Sokol – 12 y.o.

Ryжий угол (Red corner) 5A cat. diff. #26

R0–R2: 100 m, simple climbing straight up to the right (start as in "Galochka" mt.). R2–R3: 35 m, 5b+. Dangerous rope due to crumbling rock. Belay is relative. Station on a micro-shelf in the corner on a piton and a new bolt. R3–R4: 35 m, 6a+, A2. Difficult, overhanging rope. Protection on pitons and some own (big cams). In the upper part, loose rocks, be careful. Better to move left to a crack. Station on a ledge on bolts. R4–R5: 50 m, 5c. Hard climbing on quite crumbling terrain. Protection is difficult. Station on a half-lying tree on a ledge. R5–R6: 35 m. Easy traverse rightwards along the ledge towards "Galochka". Station on a tree. Then you can go in two ways:

• left through a "gully", towards "Grebnevaya dvojka" and then along it;
• continue rightwards along the ledge till the junction with "Galochka" route.

Equipment:

Rope 50–60 m, nuts, cams (big sizes mandatory), extenders, 1–3 ladders, 14–16 quickdraws, hammer, pitons.

General impressions:

Difficult 5A, requiring the ability to realistically assess the situation and organize belay properly. The skill level of "Pravyj Romb" (Right Rhombus) may be insufficient for this route. Climbing time for an average team is 5–6 hours

Sokol — 10

Two Cornices 5A cat. dif. (A. Shelkhakov — D. Popov, autumn 2000)

R0–R1: 25 m, 5a. Careful climbing on a ruined crack, insurance is not easy to organize. Station on a bolt and own gear (going further is difficult due to friction). R1–R2: 15–20 m, 5a. Slab climbing, insurance on bolts + own. Station on a bush. R2–R3: 25 m, 5b. Slab climbing, own insurance on an overgrown crack (pitons, nuts). Station on a small tree. R3–R4: 40–45 m, 5a. In the direction of a large tree. Insurance is easy to organize. Station on a tree. R4–R5: 15 m, 5B. Traverse on a slab to the left upwards. Station on two bolts. R5–R6: 35–40 m, 5C+. From the station, a couple of meters to the left and then up after a bolt, into a crack. Along it to the end, then up the slab, own insurance, at the end of the slab a bolt leading to the right. Station in a niche on a shelf, to the right of a chimney, on bolts. R6–R7: 20–25 m, 6B+. Return to the base of the chimney (there is a bolt) and then 15 m up. Then to the left wall of the chimney (there is a bolt during the transition), then 7–8 m to the station under an overhang. Station on bolts. R7–R8: 15–20 m, 6B+, A1. Up the crack through an overhang, after exiting to a vertical — move to the right by climbing. Station on a tree.

So­kol — 9

Jap­o­n­sky sa­dik 5A cat. dif. (Yu. Li­sh­ayev)

R0–R1: 40 m, 6a+, A1. In some places natural protection is in destroyed cracks. Station on existing pitons and personal protection gear. Be careful, rocks are destroyed. R1–R2: 35–40 m, 5b. Careful exit to a ledge with trees (so-called "Japanese garden"). Station on one of the trees. R2–R3: 45–50 m, 5b+. Even climbing along the crack, with convenient belay organization. Exit to the station is to the right out of the crack, 6–7 m along the slabs to the ledge. Station on two bolts on the ledge. R3–R4: 45–50 m, 5c+. Even climbing along the crack upwards to the "nashlyapka"

Author: Alexander Lav­rin­en­ko, Odesa

"Total Recall" Route 4B (SE wall)

• Lav­rin­en­ko A.
• Ku­zmen­ko A.
• Na­d­to­chiy S. (December 2006) The idea of the route belongs to "Terrorist", we even tried to accomplish it in January 2006, but were "blown away" by an unusually strong and cold wind. Almost a year later we returned. The route starts about 50 meters to the left of the "Gift Set" route. It's easy to find the beginning - a simple gentle internal corner. R0–R1 55 m 5B

Sokol — 27

«White Triangle» 5B

This is the most popular fifth category route on the Southern wall of Sokol. The route is pitoned perfectly, I recommend bringing:

• 18 quickdraws
• two Shtelnov's cams — first and eighth sizes It is considered that the route's grade is 5B, but, in my opinion, this assessment is somewhat overestimated. The approach is the same as for the "Comma". Having reached the ledge under the wall, move along it to the right till the end. On the way, there is an unpleasant passage, insurance is desirable. The start is under a

Falcon — 18

Author: Sovich Alexey, Kiev. The route description is based on the state as of August 19, 2003. Photos taken with a "Smena-8M" camera. "Fourth between the breasts" route, 4B category A fairly interesting 4B route. It can be a good warm-up before attempting Sokol's 5th category routes. Over the years, the route has changed slightly — it has become a bit more challenging:

• Rockfalls have destroyed several convenient trees.
• Water flows have smoothed out the relief on the second key — the лобке (forehead).
• For various reasons, there are fewer pitons on the route. In my opinion, all these changes have only made the route more mature. I believe the route is even more interesting than "White Triangle" (5A), especially in light of the recent changes. You also need to make your own belay points — there aren't many pitons here. For the route, it's sufficient to have:

Sokol. "Myth" Route 4B (author unknown).

Recommended equipment:

• Rope 60 m
• 14–16 quickdraws
• Set of nuts
• Set of cams (large 2–3 pieces will ease the process)
• Hammer is mandatory
• Pitons — mandatory
• Large slings

Crimea, Sokol mountain. "Ne hAchu" Route

Sokol. "Ne hAchu" Route (S. Nadtochiy — A. Kuzmenko — A. Lavrinenko, November 17, 2006) 4A The last rope pitch poses a serious danger: insurance is organized only by a hollow sound, bollards are hammered "for passage", and in case of a deep fall, there is a risk of tearing off a huge 15 m × 10 m flake on the station. Sokol. Routes:

• Vspomnit vse
• Bolshaya progulka
• Ne hAchu

Sokol peak, "Zvezda" route, 4A (S. Nadtochiy, A. Shelkhakov; January 2008), lower ropes (S. Nadtochiy, E. Burkulai; 2010). General impression of the route:

• Beautiful and challenging 4A, doesn't quite reach 4B due to its relatively short length (only 5 pitches).
• Varied and technically demanding climbing. The route starts 4 meters to the left of the "Ne khochu" route. Approach to the route: see "Zhazhda" route. The "Zvezda" route begins with a crack, to the left of which the route's name is carved. In the upper part of the route, a rock tower (bastion) serves as a landmark, with a star drawn on its right side.

Sokol. The route on the right side of the left breast with exit to "Between the Breasts" 4A (A. Brynza — Kobylsky (Dnepropetrovsk)).

A rather interesting route if you climb from the road without shortening the ropes on the shelf. By taking the "shortcut," the route is not sufficiently loaded with difficulties for 4A; it's more like a heavy 3B — due to its length. Sokol. On the right side of the left breast with exit to "Between the Breasts" 4A

Technical description of the route:

• R0–R1: The first rope coincides with the "Between the Breasts" route. The station coincides.
• R1–R2: 45 m, 5c, insurance is organized easily:
• pitons