Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area: "in accordance with KTMVG" Caucasus, from Chipperazau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Bashil — 4257 m, via the center of the West Face.
4. Expected difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 780 m, average steepness 70°. Section lengths: 1st diff. cat. — 0, 2nd diff. cat. — 0, 3rd diff. cat. — 70 m, 4th diff. cat. — 415 m, 5th diff. cat. — 300 m, 6th diff. cat. — 80 m.
6. Pitons driven: | For belaying | For creating artificial holds | | :----------: | :---------------------------: | | Rock — 83 | 37 |

8. Gaw­wa

$ 3700 $

Passport

I. Category — technical. 2. Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Chipperaza pass to Ortokara peak. 3. Bashil peak, 4257 m, center of the South wall bastion. 4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty first ascent. 5. Height difference: 800 m. Length: 1050 m. Length of 5–6 category of difficulty sections: 215 m. Average steepness of main sections: 73° (3510 m–3980 m). Including 6 category of difficulty — 40 m (3580 m–3900 m), 93°. 6. Pitons driven:

Appendix I

Ascent Record

I. Ascent class — rock: 2. Ascent region — Main Caucasus Range and its spurs from Chipperazau pass to Orotokara peak. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Bashil peak, 4257 m, 4800 m via the south face. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m. 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m. 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m 6B pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. final 69, 18 bolted, 3 ice. 7. Number of walking hours — 26 (excluding descent). 8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 2, semi-reclining, in a tent. 9. Surname, name, patronymic of participants and their qualification: Merlis Viktor Petrovich — MSMK, leader

July 28, 1981 To the Judging Committee for the Caucasus Alpine Championship among alpine camps and tourist clubs. Copy: To the Classification Committee of the USSR Alpine Federation.

Conclusion

On the ascent of the "Bashil" peak by the team from the "Ullutau" alpine camp as part of the 1st Caucasus Alpine Camps Championship 1981.

1. The route of the first ascent to the "Bashil" peak via the south wall was completed by the team in accordance with the Alpine Competition Rules and the Championship Regulations.
2. The route corresponds to the claimed route and matches the one marked on the photograph in the application.
3. The name of the route in the application — "Bashil" via the center of the south wall — should be changed as follows: — "Bashil" via the right part of the bastion of the south wall.
4. Team composition: according to the application, the following team members started the route:

Fig. 28

247. Bashil via the South Ridge

(combined route by B. Delone, 3A category of difficulty, Fig. 18, 28). From the Ullutau alpine camp (a group of 4–8 people) along the trail on the left bank of the Adyrsu River, ascend the gorge to "Mestia bivouac". 2–3 hours from the alpine camp. From "Mestia bivouac":

• exit to the tongue of the Adyrsu glacier via the left-bank moraine,
• cross it to the right and exit onto the talus of the rocky outcrop,
• go around the outcrop from the left,
• ascend along the trail to the "Adyrsu" hut on top of the outcrop. 3–4 hours from the "Ullutau" alpine camp. Descend from the hut to the Adyrsu glacier. Ascend along it, then up a steep 60–70-meter ice-snow slope

BA­SHIL Fig. 28

249. Bashil via the Northwest Ridge (I. Kunaev's combined route, category III, fig. 18, 28).

The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the snowy plateau of the Eastern branch of the glacier below the Bashil pass is described in route 247. Here, turn left and, passing the icefall, exit into the Southeast cirque of the Eastern branch of the Lekzyr glacier and approach the right side of the Lekzyr pass. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the snowy slope, and then via simple rocks to the right side of the Lekzyr pass saddle. On the saddle, turn right and exit onto the Northwest ridge of Bashil peak. Along the route:

• Ascend steep rocks to reach the ice-snow slope with rock outcrops
• Along the slope, then via steep simple and occasionally moderately difficult rocks of the long Northwest ridge, reach the first pinnacle
• Descend from the pinnacle to the col
• Further, via steep snowy rocks with short moderately difficult walls (piton protection), ascend to the summit tower
• Via moderately difficult rocks ("live" stones, piton protection) of the first, then the second wall, ascend to the summit of Bashil From the Lekzyr pass, 5-6 hours.