Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa — Crimea. Merdven-Kayas. First ascents. Results of the first half of 2007.

"Present" Route 4B

Lavrinenko A. Tsushko T. The approach starts from the point where a dirt road goes to the Khergiani rock. Follow the trail upwards, bearing right, bypassing the Khergiani rock, then ascend via a couloir with some easy climbing to reach a large inclined grassy ledge. Follow the ledge upwards to the left for about 100 meters; the start is slightly above a deciduous tree, via an oblique crack.

0–1 40 m 5c — Ascend the crack to the left and upwards for 7 meters, then continue upwards through a system of corners and cracks. The climbing is uniform, and protection is easy to organize (medium and large friends, stoppers). The belay station is near a dry tree; there's a bolt and our own pitons.

1–2 52 m 5c — From the station, move upwards to the right, climb over a large boulder, then continue upwards into an internal corner, and up through the corner transitioning into a chimney (stoppers, pitons) to reach a strongly inclined grassy ledge. Ascend the ledge to the left towards a large pine tree. Belay station.

2–3 54 m 6a A1

From the station:

• move upwards to the left towards a small ridge
• continue upwards through internal corners
• be cautious in the lower part due to "live rocks"
• further, the rock is monolithic, but the climbing is challenging

Protection: pitons, stoppers, large friends.

A belay station can be set up on a tree slightly above the large ledge.

4–5 50 m 6a

From the station:

• move upwards
• ascend through cracks to the right of a large internal corner

reach the top of a fragment, then climb a slab with "shells" upwards to the left, enter a large corner,

continue up the corner. The belay station is on the right side of the corner, using our pitons (we left one piton). Protection — large and medium friends, stoppers.

4–5 30 m 6a

From the station, return to the corner and continue up the corner, bypassing an overhang to the left via a more gentle internal corner to reach the yayla. Protection — medium and large stoppers, pitons.

Pitons are necessary on this route; it's possible to manage with anchors (4–5 pieces). Large friends and hexes (6–10 cm) are useful. It's better to use a 60-meter rope.

Ascent time — 4 hours. Descent via Chertova lestnitsa (Devil's Staircase).