Tianshan Mountains

Report on the ascent made by the Primorye Alpinism Federation team to the summit of Slesova (4240 m) via the 6A category route on the right part of the NW wall.

Report on the Ascent of the Primorye Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing Team to the Summit of Slesova (4240 m), A. Klenov's Route via the Right Part of the NW Wall, Variation Russian Championship, Technical Climbing Class, Pamir-Alai, Karavshin, July — August 2013 Climbing Passport Pamir-Alai, Karavshin gorge, 5.4.3 Slesova peak, 4240 m, via the right part of the NW wall Proposed: 6A category, A. Klenov's route, variation Route character: rock climbing Height difference: 830 m Route length: 1220 m Section lengths: V category — 200 m

Report on the ascent made by the Primorye Alpinism Federation team to the Slesova peak (4240 m) via the 6A category route in the Pamir-Alai.

Climbing Report of the Primorye Federation of Alpinism and Mountaineering Team on the Ascent to the Summit of Slesova (4240 m), A. Klenov's Route via the Right Part of the NW Wall, Variation Russian Championship, Technical Climbing Class, Pamir-Alay, Karavshin, July — August 2013 Climbing Passport Pamir-Alay, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3 Slesova peak, 4240 m, via the right part of the NW wall Proposed: 6A category of difficulty, A. Klenov's route, variation Route character: rock climbing Route height difference: 830 m Route length: 1220 m Section lengths: V category of difficulty — 200 m

Description of the ascent route taken by the team, indicating the path taken and comparison with other known routes to the summit.

Route followed by the team — Semiletkin's Route 1993 — Moroz's Route c.c. 1988 Klenov's Route 1993

Ascent to Elbrus peak via the classic route with a glacier, 65 km long with 3000 m elevation gain.

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Description of the route along the North face of Peak 4240 in the spurs of the Turkestan Range, category of complexity 6B, first ascent in 1988.

Passport I. Rock climbing category. Spurs of the Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge. Peak 4240 m, center of the North face. Proposed 6B category of complexity, first ascent. Height difference 830 m, length 968 m length of 6B sections — 583 m, 5B — 267 m average slope of the route — 75°, average slope of the wall section — 81° Driven pitons: rock placement elements bolt ice

Description of a 6B category complexity route to Peak 4240 in the spurs of the Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge, climbed by the Dnipropetrovsk regional sports committee team in 1988.

Passport I. Rock category Spurs of the Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge Peak 4240 via the right part of the N-3 wall Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, second ascent Height difference 940 m, length 1020 m, length of sections with category IV difficulty — 385 m Length of sections with category V difficulty — 370 m Average steepness of the route — 70°, average steepness of the wall section — 80° Pitons hammered:

Ascent to Slesova Peak via Pogorelova route, center of the North wall, 6B category of difficulty.

Pamir-Alay Type — rock. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge (upper reaches of the Karavshin river). Slesova peak via the center of the North face (Pogorelov's route). Category 6B. Height difference — 940 m. Length — 1065 m. Length of sections with category 5–6 difficulty — 960 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 79°. Number of pitons used: rock pitons, drilled holes for skyhooks | 69 | 1+45 * | 268 | 41 |

Description of the passage of a category 6B route on the North face of Peak 4240 (Slesova) in the Turkestan Range of Pamir-Alay.

Passport I. Rock climbing category Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su river gorge Peak 4240 (Slesova) via North wall (Pogorelov's route) 6B complexity category, third ascent Height difference 810 m, length — 986 m. Length of 5–6 cat. diff. sections — 874 m, including 6 cat. diff. sections — 789 m. Average slope of the route — 71°. Average slope of the wall section — 81°. Pitons driven: rock 128/48, chockstones 276/138, bolted 2/2+36

First ascent of the Northwest Wall of Peak 4240 (Slesov), **Turkestan Range**, **Pamir-Alay**, 6th cat. of difficulty, 986 m, 810 m height difference.

I. Class of Rock Climbing Ascent Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su river gorge. Peak 4240 (Slesova) via the North-West face. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent. Height difference: 810 m, route length: 986 m. Section lengths: R5–R6 — 874 m R6 — 789 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 81° (3430–4210 m) Number of pitons used: | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons |

The route to Chimtarga peak via the south-western counterfort through the shoulder of Chimtarga peak, complexity category 4B.

11.1205a-4240 28.0793. 45–45 44 62 39, 34, 37, 35, 32, 31, 30, 29, 28, 26, 27, 25, 241, 23