Shalbuzdag

Peak4,142 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent route description to the summit of East Shalbuzdag (4060 m), the 2nd tower, via the 2B category of difficulty route with a detailed description of the path and photographs.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: rock climbing
  2. Ascent area: 2.96 mountains of Dagestan
  3. Peak: its height, ascent route, and character:
    • Shalbuzdag East (4060 m), 2nd tower from the south
  4. Proposed complexity category: 2B
  5. Route characteristics:
    • elevation gain — 400 m, average steepness — 45°, section lengths:
    • category I — 340 m, category II — 95 m, category III — 70 m, category IV — 10 m.
  6. Pitons hammered:
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### Ascent Route to the 3rd Tower of Shalbuzdag East, Category 2B #### Route Overview and Recommendations for Climbers A detailed description of the ascent route to the 3rd tower of Shalbuzdag East, categorized as 2B in complexity. The route characteristics and recommendations are provided for experienced alpinists looking to tackle this challenging climb.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock climbing
  2. Ascent area — 2.9 Eastern Caucasus
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Eastern Shambuzdag, 3rd tower (4060 m) from the south
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B No. 48105, May 22, 1979
  5. Route characteristics:
    • elevation gain — 560 m
    • average steepness — 55°–60°
    • length of sections: R1 — 600 m, R2 — 15 m, R3 — 20 m, R4 — 15 m, R5 — 30 m, R6 — 7 m, R7 — 40 m, R8 — 7 m, R9 — 5 m
  6. Pitons driven:
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Description of the route to the 4th tower of Shalbuzdag Mt. (4020 m) via D-W buttress, category 4, in Dagestan, climbed by a group of alpinists in 1989.

  1. Climbing category — rock climbing
  2. Climbing area — 2.10., Dagestan mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
  3. Peak, its height, climbing route, its character — Shalbuzdag East, 4th tower, 4020 m, via the SE buttress.
  4. Estimated category complexity — 3A
  5. Route description — Height difference 400 m, section length 10 m, average steepness — 45°.
  6. Pitons used — rock, ice, bolted 6/0, 0/0, 0/0; placed nuts 6/0
  7. Number of climbing hours — 4
  8. Number of nights — No overnight stay
  9. Leader's full name, participants and their qualification — Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich, 1st sports category; Mammaev Sulayban Nurmagomedovich, 2nd sports category; Krasnopolsky Yuri Vasilyevich, Candidate for Master of Sports
  10. Team coach —
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Ascent of Shalbuzdag West (4105 m) via East Ridge, first ascent, grade 2.9a.

2.9А.43

WESTERN SHALBUZDAG (4105 m) VIA EASTERN RIDGE 3B TO TUR (FIRST ASCENT) ASCENT DETAILS

  1. Ascent category: combined
  2. Ascent area: 2–9 East Caucasus
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Western Shalbuzdag, approx. 4105 m, from the south to the col and via the Eastern ridge
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B
  5. Route characteristics:
    • elevation gain: 900 m
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First ascent of Shalbuzdag Northeast Peak (3500 m) via the right bastion gully on the south face, March 3-4, 1998, category 5A.

Ascent Passport

  1. Winter ascent class.
  2. Region 2.10 mountains of Dagestan, Chekhychay gorge, Shalbuzdag ridge.
  3. Shalbuzdag North-Eastern, 3500 m, via the gap in the right bastion of the South wall.
  4. 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference: route — 230 m, wall — 210 m (from 3270 m to 3480 m), average steepness of the wall — 70°, route length 506 m, wall section 246 m, section lengths:
    • 1 — 250 m
    • 2 — 20 m
    • 3 — 38 m
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First ascent of Shalbuzdag North-West (4000 m) via the Western wall terrace, category 3B difficulty level, in Dagestan.

I. Category of first ascent. 2.2.10. Dagestan Mountains, South Dagestan, Shalbuzdagsky ridge. 3. Shalbuzdag Northwest, 4000 m, via the terrace of the West wall, rock route. 4. Proposed: first ascent, category 3B complexity (first ascent attempt). 5. Route characteristics:

  • Elevation gain: 300 m.
  • Length of sections:
  • 2nd category complexity — 550 m.
  • 3rd category complexity — 200 m.
  • 4th category complexity — 90 m.
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Ascent to the summit of Shalbuzdag (4150 m) via the Eastern couloir, category 1B difficulty, in the Eastern Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class
  2. Ascent area
  3. Peak, its height and ascent route
  4. Proposed difficulty category
  5. Route characteristics:
  6. Number of pitons hammered for belay: rock, ice, bolted
  7. Number of travel hours
  8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics
  9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification
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Ascent to the summit of Shalbuzdag (4122 m) via the South-East Wall, category of difficulty 2B, description of the route, its characteristics and trip details.

  1. Climbing type: rock climbing
  2. Climbing area: #2.9 (Eastern Caucasus)
  3. Peak, its height, and climbing route: Shalbuzdag 4142 m via the southeast wall
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B
  5. Route description: Height difference 500 m, average steepness 45°, length of sections with I difficulty category — 200 m, II category — 330 m, III category — 190 m, IV category — 20 m.
  6. Pitons hammered (for belaying): rock: 15 ice: 0 bolt: 0
  7. Number of walking hours: 8
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Description of a 3A category complexity mountain route to the summit of Shalbuzdag (4142 m) via the Western Ridge in the Eastern Caucasus.

I. The route is combined 2. East Caucasus 2.9. 3. Mt. Shalbuzdag (4142) via the Western ridge. 4. Proposed category of difficulty 3A. 5. Route characteristics a. Height difference: 750 m b. Average steepness of main sections: 40° c. Length: 1340 m. (I category — 580 m; II category — 560 m; III category — 120 m; IV category — 80 m) 6. Pitons driven: - rock: 9

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Description of the 3B category complexity ascent route via the southwest counterforce to the summit of Central Shalbuzdag (4142 m) in the Eastern Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock climbing 2. Ascent area - 2.9 Eastern Caucasus 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route - Central Shalduzdag (4142 m) via the southwest counterfort 4. Proposed difficulty category - 3B, protocol No. 481 dated 22.08.1979 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 642 m average steepness - 50–55°, section lengths: R1–R12, R2–R3, R3–R15, R4–R2, R5–R25, R6–R30, R7–R7, R8–R3, R9–R30, R10–R8, R11–R5, R12–R80, R13–R60 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating I.T.O. rock - 10, ice - 0, bolt - 0 7. Number of travel hours - 8 hours

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