Maly Kilse-Burun - 10, Kolya-Tolya route (variant) 3B, F5b (5 m 6a), 160 m

In the mountains - alpinist routes of Crimea

The route has several passage options. One of them is given below.

From the upper road, first follow the trail leading to the Kiev couloir*, and then straight up the scree slope to the wall. Ascend to a rocky ledge under the central part of the wall.

• Kiev couloir — a couloir separating the Zamok and Maly Kilse peaks.

Along inclined rocks in the right part of the wall, approach a cleft that leads to a ledge with strawberry trees. Belay station on a bolt with the inscription "8 марта" (March 8th).

R0–R1: II/III, 30 m

• To the right along the ledge, approach the chimney
• Up the chimney to a small ledge with a small tree (15 m, 5B)

Standard variation: from the chimney, traverse 5 m to the right along the slab to the beginning of the cleft, then up the cleft

• From the ledge, climb straight up the chimney, through a small overhang (5 m, 6A)

• Then you can:

  • Continue up the chimney to a tree on a large ledge (problem with organizing belays)
  • or, after 2 m, traverse left to the bolt of the "8 марта" route, and, bypassing a small destroyed cornice on the right, reach the same ledge to a large pine tree

R1–R2: 5b/6a/4c, 40 m

From the pine tree, move right along the ledge, then climb up simple rocks to a ridge with a dried-up juniper. From the juniper, climb up simple rocks, initially to the right and up, then to the left and up to the top of the ridge.

R2–R4: II, 90 m

Then, along the ridge, reach the yayla.