Kilse-Burun (712 m) — 14. "Hot Peace", 6A

Author: Alexander Zakolodny, Kharkov

On October 17-18, Alexander Zakolodny (Kharkov) and Yuri Kruglov (Sevastopol) ascended a new route with a difficulty of 6A, in classical style from bottom to top, without prior processing from the top. The new route passes between the routes: "Yellow Submarine" and "Crocodile".

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The line passes between the routes: "Yellow Submarine" and "Crocodile". The landmark from the road is a large pine tree on the ledge.

  • R0–R1. Up to the right on the broken rocks. Station on a large ledge, 10 m to the left of the large pine tree. 35 m, IV.
  • R1–R2. Up 5 m, then to the right into the red corner and up the right wall onto a large ledge. From the ledge, on the wall, find a hole for a skyhook and then up a small crack under the overhang with a characteristically pronounced square stone. Station on its own (anchor hook left). 38 m, VI, A2.
  • R2–R3. From under the overhang to the right and up 8 m, to a vertical crack. Up the crack. Station on the shallowing, there is a bolt and a hook. 38 m, VI, A2+.

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Almost all stations are protected from stones.

Recommendations:

More anchor hooks 15-17 pcs.

Rock hooks:

  • 2 wedges

  • 2 petals

  • 2 U-shaped channels (large, medium)

  • Two 50 m ropes

  • 23 quickdraws, more long ones

  • 1-hole skyhook, 1 relief medium

  • Nuts, cams — standard.

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Sources

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