' parking near Forosky Kant:

• up and to the right at first along the trail and simple rocks
• to the base of the second counter-forcing route of the western part of the massif (R0: 300 m, 30–45, no category). On the R1–R2 section:
• up the system of walls and shelves
• then along the inner corner to a tree (R1–R2: 40 m, 700, III). On the R2–R4 section — at first up and left into the inner corner. Then along it for 70 m.

Mshatka-Kaya — category 17

Through the center of the "triangle" in the eastern part of the massif ("triangle in the center"), 4a (route by A. Volkodav and M. Bystritsky, 1973)

Between the Central and Eastern bastions, in the upper part of the wall, two long, oblique, interrupted shelves with trees form a large oblique angle, clearly visible from the road and referred to as the "Triangle". Below these shelves is a steep wall. In its center, a group of trees on a terrace is clearly visible. The route passes through the center of the wall to this group of trees, and then upwards and to the left — to a long shelf forming the left side of the "Triangle". From the upper road, 30 m east of the fork to the main road and Foros settlement, ascend first along the trail, and then along the talus and simple rocks to a sloping terrace overgrown with bushes and trees, and along it to the central part of the wall (R0: 200 m, 30–50°, no category — I).