Merdvеn-Kayasy — 14. “Present”
Massif: Merdvеn-Kayasy (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 4Б V A1 Author: Lavrinenko A., Tsushko T. Year of creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 5 Length: 225 m Time to ascend: 4–6 hours Route description: The approach begins from the place where a dirt road leads to Khergiani rock. Follow the path upwards, bearing right, bypassing Khergiani rock, then ascend via a couloir with some simple scrambling to reach a large inclined grassy ledge. Follow the ledge upwards to the left for about 100 meters; the start is slightly above a deciduous tree, via an oblique crack.
R0–R1 40 m Ascend the crack to the left and upwards for 7 meters, then continue upwards through a system of corners and slots; the climbing is steady, and protection is easy to organize.
Equipment:
- medium and large cams
- stoppers
The belay station is near a dry tree; there's a bolt and room for own pitons. IV
R1–R2 50 m From the belay station, move upwards and to the right, surmount a large boulder, then continue upwards into an internal corner, and follow the corner that turns into a chimney; exit onto a steeply inclined grassy ledge. Ascend the ledge to the left towards a large pine tree. Belay station.
Pitches:
- 40 m IV
- 10 m easy
R2–R3 55 m From the belay station, ascend to the left and upwards onto a small ridge; continue upwards through internal corners. Be cautious in the lower part due to loose rocks; the rock becomes more solid further up, but the climbing is challenging; protection includes pitons, stoppers, and large cams. You can establish a belay station on a tree slightly above a large ledge.
Length: 10 m I–II; 30 m V+A1; 15 m IV
R3–R4 50 m From the belay station, move upwards, following cracks to the right of a large internal corner.
Reach the top of a fracture; ascend a slab with cavities upwards and to the left, enter a large corner,
then follow the corner; the belay station is on the right side of the corner, using own pitons. V– R4–R5 30 m
From the belay station, return to the corner, then follow the corner, bypassing an overhanging section on the left; subsequently, move into a more gentle internal corner and exit onto the yayla (alpine meadow). IV+