| R26 | May 25 120° | 5145 | | R24 | 24 m | 4925 | | R23 | 23 m | 4925 | | R23 | 23 m | 4925 | | R21 | 24 m | 4925 | | R21 | 24 m | 4925 | | R20 | 23 m | 4925 | | R18 | May 23 | 4625 | | R16 | 20 | 4925 | | R15 | 20 | 4925 |

Report

On the first ascent of Peak Koshtan-Tau via the Southwest Ridge wall, done in 1971 for the USSR Championship in the category of technically complex ascents

Kuibyshev, 1971

Alpine Characteristics of the Region

The Bezengi region is the true center of the Central Caucasus. It is home to almost all of its five-thousanders (except for the extinct volcanoes Elbrus and Kazbek). The region has a very complex geological structure, was uplifted during the last Quaternary phases of the Alpine four-axle Fogenesis and is one of the most interesting regions in terms of alpinism. The intense glaciation from the north, the steepness of the rock walls from the south, and the vast extent of possible paths from any side attract groups of qualified climbers. The climate of this region is harsh, which is explained not only by the large elevation compared to other Caucasus regions but also by the location of the surrounding ridges. The unsettled weather here is the result of:

• the penetration of air flows from the south;
• abundant local evaporation;

47. Koshtantau via the East Ridge - Category 5B (B. Garf, G. Vedennikov, G. Karavaev, and V. Kizel - August 22, 1948; Fig. 16, 17). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the "Trud" bivouac in the Dumala gorge is described in route 18. From the "Trud" bivouac:

• Head to the upper plateau of the Ullu-Auz glacier, keeping to the left of the Northeast ridge of Koshtantau, and then to the second glacier icefall leading to the Ullu-Auz pass.
• Ascend the center of the second icefall or closer to the slope of the Koshtan-krest ridge (ice avalanches are possible from the ridge!).
• At the top of the icefall, move left onto the snowy slope of the Koshtan-krest ridge (dangerous!), ascend it, then move right to reach the upper plateau of the Ullu-Auz glacier.
• Follow the plateau, keeping to its left side, and ascend to the Ullu-Auz pass via snowy slopes. Time:
• From "Trud" bivouac to the upper plateau - 4-5 hours.
• To the pass - 5-6 hours.

43. Koshtantau via the Southwest Ridge — Cat. 5B (I. Galustov, A. Korchagin; K. Sizov, I. Smirnov, N. Shalaev, and V. Yakushkin — July 27, 1955; Fig. 13). From the fork of the Dykhsu and Karasu gorges, ascend via a poorly-defined trail on the left bank of the Dykhsu River to the Green Glade below the Dykhsu Glacier. From the fork — 3.5–4 hr. Further:

• From the glade, ascend via the left-bank moraine of the Dykhsu Glacier.
• After 500–600 m, cross onto the glacier.
• Via the central moraine of the Dykhsu Glacier, reach the confluence with the

4577 m October 11, 1962 4262 m 4550 m October 11, 1962 ▲2 3850 m October 10, 1962

Ascent of Koshtan-Tau via the Southeast Ridge with descent along the North Ridge

Accomplished by the MGS DSO "Trud" team under the leadership of MS USSR A. Naumov. Tikhonov Peak Koshtan-Tau from the south (from the Spartak Pass)

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

The Koshtan-Tau massif, with a height of 5151 m, is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Main Caucasian Range, and together with the peaks:

• Dykh-Tau,
• Mizhirgi,
• Krumkol,

August 8 August 6 August 2

Dedicated to the 40th anniversary of the Communist Party of Ukraine

Report on the Traverse of Koshtan-Tau Massif

Kiev Regional Council DSO "Avangard"

Table 1

Composition of the Assault Group

2. Traverse of Koshtan-Tau Massif

On August 2, the group led by Master of Sports of the USSR Fomenko Ya. A. returned from the northern ridge of Koshtan-Tau, while another group led by Master of Sports Ovcharov V. V., having made a supply drop of equipment and food under the wall of Koshtan-Tau, returned to base camp No. 4. Ovcharov's group did not process the wall due to lack of visibility; the wall was shrouded in fog. On August 3, Fomenko Ya. A. and Kashin I. A. reconnoitered the lower part of the wall.

Climbing Passport

• Climbing area: Central Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Krumkol glacier gorge. Section number according to KMGV: 2.5
• Peak: Koshtantau 5151 m, via the Southwest slope.
• Difficulty category: 4B, 3rd ascent *.
• Route type: ice and snow.
• Height difference: approximately 1400 m.
• Route length: approximately 2 km, including 50 m of ice sections with a steepness of 50–55°, 500 m with a steepness of 40–45°; 750 m of snow and ice sections with a steepness of 30–40°.
• Number of pitons used (during ascent): ice screws - 39.
• Number of climbing hours to the summit - 16, reaching the summit on the second day of ascent (11:00), descent via the ascent route - 11 hours.
• Number of bivouacs - 2 (1 on the ascent route and 1 on the descent, at the same location).

36. Koshtantau via the North Counterforce — Cat. 4B (E. Mikhalskiy, E. Varteresevich, T. Lukaitis and E. Khrobak — August 20, 1964, V. Klimashin, Yu. Zhemchuzhnikov, E. Karchevskiy, A. Klopova, E. Nikonov and V. Shataev — June 29, 1965, Fig. II). The route from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the initial bivouac on the Southern ridge of the Utug crag is described in route 18. From the bivouac:

• Descend to the glacier above the third step of the icefall
• Move up and to the right along the glacier towards the base of the Western ridge of the Kunduum-Mizhyrgi peak
• Pass the fourth step of the icefall 10–50 m to the right of the ridge
• Bypass individual crevasses in the upper part of the icefall to the right
• Exit left onto the upper plateau of the glacier
• Move up the plateau towards the left side of the North counterforce of Koshtantau
• Ascend 120 m up the snowy slope