Merdven-Kayasa — 18. “May 9”
Massif: Merdven-Kayasa (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 5A VI A2 Author: Lavrinenko A., Kuz'menko A. Year of creation: 2009 Number of pitches: 6 Length: 220 m Duration: 4–6 hours Route description: The route starts on the left part of the S wall, transitions to the right part of the wall at the top, and leads to the very summit, to the triangulator. There are destroyed sections.
Approach to the route — from a small abandoned quarry:
- up to the right, bypassing the lower rocky bastion,
- further along the talus couloir (about 200 m),
- in 2–3 places it is necessary to overcome short walls about 5 m,
- along the grassy-talus slope, approach the wall. Under the wall, go left. The starting point is a large tree 15 m above the ground.
R0–R1 40 m: Up to the tree, from it to the left upwards, along an inclined internal corner to the next tree. III
R1–R2 30 m
- Up to the left, along an inclined internal corner
- Then along a vertical fissure (large hexes and cams) exit to the top of the fragment
- Move left to the station on the bollards
20 m IV; 10 m VIA1
R2–R3 20 m.
- From the station upwards along a destroyed internal corner, to the overhang
- Pendulum 5 m to the left
- Further along destroyed blocky rocks, upwards to the left, exit to a large tree
10 m IV; 10 m IV
R3–R4, 50 m. First up, then up to the right, along an inclined internal corner, exit to an inclined shelf with trees. Station on the upper one. III
R4–R5, 45 m. Upwards along the system of cracks in the direction of the tree. Rocks are partially destroyed. Station on the tree. 10 m IV; 35 m V+A1
R5–R6, 40 m. From the tree upwards, rocks are heavily destroyed, exit to the next tree. Further up to the right, along a series of internal corners, exit to a shelf. From the shelf, move to the right, to the tree. Station.
- 30 m V+A2
- 10 m IV
R6–R7 50 m. From the tree upwards along the system of internal corners, exit to a horizontal ridge, along the ridge to the summit.
- 30 m IV+
- 10 m III
- 10 m I