246. Bashil via the East Ridge

(combined route by B. Simagina, category 3A, fig. 18, 28). The path from the Chegem tourist base (group of 4–8 people) to the lake at the foot of the East Ridge of Bodorku peak is described in route 233. From the lake, turn right and move along the right side of the Western branch (closed crevasses) of the Kulak glacier towards the saddle of the Main Caucasian Range — the Tviber pass, located between the Kulak peak on the left and Bodorku peak on the right, under the latter's rocky ascent. From the glacier, having crossed the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the steep ice-and-snow slope to the scree of the Tviber pass saddle. From Chegem tourist base: 6–9 hours. From the Tviber pass, descend via a scree and then a snowy couloir onto the Lychat glacier, cross it (closed crevasses), bypass the South Ridge of Lychat peak on the left, and reach the Laskhedar glacier. Here, turn right and ascend along the right side of the glacier, bypassing the icefall via the right-bank moraine, to reach the upper plateau. Cross the plateau to approach the saddle of the Laskhedar pass, located between Bashil peak on the left and Laskhedar peak on the right. From the glacier, having crossed the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the ice-and-snow and then scree slope to the left side of the Laskhedar pass saddle. The pass serves as the initial bivouac site. From the Tviber pass — 24 hours. At the Laskhedar pass, turn left and reach the rocks of the East Ridge of Bashil peak. From here, follow the easy, simple, and heavily damaged rocks of the gently sloping, wide 200–250-meter East Ridge to approach the first gendarme. Overcome this gendarme head-on via a 10-meter wall of moderate difficulty ("live" rocks, belay), then descend from it via simple rocks onto a col under the rocky ascent.

Fig. 28

249. Bashil via the Northwest Ridge (I. Kunaev's combined route, category III, fig. 18, 28).

The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the snowy plateau of the Eastern branch of the glacier below the Bashil pass is described in route 247. Here, turn left and, passing the icefall, exit into the Southeast cirque of the Eastern branch of the Lekzyr glacier and approach the right side of the Lekzyr pass. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the snowy slope, and then via simple rocks to the right side of the Lekzyr pass saddle. On the saddle, turn right and exit onto the Northwest ridge of Bashil peak. Along the route:

• Ascend steep rocks to reach the ice-snow slope with rock outcrops
• Along the slope, then via steep simple and occasionally moderately difficult rocks of the long Northwest ridge, reach the first pinnacle
• Descend from the pinnacle to the col
• Further, via steep snowy rocks with short moderately difficult walls (piton protection), ascend to the summit tower
• Via moderately difficult rocks ("live" stones, piton protection) of the first, then the second wall, ascend to the summit of Bashil From the Lekzyr pass, 5-6 hours.

BA­SHIL Fig. 28

247. Bashil via the South Ridge

(combined route by B. Delone, 3A category of difficulty, Fig. 18, 28). From the Ullutau alpine camp (a group of 4–8 people) along the trail on the left bank of the Adyrsu River, ascend the gorge to "Mestia bivouac". 2–3 hours from the alpine camp. From "Mestia bivouac":

• exit to the tongue of the Adyrsu glacier via the left-bank moraine,
• cross it to the right and exit onto the talus of the rocky outcrop,
• go around the outcrop from the left,
• ascend along the trail to the "Adyrsu" hut on top of the outcrop. 3–4 hours from the "Ullutau" alpine camp. Descend from the hut to the Adyrsu glacier. Ascend along it, then up a steep 60–70-meter ice-snow slope

Fig. 28

July 28, 1981 To the Judging Committee for the Caucasus Alpine Championship among alpine camps and tourist clubs. Copy: To the Classification Committee of the USSR Alpine Federation.

Conclusion

On the ascent of the "Bashil" peak by the team from the "Ullutau" alpine camp as part of the 1st Caucasus Alpine Camps Championship 1981.

1. The route of the first ascent to the "Bashil" peak via the south wall was completed by the team in accordance with the Alpine Competition Rules and the Championship Regulations.
2. The route corresponds to the claimed route and matches the one marked on the photograph in the application.
3. The name of the route in the application — "Bashil" via the center of the south wall — should be changed as follows: — "Bashil" via the right part of the bastion of the south wall.
4. Team composition: according to the application, the following team members started the route:

Appendix I

Ascent Record

I. Ascent class — rock: 2. Ascent region — Main Caucasus Range and its spurs from Chipperazau pass to Orotokara peak. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Bashil peak, 4257 m, 4800 m via the south face. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m. 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m. 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m 6B pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. final 69, 18 bolted, 3 ice. 7. Number of walking hours — 26 (excluding descent). 8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 2, semi-reclining, in a tent. 9. Surname, name, patronymic of participants and their qualification: Merlis Viktor Petrovich — MSMK, leader

Passport

I. Category — technical. 2. Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Chipperaza pass to Ortokara peak. 3. Bashil peak, 4257 m, center of the South wall bastion. 4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty first ascent. 5. Height difference: 800 m. Length: 1050 m. Length of 5–6 category of difficulty sections: 215 m. Average steepness of main sections: 73° (3510 m–3980 m). Including 6 category of difficulty — 40 m (3580 m–3900 m), 93°. 6. Pitons driven:

$ 3700 $