East European Highlands
Route Description: Перо
A 5A grade route to the summit of Maly Kilse-Burun via the central part of the southern wall and the Perо chip.
Maly Kilse-Burun — 4
Via the central part of the southern wall through the spalled "Feather", 5A (Y — 40 m) (S. Brynza's itinerary, 1991)
The description of the ascent to the wide rocky ledge under the central part of the southern
wall is given in route 3. The initial sections of this route coincide with route 3.
On the R2–R3 section, first ascend the slabs to the counterfort, and then follow it (R1–R2:
20 m, 60°, II; 40 m, 75°,
IV+).
On the R2–R3 section — ascend simple rocks to an internal corner located to the right of a
long and narrow spall ("Nashlyopka" or "Feather") (R2–R3: 20 m, 60°, I).
On the R3–R4 section — ascend the internal corner, transitioning into a chimney, until you
Route Description: Копье
Description of the "German" (Kop'e) route 5B, VI, A1, 250 m to the summit of Maly Kilse-Buрун with a detailed technical characteristic of each section.
Maly Kilsye-Burun — 6
Description compiled by: Aleksей Osipov German ("Spear") 5B, VI, A1, 250 m
R0–R1
15 m — IV, 8 m — V+, 15 m — VI, A1 R1–R2 (can be divided into 2 sections due to a bend) 20 m to a tree — V, 2 m pendulum to the left (although the bolt is no longer there) — VI 10 m — IV+
R2–R3
45 m — V
Route Description: Кризис
The "Crisis" route on Maly Kilse-Buroun, complexity category 5A, VI, A3, length 240 m, time to complete 7-9 hours.
Maly Kilse-Burun — 3. "Crisis"
Massif: Maly Kilse-Burun (638 m); Grade: 5A, VI, A3; Year of route creation:
2007; Number of pitches: 6; Length: 240 m; Time to complete: 7–9 h
The route is located in the left part of the wall. A memorial plaque to
climbers who perished on the mountain serves as a landmark for the start
of the route.
R0–R1. 45 m. From the plaque, first up, then diagonally from right to left along
a thin crack, we exit to the base of a large flake. There is one intermediate
bolts.
Route Description: Три карниза
Description of the "Three Cornices" route, category 5B difficulty level, to the summit of Maly Kilse-Burun with a detailed analysis of the stages and options for passage.
Maly Kilsе-Burun — 5B
The description was compiled by: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odesa "Three Cornices" route by Yuriy Lishaev 5B, VI, A2, 220 m The route starts from the left part of the "mould", 30–40 meters to the left of "Kop'e" ("German") R0–R1
- Up the wall with sharp holds, to a belay bolt 5–7 meters
- From the belay bolt traverse right to a crack
- Climb up the crack 10 m
- Then up a vertical slab with belay bolts A1, it's possible to
climb
Maly Kilsе "Three Cornices" 6A
Route Description: Скальная хирургия
The "Rock Surgery" route 6A on Maly Kilse-Burun, a detailed description of the route with technical details and characteristics of the complexity of each stage.
Maly Kilse-Burun, Skalnaya khirurgiya route, 6A, by V. Voloshanovsky
The start is to the right of the "Spear" near the white spot on the wall.
Maly Kilse, route threads
Route threads. Photo by: Alexey Zhilin
R0–R1, 40 m 6A, A2. Climb the slab to a bolt, then move right to a crack. After 7
m, the crack ends; continue right and up using ATC ( крючья, скайхуки). Exit to
a hanging position. Station on bolts.
R1–R2, 20 m 6A, A2. Cross the overhang using ATC (need bolts for 10 mm holes). Beyond
the overhang, a mix of climbing and ATC, up and right. Station on bolts (hanging).
R2–R3, 45 m 6a, A2. Up a narrow crack, enter an internal corner. Climb the corner
Route Description: Седьмой
Route of 3B category of complexity to the top of Kay in Crimea, length 320 m, time of passage 4-6 hours, 7 pitches.
Cuba — Kaya 6. "Seventh"
Difficulty: 3B V Authors: Lavrinenko A., Shvets Year of route creation: 2009 Number of pitches: 7 Length: 320 m Time to complete: 4–6 hours Route description: Approach from the upper road straight through the bushes to the wall. The start is easy to find — the most logical and monolithic internal corner.
R0–R1 60 m. Up left along the corner, protection — friends and pitons, mostly not difficult, but there will be a couple of steep walls. Station on the upper tree. (The most convenient place) IV
R1–R2 35 m. Up the corner 15 m, then along its left edge bypass the red hanging rock from the left, and exit up to a tree. Station. IV
R2–R3 50 m. Up through a system of cracks, through a small overhang, then up along the cracks, trending right, through a corner with a "cork", exit onto simple rocks. Then move left along large blocks. Station on a ledge.
