Korona Peak

Peak4,810 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
30

New alpine route: Markevich' cascade

Evgenii LepikhinELEvgenii Lepikhin
16 days ago
Difficulty:5Б / TD
Route type:Mixed
Maximum elevation:
4810 m
Passes through:Korona Peak
Kyrgyzstan → Uchitel glacier and Korona ridge area

In autumn 2025, two ice streams formed on the northern wall of Pik Korona. The first ascent of the right stream (rated 5A in the Russian classification) was made by Aleksandr Parfyonov's team in early 2026. The first ascent of the left stream was made by Konstantin Markevich with Aleksey Pototskiy in the second half of March 2026. Further, according to Aleksey:

Last year was very hot in July. And as a result of this circumstance, two new routes formed on the northern wall of Pik Korona. The charm of these routes is that this year or next, such conditions may not happen, and these routes may not exist. But while they are there - we have to climb 😁 And we did. One route was climbed by Parfyonov with a partner in February, and the second one - Kostya Markevich and I last week.

Honest 5B and this is the coolest ice in the area. The icicle itself is 170 m of 87-degree lace cascade ice. And before that, there's another 30 meters of A3 ice climbing. The lower part is 450 m of gentle ice at 55-70 degrees.

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Work on the route

10

New alpine route: Fedorov

Evgenii LepikhinELEvgenii Lepikhin
2 months ago
Difficulty:4А / D-
Route type:Ice
Maximum elevation:
4810 m
Passes through:Korona Peak
Kyrgyzstan → Uchitel glacier and Korona ridge area

One of the most popular routes to the Corona peak crest wall. It starts from the bergschrund, from which there are about 450 meters of even ice to the ridge. On the penultimate rope of the route, there is a small ice ridge, which is a bit more complicated than the main section of the route. The start of the route is 70-100 meters to the right of the https://summitx.info/en/routes/58844837/about route. In the Russian official classification, both these routes are considered variants of the same route.

21

Video guide to the "Мобильных" route (5A) to the first Korona tower by experienced alpinist Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to the "Мобильных" route (5A) on the first tower of the Crown by Dima Pavlenko.

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Video guide to the 3A route to the first tower of the Crown by experienced alpinist Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide for the 3A route to the first tower of the Crown by Dima Pavlenko.

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Video guide to the Gavrilov's route (4A) on the peak Korona by experienced alpinist Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to the Gavrilov's route (4A) on peak Korona by Dima Pavlenko.

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Route Description: По леднику с запада

Report on the passage of a category 3B route to Peak Korona (3rd) 4700 m via the western glacier in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range of Tian Shan.

p. Korona (3rd) 4700 m

Report

Of the joint team

of Tomsk, Kemerovo regions and St. Petersburg on the ascent to p. Korona (3rd) 4700 m via the western glacier "3B", (sl)

Participants:

Temerev I.M., Suzdaltsev E.E., Kashevnil A.A.

I. Ascent Details

1. General Information
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Route Description: траверс

SummitMateSSummitMate
4 months ago

Climbing Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, a description of the challenging route and key points for mountaineers.

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Route Description: траверс

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Budna Korona from the northwest via the Fomo 1 route.

Fomo 1. Budna Corona from the northwest.

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Route Description: траверс

SummitMateSSummitMate
4 months ago

Ascent to the summit of Koroma (4860 m) via a route of the 2nd category of difficulty.

в.­ Koroma, 4860 m ­ 2, 2, 2 — easy climbing

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Route Description: траверс

Traverse of Uчитель (4527 m) and Еай­че­чекей (4515 m) peaks, difficulty category 2B, first ascent by a group led by M. Pronin on 8.07.84.

  1. Traverse v. Uchitel', 4527 m — v. Kaichechekay, 4515 m, 2B — 7.08.84, Pronin M. — team leader, Timoshenko T., Fyodorov S., Timofeyev A.
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