247. Bashil via the South Ridge
(combined route by B. Delone, 3A category of difficulty, Fig. 18, 28). From the Ullutau alpine camp (a group of 4–8 people) along the trail on the left bank of the Adyrsu River, ascend the gorge to "Mestia bivouac". 2–3 hours from the alpine camp.
From "Mestia bivouac":
- exit to the tongue of the Adyrsu glacier via the left-bank moraine,
- cross it to the right and exit onto the talus of the rocky outcrop,
- go around the outcrop from the left,
- ascend along the trail to the "Adyrsu" hut on top of the outcrop.
3–4 hours from the "Ullutau" alpine camp.
Descend from the hut to the Adyrsu glacier. Ascend along it, then up a steep 60–70-meter ice-snow slope to the plateau along the right side of the rocks.
After crossing the plateau and a steep 50-meter ascent between rocky outcrops, turn right and traverse the snowfields and slopes of the Adyrsu glacier. Cross two wide crevasses via snow bridges and exit onto the snow plateau of the Mestia Pass. A cairn is located on the right on the rocks of the Ullutau massif. 2 hours 30 minutes from the hut.
From the pass, keeping to the right side of the Mestia plateau and bypassing the icefall, descend to the areas on the moraine under the southern slopes of the Ullutau Eastern peak — "Moraine of Lekzyr". From here, cross the Eastern branch of the Lekzyr glacier (closed crevasses) and approach the saddle of the Bashil Pass, located between the peaks of Bashil on the left and Tot on the right. From the glacier, ascend a simple ice-snow slope to the Bashil Pass.
From the Bashil Pass, descend along an ice-snow slope to the Zapadny Lashkhedar glacier and along it, bypassing the icefall from the left via rocks, descend to the moraine of the Dzinnal glacier.
From here:
- ascend along the left side of the Lashkhedar glacier to the exit onto its upper plateau under the wide saddle of the South Ridge connecting the peaks of Bashil and Bashil South.
Set up the initial bivouac on the plateau or lower moraine. 5–6 hours from the Bashil Pass.
From the Lashkhedar glacier plateau, cross the randkluft and ascend the snow-covered simple, местами moderate difficulty rocks on the eastern slope of the South Ridge of Bashil peak for 300–400 m ("live" rocks, belay) to the right side of the saddle under the ascent of the South Ridge. 1.5–2 hours from the glacier.
On the saddle, turn right and ascend steep simple and moderate difficulty rocks of the wide South Ridge ascent (belay).
From the ascent:
- traverse the simple, with short moderate difficulty walls, rocky narrow and gentle long South Ridge to the Big Gendarme;
- ascend the 20-meter wall of moderate difficulty (key point of the route, piton belay) to the Gendarme;
- behind the Gendarme, traverse simple snow-covered rocks of the long South Ridge to the summit of Bashil.
5–6 hours from the saddle.