33. Kyukyurtly via the Western shoulder (route category 2B). The path from the village Terskol to the Western shoulder via the Old Krugozor and the Khotyutau pass is described in route 32. From the shoulder, turn left, to the west, and descend gently along a long slope through the snowy fields and slopes of the Western spur of Elbrus, and exit below the ascent to the summit of Kyukyurtly. Climb to the summit along a short, gentle snowy slope. From the shoulder, it takes 1–1.5 hours. Return via the ascent route. Duration of the route: 4 days. Additional equipment:

• 2 ice axes
• 2 pairs of crampons

35. Traverse of Elbrus massif with ascent to Kyukyurtly via South Wall couloir (I. Evseev's 4A category route). The path from Terskol village (group of 4–6 people) to Khotyutau pass is described in route 32. From Khotyutau pass — down scree, then along the trail to Ullukam River, cross the river to the right bank and ascend grassy slopes to the Western ridge adjoining the South-West walls of Kyukyurtly peak. Along scree, then via a simple but steep rocky snow-covered counterfort or to the right of it via a couloir (rockfall!) ascend to the Western ridge. From here, turn right and follow a simple wide ridge with minor ups and downs to reach beneath the South-West walls of

Kjukjurtljü

TECHNICAL CLIMBING CLASS ON THE WESTERN TOWER

Report

USSR ARMED FORCES TEAM TEAM LEADER: MSMA Yevgeny D. Zhizin DEPUTY TEAM LEADER: MSMA Leonid M. Matyushin MEMBERS:

• MSMA Alexander S. Chmykhov

37. Traverse of the Elbrus massif with ascent to Kyukyurtly via the South Face (route by V. Nekrasov, cat. 5B). The path from the Terskol village (group of 4 people) to the Khotyutau pass is described in route 32. From the Khotyutau pass, without descending into the Ullukam mouth, turn right and ascend the rocks of the Khotyutau saddle, then traverse the avalanche-prone glacier descending into the Ullukam mouth. Behind it, exit onto the ridge descending left into the Ullukam mouth between the avalanche-prone glacier and the Ullukam glacier. Along this simple scree ridge, descend to the left lateral moraine of the Ullukam glacier. From the Terskol village, 10–12 hours. Bivouac on the moraine. From the moraine, exit right onto the Ullukam glacier, cross it

Ascent Log

1. Ascent classification — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Elbrus region
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Kjukjurtlu, 4623 m, center of the west wall
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 6B category difficulty
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1020 m. b) length of sections: 5 — 120 m, 6 — 425 m, A-II — 8 m, mixed (У–VI, А+е) — 235 m. c) average steepness — 87°
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

1. Technical climbing category.
2. Region 2.4, Caucasus, from Chiperezau pass to Gumači peak, Elbrus southwest spur.
3. Kyukyurtlyu (Kyukyurtlyu–Kolbashi), 4639 m, point 107, T. Lukashvili route 1981, via the center of the NW wall.
4. Rock route.
5. 6B category of difficulty, seventh ascent.
6. Route characteristics:
   • Route elevation gain — 590 m,
   • Route length — 845 m,
   • Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 310 m,

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category
   • technical
2. Ascent area
   • Caucasus, from Chipperazau pass to Kitlod pass
3. Peak
   • Kyukyurtlyu 4639 m, center of the western wall
4. Proposed category difficulty
   • 6B
5. Route characteristics

Passport

1. Technical category.
2. Central Caucasus, Kykkyurtlyu gorge.
3. Kykkyurtlyu peak, center of NW wall — 4623 m.
4. 6B category route, Lukashvili 1981.
5. Height difference — 860 m, wall section height difference — 580 m, wall section length — 640 m, average steepness of wall section — 87°.
6. Pitons driven: