Route Description

From the Mynzhilki weather station, ascend to Alpingrad. The traverse begins with peak Amangeldy 1B from the West (see description of Amangeldy 1B from the West). After the summit, descend in the eastern direction towards Pionerisky Pass via the 2B category route. From Pionerisky Pass, ascend to peak Pioner via the 1B category route. Then move south towards the summit of Uchitel (see description of the traverse Uchitel - Pioner 3A). From the summit of Uchitel, descend east via the 2A category route to peak Uchitel until the Heroes of Panfilov Pass. Ascend to peak Heroes of Panfilov via the 2B category route along the western ridge (see description). Descend towards Mametova Pass. From Mametova Pass, follow the route to Manshuk Mametova via the northern ridge 3B category until the summit (see description). Descend via the 2A category route from the M. Mametova glacier. Then descend to Alpengrad. Completed by a group led by T. Lebedev in 1999.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants - 6-8 people.
2. Initial bivouac - Alpengrad.

Route Description

The peak named after Manshuk Mametova, a glorious daughter of the Kazakh people and a Hero of the Soviet Union, is located in the main ridge of the Maloalmatinsky spur. To the south of it lies the peak Antikainen, and to the north lies the pass of the same name (3750 m). From the Mynzhilki weather station:

• Cross the Malaya Almatinka river.
• Go around the ancient moraines of the Manshuk Mametova glacier and the western ridge of the Antikainen peak.
• Move along the foot of the ridge, gradually gaining altitude.
• Ascend via the right lateral moraine of the Mayakovsky glacier to the last couloir descending from the southern side of the western ridge of the Antikainen peak. Ascend the couloir to its fork and continue along the right branch (the rocks are crumbling, be careful!). Then, via the talus on the left side of the couloir, reach the junction of the lateral and main ridges. Cross the talus and reach the main ridge. The Antikainen peak rises insignificantly above the ridge and is an acute tower with a cairn (tur) on it. The route continues north along the snowy ridge, which leads to a large gendarme with sheer walls. The gendarme is easily bypassed from the western side via a huge depression. Behind it lies a snow-ice ridge 100–120 m long. Here, one should stay on the western side, as the ridge drops to the east with a wall and cornices, leading to the rocky massif of the Manshuk Mametova peak.

Manshuk Mametova Peak 2A cat. via 3rd slope from Mametova Glacier

Route description. From the Alpengrad site, take the trail to Manshuk-Mametova Glacier. Move along it towards the saddle between Manshuk-Mametova and Antikainen peaks under the ice wall. Organize rope teams after crossing the even part of the glacier. At the beginning of the ascent, the route goes along a snow-ice slope with a steepness of up to 35° (rope protection is set up). Then, traverse left towards the foot of the ice-snow forehead. To overcome the forehead, it is necessary to set up rope protection, sometimes piton belay. Further, navigating through crevices, reach the saddle. When moving in the upper part of the glacier, use piton belay. From the saddle, ascend via a couloir along small scree, then along snow or ice. When moving in the couloir, stick to the left side. In case of ice exposure in its upper part, set up rope protection. The couloir leads to moderate-difficulty rocks. From there, continue to a steep snow patch, the passage of which requires thorough belay and great caution (the massif of the peak drops off towards Manshuk-Mametova Glacier with a 300-meter wall). When ascending with large groups, from the exit from the couloir to the summit, it is necessary to set up rope protection (2 ropes). A cairn with a note is located in the northern part of the summit. Descend via the ascent route. The ascent takes 9-10 hours.

Recommendations:

• 1. Number of participants: 12-14 people.

2. Initial bivouac: Alpengrad.
3. Departure from bivouac at 5:00 AM.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• main rope 2 × 30 m
• rock pitons: 4-5 pcs.
• ice screws: 4-6 pcs.

