Merdven-Kaya­sy — 6B «Ek­spromt»

Massif: Merdven-Kaya­sy (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 5B Author: A. Geni­ush, Kudryav­tsev Year of creation: 2008 Number of pitches: 7 Length: 300 m Time to complete: 4–6 hours

Route description: Long, logical, classic route. From the "Chertova lest­nitsa" (Devil's Staircase) along the upper road approximately 1 km east, then along the dirt road to the parking area, then along the trail to the wall. The start of the route is from a large pine tree.

R0-1 60 m. Start from the tree to the right 3 m, then up the slab to a weakly expressed depression and further to the left up the corner overgrown with grass, exit to a tree. Then slightly left and up — approach to the internal corner. Further along the internal corner, exit to the top of a spall. Belay station. There is a bolt.

Characteristics:

• 45 m III
• 10 m V+
• 5 m IV

R1-2 40 m. From the station to the left traverse in the direction of the internal corner. Then along the corner exit to the top of a spall with a good ledge. Station on the spall on personal anchors. V

R2­–­R3 40 m. Then the key pitch — movement directly up 20 m, then along the internal corner, slightly to the right and exit to a ledge in front of a gentle slab, which is a weakly expressed spall. Station to the right of a bush on personal anchors.

• 20 m VIA1
• 20 m V

R3­–­R4 30 m. Along the internal corner 15 m to the exit to a terrace. Then to the right up to 2 trees, on them a station. III

R4­–­R5 60 m.

• To the right along the ledge 5 m
• Then up along the internal corner, exit to a large terrace
• Along the terrace on foot in the direction of a large corner of the chimney

Station on personal anchors at the base of the chimney. 5 m easy; 30 m V­–; 25 m easy

R5­–­R6 30 m. From the station to the left and up along the left part of the chimney, station immediately above a large plug in the chimney, on a ledge with a tree.

Station on anchors and cams.

V

R6­–­R7 40 m. From the station up along the chimney, the chimney is complex in the lower part, belay options are limited, after 15 meters it becomes easier. Then along the chimney — couloir, exit to the yayla.

• 15 m V+
• 25 m III+