TRAVERSE V. NIKOLAEVA

NIKOLAEVA PEAK KHITSAN MAMISON TSEY-CHANCHAKHI PASS CHANCHAKHI TSEY-TBILISSKI PASS BUBIS TSEY-KARAUGOMSKI PASS

V. Bubis — Chanchakhi, traverse, 4B cat. dif.

CHANCHAKHI PASS TSEY-CHANCHAHI PASS TSEY — "LILA" Tbilisi BUBIS SOUTHEAST RIDGE EAST SHOULDER DOME Bol. Zh.

21. BUBIS — CHANCHAKHI, traverse (combined route, cat. 4B)

Ascent to the summit of Bubis via the normal route (cat. 2B) from the Tsey-Raug pass. Descent from the summit of Bubis along the southeastern snowy ridge to the saddle below the summit of Tbiliza-Mta. Ascent up a new slope (40–45°) to the summit of Tbiliza-Mta. Descent from the summit of Tbiliza-Mta initially along a gentle (30°) snowy ridge, then down an ice and firn slope (120 m, 70°, piton belay!) to the ridge before a large "gendarme". Bypass the large "gendarme" from the left (in the direction of travel) from the north along a steep (60°) firn slope, followed by an ascent (50 m) onto the ridge. Bypass all encountered "gendarmes" from the right (in the direction of travel) and along a heavily damaged rocky ridge to the Tsey–Tbiliza pass. From the pass, ascend to the summit of Chanchakhi via the normal route (cat. 4B). Descent from the summit of Chanchakhi to the Tsey–Tbiliza pass via the normal route (cat. 4B). When traversing the summit of Chanchakhi in full, the category of the Bubis—Chanchakhi traverse is 5A (approximate).

20. Bubis – Songuti, traverse

(combined route, cat. 4B) Ascent to Bubis summit from Tsey–Tbiliski pass via Tbilisa-Mta saddle or by the route of cat. 2B. Descent from Bubis summit to Karaugom pass by the normal route of cat. 2B. From Tsey–Karaugom pass, traverse Double Peak summit (cat. 3B) and the ridge between North Double Peak and Krasnoarmeyets peak via the несложному гребню (easy ridge) of Krasnoarmeyets peak. Descent from Krasnoarmeyets peak by the normal route of cat. 2A and further ascent to Krasnoarmeyets peak by the normal route of cat. 2B. From Krasnoarmeyets peak via an easy rocky ridge to Uilpata-tau peak. From Uilpata-tau peak, descend to Vorobyevsky pass by the route of cat. 4A. From Vorobyevsky pass, ascend to Songuti by the normal route of cat. 4A. Descent from Songuti summit by the ascent route to "Volginskaya nochovka" (by the normal route of cat. 4A).

Traverse Bubis – Songuti, category 4B Bubis, Double Peak (South, North), Krasnoflotets, Krasnoarmeets, 1 2, Tsей-Karaugomsky pass. TsDSA, Uilpatinsky pass, Uilpata, Songuti pass, Songuti.

Fig. 29 127. Bubis (4428 m) via West Ridge (mixed route by A. Gvalia, category III difficulty, Fig. 29). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West Ridge of the Bivouac Peak or on the plateau below the West Ridge of Bubis is described in route 83. From the initial bivouac (closed crevasses), approach the left side of the base of the West Ridge of Bubis via the snowy plateau. From the plateau:

• Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge (protection);
• Ascend the snowy slope to the West Ridge of Bubis. Turn left here. Initially, follow the snowy ridge upwards, then proceed along a simple, not steep, snow-covered rocky 300-350-meter West Ridge. Further, 100-120 m along the increasingly steeper ice-and-snow West Ridge, transitioning into a steep icy slope (piton protection), and exit onto the rocks. From here, follow simple, ruined, and steep slabs, veering right, to the exit onto a rocky ledge on the right side of the rocky ascent (protection). Traverse along the ledge on the right side of the West Ridge ascent to a vertical internal corner at its end.

Fig. 29 124. Bubis (4428 m) via the Southeast Ridge (combined route by B. Simagin, category 3B difficulty, Fig. 29). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey Glacier under the slopes of Bubis peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, ascend the snowy plateau of the glacier to approach the right side of the Tsey-Tbilisi Pass between Bubis peak on the right and Chanckakhi peak on the left. On the plateau, overcome the bergschrund via an avalanche gully, and ascend (possible avalanches and rockfall - piton belay) straight up the steep ice-snow slope. Then, ascend steep, broken, but straightforward rocks (key belay) to reach the Tsey-Tbilisi Pass. The path to the Tsey-Tbilisi Pass from the Shovi resort:

• From Shovi resort, ascend a forest trail to the right slopes of the narrow canyon of the Bubis River.
• Follow the trail high above the river to approach the point where Bubis River sharply turns left and the Tbilisi River flows into it.
• Descend to the Tbilisi River.
• Proceed a short distance upstream along the right bank.

Fig. 29 125. Bubis (4428 m) via the North-Eastern slope (ice and snow route, category 2B, fig. 29). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83. From the bivouac (closed crevices) approach the middle of the north-eastern ice and snow slope of Bubis along the glacier. From the glacier, overcoming the bergschrund using a snow bridge, ascend the occasionally steep ice and snow slope (many open and closed crevices) between two groups of ice falls located to the left and right of the middle part of the slope, in the direction of the saddle of the massif between the summit of Bubis on the right and a snow dome on the left - until reaching the main ridge of the summit. Depending on the condition of the slope, it is possible to ascend to the main ridge of the summit to the left of the snow dome. On the south-eastern ridge of the summit, turn right and ascend along a simple, gently sloping, wide, occasionally narrow, long ice and snow ridge (cornices), then along simple, ruined rocks to the summit of Bubis. Duration:

• From the initial bivouac on the plateau: 4-6 hours. Descent is via the ascent route. Features: