Merdven-Kayas — 17. "Lanzheron"
Massif: Merdven-Kayas (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 4B A2 Authors: Lavrinenko A., Kuzmenko A. Year of creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 6 Length: 220 m Duration: 4–6 hours Route description: The route goes along the left edge of the S wall, through a system of inner corners, via a through grotto to the summit.
The approach to the route is from a small abandoned quarry, up to the right, bypassing the lower rocky bastion, then along a talus couloir for about 200 m, with two short 5-meter wall climbs, and then along a grassy-talus slope to the base of the wall. Under the wall, proceed to its leftmost part.
R0–R1, 45 m
- Up the wall, then along the inner corner
- Up and left to a gap leading to a small pine tree
- From it, left along a ledge and up to some pine trees
- At the upper pine tree is the belay station
IV
R1–R2 50 m From the station, up to the right, along the inner corner. At the upper part, exit the corner to a pine tree, from it up to the right to the 2nd pine tree. From the pine tree, traverse left, return to the corner, and up the corner to a more gentle slope; belay station at a tree. IV+
R2–R3 30 m From the station, up to the left, to the left inner corner; up the corner to an inclined grassy ledge. Up the ledge, to the base of the right inner corner. Belay station on a bolt and a piton. 20 m III, 10 m easy
R3–R4 30 m
Up the inner corner, overgrown with grass, through a small overhang, to a deciduous tree.
(At the start of the corner, it is impossible to arrange protection; careful friction climbing is required)
Belay station at the tree and personal anchors. V A1
R4–R5 30 m
From the station, up, under an overhang, through a grotto, to the right side of the corner, then to the left side and up to a tree; belay station at the tree. IV
R5–R6 35 m
- Up, bypassing the tree on the left, to a small ledge
- Traverse right along the ledge
- Then up to the right, bypassing overhangs, to the summit
15 m II; 10 m V + A1; 10 m IV