Phantom, 6А, А2, 6Б. A. Maksimenia. January, March 2008

First, about the motivation. After looking at photos with threads on Bolshaya Kilse Burun and finding a lot of free space for a new route, we decided that it was a good reason!

The name appeared during the January ascent, when an old bolt was discovered near a good crack. This somewhat confused us and became the reason for the March ascent via a slightly altered line: on the lower yellow bastion - via a modified route, on the upper one - with our own pitch.

The route is located above the forester's house (Romanovsky's). The approach to the start of the route from the house takes 2 hours.

R0–R1 Up the crumbling rocks, aiming to approach the right part of the yellow bastion. Insurance is difficult. Anchors will help.

Used one bolt of the yellow submarine (on the shelf, with a yellow loop). There is an intermediate hook. Driven deep, under the cord.

Station on the first big tree.

Section 50 m, 5c, A0.

R1–R2 Further, via simple rocks (3rd category of difficulty), exit to a large shelf.

Station on a tree at the edge of the shelf.

Section 30 m.

2–3 From the tree upwards through a small overhang (there is a hook) via climbing. First, deviating a bit to the right, then to the left. There is an intermediate hook under the cord.

Equipment:

• Anchors
• Hooks
• Nuts
• Friends

We arrive at the same station as in the first variant. Section 30 m, 6Б.

3–4 From the station to the left. Further upwards through the overhang.

Equipment:

• Bolts
• Anchors
• Hooks
• Nuts
• Friends

Station behind the rock's bend, on a flattening. There is a spit + big anchor. Section 30 m, A2.

4–5 From the station to the right upwards diagonally through a small tree. There is an intermediate hook. Station on the tree. Section 60 m, 5c, A1.

If the rope is 50 m:

• The station can be made on a big tree before exiting to the shelf.

5–6 We approach the upper bastion on foot. The landmark for the start is a big thorny bush. Behind it.

6–7 Further upwards in the direction of the dry tree. We don't climb to the tree, it remains on the right. Station at the base of the inner corner. There is a hook + our own. Section 55 m, 5c, A1.

7–8 First upwards to the shelf. To the end of the shelf to the left to the overhanging inner corner. Further up the corner. There is an intermediate bolt. Station on the second bolt + our own. Section 40 m, A2.

8-9

From the station upwards, then to the right to the shelf. From the shelf upwards to the summit!

Section 50 m, A2. There is an intermediate bolt.

Climbed the last rope under the rain streams on the i.t.o. I think it's possible to climb.

Made a station on the intermediate bolt because I ran out of metal and wanted to get dressed!

The route was liked for its logic. A lot of climbing, i.t.o. on good cracks!

In one word - You'll like it!

And let's not change the tradition! For the second ascenders - a bottle of condy from the author!