North­ern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Manshuk Mametova via the North Face

25 category of difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — North­ern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye gorge.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Manshuk Mametova via the north face.
3. Proposed: 2B cat. diff.
4. Character of the route: combined
5. Height difference of the route: 350 m

Description of M. Mametova's route to the summit via the ridge

The approach to the start of the route is via the Mametova glacier, then through the eponymous pass to the Byrdjiga glacier, which is crossed to the left of the icefall. The ascent to the eastern ridge of the summit is made up a snowy slope with a steepness of 40–45°, then over snow lying on an icy base. In the lower section, the group can move simultaneously, but higher up, crampons must be worn and hook belays used. Further, the slope becomes gentler and leads to the first crevasse, which is bypassed on the left. From the first crevasse, there is about 100 m of ascent continuing up the snowy slope (up to 40°). As the ridge is approached, the steepness increases. It is recommended to overcome this section 5–7 m to the left of the snowy crest. Belay via ice axe. The final meters are traversed over a thin layer of snow, in places over pure ice (crampons, hook belay). On the rocky ridge is a control cairn. The path to the first gendarme is not difficult: when traversing the snowy ridge, keep to the left side (snow cornices hang down on the right). The first gendarme consists of solid rocky formations. To ascend it, one must:

• initially go straight up,
• then bypass to the left via ledges,
• then again exit to the left side. Belay via rock outcrops. From the gendarme, the route leads to easy rocks on the ridge, to the second gendarme, which is overcome head-on. In this place, one should be wary of rockfall (be careful!). The movement continues over a snowy slope turning into a sharp snowy crest, up to 15 m long. Belay via ice axe. On the right side, snow cornices overhang. Passing easy rocks, one ascends to the third gendarme, which is taken head-on with hook belay. Here is the second control cairn. Descending from the gendarme leads to a snowy saddle and onto the northern ridge. The exit to the summit is completed over uncomplicated rocks.

Description of Manshuk Mametova Route via the Ridge

To ascend the peak of Manshuk Mametova, it is advisable to organize the initial bivouac on the Alpine camp grounds or slightly higher - on a gravel site. From there, head to the Manshuk Mametova glacier and move along its right side in the direction of the eponymous pass. The ascent to the pass (3750 m), which connects the upper reaches of the Malo-Almatinskoye valley with the middle part of the Leviy Talgar valley, is via a slope with a steepness of up to 40°, along loose scree and snow. From here, the ascent begins along the northern ridge, which is heavily damaged at the beginning. The first and second gendarmes are overcome head-on, the third is bypassed on the left, the fourth is taken head-on, and it has the first control cairn. The approach to the fifth gendarme is through an 8-meter gap along a very sharp ridge (overcome head-on, in a "konkovy" style). It has the second control cairn. Then follows a rock (bypassed on the left along a snowy slope). A heavily damaged rocky ridge and the sixth gendarme (taken head-on). It has the third control point. Further movement is along the ridge, which has a sharp drop of 60–70 m to the foot of the seventh gendarme (up to 60 m high), composed of granite with red hues. It is overcome along the north-eastern wall as follows:

• From the gap, go up to the left
• Traverse the wall to the right, in the direction of the crevices
• Along the crevice, reach a small chimney (insurance is hook-based, 3–4 hooks) From the chimney, ascend to the left along the damaged part of the wall (sometimes icy) along the ridge with a jumble of rocky fragments to the fourth control cairn. Before the main tower, the ridge drops sharply. From here, the key point of the route is visible.

Route Description

From the initial bivouac on the ancient moraine of Manshuk Mametova Glacier Alpengrad — follow the right side of the glacier to the foot of the western counterfort of the summit. The route begins with overcoming an ice slope up to 100 m long and 45° steepness (running belay, 3 hooks). The first rocky section (up to 40 m) is bypassed on the left through shelves (running belay, 2 hooks and through ledges). The ascent continues up to the right along the left side of the ice-snow couloir with 45° steepness, up to 60 m long. Climb to the ridge of the counterfort. Simultaneous movement is possible on this section. Further, along the left side of the snow-ice couloir, exit under the pre-summit ridge (if ice is exposed in the couloir, step cutting is necessary, belay is running). The next section of the route — up to the right with an exit to the summit ridge and the summit itself. When moving, pay special attention to the large number of "live" rocks. Descent via Mametova Glacier or through Antikainen summit.