"Crocodile" Turkevich route, cat. 6A, 1976
Not reaching the "forest ranger's house" by 10 m, follow an obscure path to come under the wall. The start of the route is next to a large pine tree growing under the wall.
R0–R1: ascend the broken rocks upwards, slightly left, to reach a small tree. The belay station is on the tree. 5a/5b, 30 m
R1–R2: from the station, go right-upwards, 7 m, to under a ledge; under the ledge, traverse right to a bollard, 5-7 m. Further - upwards, through an overhang, 5 m, to an artificial aid, then - via a small internal corner - exit onto an inclined slab. Belay station. There is a bollard. 40 m, 6aA2 (the rope is hazardous - beware!)
R2–R3: From the station, ascend leftwards, via an overhanging internal corner, then by free climbing, bypassing the overhanging ruin on the left, to reach the base of the "Crocodile" bulge. Ascend the cleft formed by the bulge and the wall to the top of the bulge. The belay station is on personal anchors. 50 m, 6A
R3–R4: From the station, descend 3 m to the other side of the bulge. Further, ascend the wide cleft with destroyed edges upwards, to under a heavily destroyed overhang. From here, perform a complex traverse left, 5-7 m, then ascend the cleft to a small juniper.
- Descend 3 m to the other side of the bulge
- Ascend the wide cleft with destroyed edges upwards
- Pass under the heavily destroyed overhang
- Perform a complex traverse left (5-7 m)
- Ascend the cleft upwards
- Reach a small juniper
Belay station. 45 m, 6a A2
R4–R5: ascend the internal corner upwards, 20 m, then via simple rocks, exit onto an inclined scree ledge. 30 m, 5b/5c
R5–R6: walk along the ledge to come under the 2nd bastion.
R6–R7: from the large sprawling pine tree:
- ascend the cleft leftwards upwards
- then rightwards upwards
- via small relief features.
40 m, 5c A2, belay station on a large juniper.
R7–R8:
- from the station, ascend upwards to a small ledge.
- Under the ledge, traverse right, 5 m.
- Further, ascend the internal corner upwards, 20 m, to exit onto a flattening.
It's convenient to set up a belay station in the right part. On personal pitons. 40 m, 5b
R8–R9: From the station, move in the direction of a chip, along the left side of a strongly opened internal corner. Near the chip, there is a bollard. Further upwards, leaving the internal corner on the right on artificial aids (there are 3 holes for skyhooks). Then, via the right internal corner, exit onto the yayla.
45 m, 6A
On the route, it's convenient to belay with two ropes. It's necessary to have:
- a wide range of pitons
- 2 skyhooks
- anchors
- large friends or hexes.