246. Bashil via the East Ridge

(combined route by B. Simagina, category 3A, fig. 18, 28). The path from the Chegem tourist base (group of 4–8 people) to the lake at the foot of the East Ridge of Bodorku peak is described in route 233. From the lake, turn right and move along the right side of the Western branch (closed crevasses) of the Kulak glacier towards the saddle of the Main Caucasian Range — the Tviber pass, located between the Kulak peak on the left and Bodorku peak on the right, under the latter's rocky ascent. From the glacier, having crossed the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the steep ice-and-snow slope to the scree of the Tviber pass saddle.

From Chegem tourist base: 6–9 hours.

From the Tviber pass, descend via a scree and then a snowy couloir onto the Lychat glacier, cross it (closed crevasses), bypass the South Ridge of Lychat peak on the left, and reach the Laskhedar glacier. Here, turn right and ascend along the right side of the glacier, bypassing the icefall via the right-bank moraine, to reach the upper plateau. Cross the plateau to approach the saddle of the Laskhedar pass, located between Bashil peak on the left and Laskhedar peak on the right. From the glacier, having crossed the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the ice-and-snow and then scree slope to the left side of the Laskhedar pass saddle. The pass serves as the initial bivouac site. From the Tviber pass — 24 hours.

At the Laskhedar pass, turn left and reach the rocks of the East Ridge of Bashil peak. From here, follow the easy, simple, and heavily damaged rocks of the gently sloping, wide 200–250-meter East Ridge to approach the first gendarme. Overcome this gendarme head-on via a 10-meter wall of moderate difficulty ("live" rocks, belay), then descend from it via simple rocks onto a col under the rocky ascent.

From the col, ascend the 20–25-meter damaged rocks of moderate difficulty of the ascent (hook belay) to the ridge. Follow the simple 120–150-meter ridge, then along the boundary between snow and damaged rocks, and further along the steep ice-and-snow (cornices) 150-meter East Ridge to approach the second gendarme. Overcome this gendarme via 25–30-meter rocks of moderate difficulty at the center of the ascent (key point of the route, "live" rocks, hook belay).

From the gendarme, descend to a col and follow the gently sloping, snowy 60–80-meter East Ridge to ascend to the summit of Bashil. From the Laskhedar pass — 4–5 hours.

Sources

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