Fig. 29
- Bubis (4428 m) via West Ridge (mixed route by A. Gvalia, category III difficulty, Fig. 29).
The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West Ridge of the Bivouac Peak or on the plateau below the West Ridge of Bubis is described in route 83.
From the initial bivouac (closed crevasses), approach the left side of the base of the West Ridge of Bubis via the snowy plateau.
From the plateau:
- Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge (protection);
- Ascend the snowy slope to the West Ridge of Bubis.
Turn left here. Initially, follow the snowy ridge upwards, then proceed along a simple, not steep, snow-covered rocky 300-350-meter West Ridge. Further, 100-120 m along the increasingly steeper ice-and-snow West Ridge, transitioning into a steep icy slope (piton protection), and exit onto the rocks.
From here, follow simple, ruined, and steep slabs, veering right, to the exit onto a rocky ledge on the right side of the rocky ascent (protection). Traverse along the ledge on the right side of the West Ridge ascent to a vertical internal corner at its end.
Via rocks of medium difficulty on the left side of the internal corner (key point of the route - piton protection):
- Ascend 30-40 m to a platform on the rocky ascent of the West Ridge.
From the platform:
- 30-40 m upwards along simple snow-covered rocks of the West Ridge (protection).
- Then, ascend 200 m (piton protection) along a steep ice-and-snow slope to the summit ridge.
Follow the gentle snowy ridge to a rocky outcrop. After crossing a horizontal 40-50-meter snowy ridge (cornice), transition to a second rocky outcrop. Beyond it, after traversing a third rocky outcrop along the snowy ridge, exit onto simple rocks to the summit of Bubis. 8-10 hours from the Karaugom plateau.
Descend via the Northeast slope or the North Ridge-slope (see routes 125, 126). Route duration: 3 days.
Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.