Author: Yuri Kruglov, Sevastopol

"Bezzavetny" Route, Merdven-Kayas. Description

Recommend as a training route for trad climbing to all students of the "Category of Difficulty" school — approximately HVS/F5c.

Caution: being under the start of the route while a team is climbing is dangerous. There are still loose rocks there. About five more ascents are needed to finally clear this section.

R1–R2

Cross the internal corner from right to left, exit onto the rocky ridge and continue up the ridge. Midway through the section, near a tree, you'll see an old steel cable — remnants of equipped loops for top-rope climbing on the Hergiani rock. The section's length is 70 m. Difficulty — IV category. A beautiful rope. In places, the ridge narrows to a meter and is climbed on friction. The R2 belay is on a small ledge with a tree. Directly below you, you can see the "Category of Difficulty" camp.

This section is a continuation of the crux. The crack in this section was filled with grass, stones, and earth. Everything has been cleared as we went. In general, a section like R4–R5–R6 can't be found on any route in Crimea. An excellent trad crack in a monolith, with big rock protection. A second ascent will help assess the difficulty of the section more accurately.