V. Korona (4th)

4820 m

Report

of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on the ascent to v. Korona (4th) via the western wall and ice gully “5A”, (c)

Ascent Passport:

1. TIAN-SHAN, Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ala-Archa gorge, 7
2. Pik Korona (4th), via the western wall and ice gully.
3. First ascent, proposed 5A category of difficulty.
4. Nature of the route: combined.
5. Height difference of the route — 610 m.

V. Korona (4th)

4820 m

Report

of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on the ascent to v. Korona (4th) via the western wall and ice gully “5A,” (c) Participants: Temerev I.M. Novoseltsev A.V. Tomsk – 2014

Ascent Passport:

1. TIAN-SHAN, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ala-Archa valley, #7
2. Peak Korona (4th), via the western wall and ice gully.
3. First ascent, proposed 5A category of difficulty.
4. Nature of the route: combined.

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai gorge.
2. Peak name: Korona 5th tower 4860 m
3. Route V. Balezin (1996), center of the southwest wall, 6A
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 850 m. Route length: 950 m. Section length:

• V difficulty category 600 m
• VI difficulty category 110 m.

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Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Area 3. Peak, its height, ascent route 4. Proposed difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: 6. Number of pitons for belay and descent organization: 7. Number of travel hours 8. Number of nights and their characteristics first ascent Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ala-Archa tourist center; Ak-Sai glacier cirque. v. Korona (I-st tower),

Route Description

From the foot of the Vrona Glacier, initially move along the talus, then along the right (orographically) side of the glacier in the direction of the saddle between the I and II Towers of Vrona. From the gendarme V. Korona, move in crampons. The bergschrund is passed via a snow bridge in the right part of the glacier. Further, bypass the black gendarme on the right, ending at the saddle with a yellow saw-tooth wall. The exit to the saddle is between the yellow wall and a heavily destroyed gendarme. Ascent up the wall (7 m, 80°) with piton belay, then move along the ridge to the top of the gendarme (belay via protrusions). At the top - control cairn. Further, descend down to the gap between the saw-tooth gendarme and the I Tower of Vrona:

• Descend 8 m to a square ledge;
• From it, descend sportingly (10–12 m, 80°) into the gap. From the gap:
• Ascend right-upwards along a sheer wall (4 m, 90°) - piton belay;
• Further ascent along inclined slabs (60 m, 30°) and exit via ledges to the summit.

Route Ascent to Korona peak, 1st - 2nd towers, 4A cat. diff. B. Gavrilov, '56

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge. 3. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via ice wall, 3rd cat. diff., ice-snow route. 4. Assumed category — (winter), first ascent. 5. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 610 m. Avg. slope — 53° (3450–4050 m). 6. Pitons hammered in: rock 9 placements ·18

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ROUTE DIAGRAM IN SIMVOLDS, 1:5000