List:
- 10 m V
- 30 m IV
- 10 m II
Route Description: 9е марта
Description of the "9 марта" 4A route to the top of Куба-Кая (Crimea), climbed in 2008 by P. Shvets and S. Pugachev.
Crimea, Kuba-Kaya. "9 March" Route, 4A
Kuba-Kaya, via the right part of the tower to the top of Koba-Kaya Central, "9 March", 4A, (P. Shvets — S. Pugachev, 2008) Total length — 300 m Of which:
- IV-V category — 120 m
- A1 — 6 m The route was climbed as a "reconnaissance" and is unlikely to be repeated. There are 3 logical and beautiful options to ascend the Central tower, all not below 5B, and only the right part of it promised some relief. We chose the simplest option between the hangings of the lower belt and climbed. Within the first 30 m, we found holes for skyhooks and a drilled hole with a Chinese construction anchor as a sleeve (very fresh). Apparently, it was for rappelling, because further up, until the summit, we didn't encounter any more pitons. Further on, avoiding unnecessary adventures and bypassing all the steep but short walls, we approached the Central tower, chose the simplest of the three options — the left gap — and climbed it. Soon it turned out that it wasn't that simple to conquer in that short spring day. For environmental reasons, graffiti like "Kisa and Osya were here" are currently not in vogue, so we limited ourselves to a minimally harmful (but very useful for descent) drilled hole. The sun promised an early sunset, so we decided to ascend to the summit via the simplest route, i.e., via the right part of the tower and the western ridge. We found rocks of 4-5 category difficulty, местами разрушенные, but overall very pleasant and picturesque. To cap off the day, we were gifted a fantastic view when:
- the sea was shrouded in a pink mist all the way to the horizon,
Route Description: Марсала
Description of the "Marsala" route, category 5B difficulty level, to the top of Kuba Kaya in Crimea, technically challenging and involving crack protection and climbing.
Crimea, Kuba Kaya. "Marsala" Route, 5B
Kuba Kaya, along the left edge of the tower v. Kuba Kaya Tsentralnaya, 5B, (S. Pugachev — P. Shvets, 2008)
The technically challenging part of the route follows a pronounced, sometimes overhanging internal corner in the left part of the Central tower. Mainly, it's A1–A2 level aid climbing, with the upper 30 meters being IV-V category climbing.
The length of this part of the route is 100 m. 4 pitons were left behind - at 12 m, 35 m, 45 m, and 70 m.
It wasn't possible to fully commit and feel some kind of extreme; everything was calm and reliable.
If you "connect" the upper part with the lower part of the "9 Marta" route, you get a full-fledged Crimean 5B.
Crimea, Kuba Kaya. "Marsala" Route, 5B
Crimea, Kuba Kaya. "Marsala" Route, 5B
Route Description: Право на лево
Description of the "Pravo na levo" (Right to Left) route 5B VI A2 on Kuba-Kaya, 405 m long, taking 6-8 hours, with a detailed description of sections and technical difficulties.
Kuba-Kaya — 1. “Right to Left”
Difficulty: 5B VI A2 Authors: A. Lavrinenko, P. Shvets
Year of creation: 2009 Number of pitches: 11 Length: 405 m Time to complete: 6–8 hours Route description: The route goes to the left of the center of the wall along a series of internal corners, bypassing large cornices on the upper part of the wall from the left.
The approach to the route is to the left of the lower bastion, through the forest for about 100 meters.
R0–R1: 55 m Start on a grey slab, direction towards the trees, then on easy rocks to a large grassy terrace. 10 m V; 45 m II
R1–R4: Along an inclined grassy terrace upwards to the right to a belt of rocks. 100 m easy
R2–R3: 30 m. Upwards on uncomplicated rocks to a group of trees. Belay station on a large juniper. II
R3–R4: 45 m. From the juniper upwards, through a slightly overhanging 10-meter wall onto a ledge, then climbing upwards to the right to a large juniper.
- 10 m VIA2
Route Description: Одесса 09
Description of the rock climbing route "Odessa 09" of 5B category of complexity on the Kuba-Kaya massif, with a length of 395 meters, consisting of 7 pitches.
Kuba — Kaya — 2. «Odessa 09»
Massif: Kuba — Kaya (662 m) Complexity: 5B VI A2 Author: Lavrinenko A., Tsushko T.,
Kuzmenko Kolya Number of sections: 7 Length: 395 m Route description: The route
passes to the left of the center of the wall along a series of internal corners, bypassing large
cornices on the left in the upper part of the wall. Approach to the route is to the left of the lower bastion, through
the forest for about 100 meters.
R0–R1: 55 m. Start along a gray slab, direction towards the trees, then along simple
rocks to a large grassy terrace.
10 m V; 45 m II