Video guide to the Gavrilov's route (4A) on peak Korona by Dima Pavlenko.

One of the most popular routes to the Corona peak crest wall. It starts from the bergschrund, from which there are about 450 meters of even ice to the ridge. On the penultimate rope of the route, there is a small ice ridge, which is a bit more complicated than the main section of the route. The start of the route is 70-100 meters to the right of the https://summitx.info/en/routes/58844837/about route. In the Russian official classification, both these routes are considered variants of the same route.

In autumn 2025, two ice streams formed on the northern wall of Pik Korona. The first ascent of the right stream (rated 5A in the Russian classification) was made by Aleksandr Parfyonov's team in early 2026. The first ascent of the left stream was made by Konstantin Markevich with Aleksey Pototskiy in the second half of March 2026. Further, according to Aleksey:

Last year was very hot in July. And as a result of this circumstance, two new routes formed on the northern wall of Pik Korona. The charm of these routes is that this year or next, such conditions may not happen, and these routes may not exist. But while they are there - we have to climb 😁 And we did. One route was climbed by Parfyonov with a partner in February, and the second one - Kostya Markevich and I last week.

Honest 5B and this is the coolest ice in the area. The icicle itself is 170 m of 87-degree lace cascade ice. And before that, there's another 30 meters of A3 ice climbing. The lower part is 450 m of gentle ice at 55-70 degrees.

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Video guide to the "Мобильных" route (5A) on the first tower of the Crown by Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide for the 3A route to the first tower of the Crown by Dima Pavlenko.

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On the ascent to Peak Korona 2 tower (4810 m) via the right couloir of the N wall (3B category of difficulty, approximately)

Team leader: Akimov V.V. Participants: Filinov V, Museichuk Yu. Bishkek, 2011

Ascent Passport.

1. Ascent region: Tian-Shan.
2. Kyrgyz Ridge.
3. Peak Korona 2 tower (4810 m) via the right couloir of the N wall.
4. Category of difficulty: 3B (approximately)
5. Route characteristics:

V. Korona (4th)

4820 m

Report

of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on the ascent to v. Korona (4th) via the western wall and ice gully “5A”, (c)

Ascent Passport:

1. TIAN-SHAN, Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ala-Archa gorge, 7
2. Pik Korona (4th), via the western wall and ice gully.
3. First ascent, proposed 5A category of difficulty.
4. Nature of the route: combined.
5. Height difference of the route — 610 m.

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Range. 3. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via the ice wall 3 cat. complexity, ice and snow route. 4. Estimated cat. complexity — LA 5– (winter), first ascent. 5. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. complexity — 610 m. Average steepness — 53° (3450–4050 m). 6. Pitons driven: rock 9, chocks 18, ice screws 110 7. Climbing hours: 14.5 hours; days — 2 8. Overnights: 1st in a hut on Uchitel glacier (processing).

Route Description

From the foot of the Vrona Glacier, initially move along the talus, then along the right (orographically) side of the glacier in the direction of the saddle between the I and II Towers of Vrona. From the gendarme V. Korona, move in crampons. The bergschrund is passed via a snow bridge in the right part of the glacier. Further, bypass the black gendarme on the right, ending at the saddle with a yellow saw-tooth wall. The exit to the saddle is between the yellow wall and a heavily destroyed gendarme. Ascent up the wall (7 m, 80°) with piton belay, then move along the ridge to the top of the gendarme (belay via protrusions). At the top - control cairn. Further, descend down to the gap between the saw-tooth gendarme and the I Tower of Vrona:

• Descend 8 m to a square ledge;
• From it, descend sportingly (10–12 m, 80°) into the gap. From the gap:
• Ascend right-upwards along a sheer wall (4 m, 90°) - piton belay;
• Further ascent along inclined slabs (60 m, 30°) and exit via ledges to the summit.

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge. 3. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via ice wall, 3rd cat. diff., ice-snow route. 4. Assumed category — (winter), first ascent. 5. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 610 m. Avg. slope — 53° (3450–4050 m). 6. Pitons hammered in: rock 9 placements ·18