I. Climbing classification 2. Climbing area 3. Peak, its height, route taken 4. Estimated category of difficulty 5. Route characteristics 6. Elevation gain 7. Length of sections Total route length 8. Average slope 9. Pitons hammered in:

Brief description of the route approach

From Dugoba a/l, follow the trail to the confluence of the Ak-tash and Ulitor rivers, then continue along the Ulitor river trail to the moraine campsite. Then, follow the trail through two moraine ascents to the campsite under the high rocky ridge. From the campsite, ascend the scree gully to the destroyed black rocks and then rightwards along the scree to the rocky slabs. This is the starting point of the route.

MAIN ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS TABLE

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent region: Pamir-Alay, Alayskiy ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. SAIV, 4650 m, via the eastern ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m average steepness — 50°, length of sections: 2nd cat. diff. — 500 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 360 m, 4th cat. diff. — 120 m 6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating RPS (Rappel and Intermediate Protection Points): rock — 38, ice — hammer-screw 7. Number of walking hours: 9 hours

2

Teams

SACS “BAKA–Dugoba 2012” on the ascent route to Mt. SAGU via the icy slope of the northern wall of the northwestern ridge "3B", (K)

Leader

Temerev I.M.

Participants

Timofeev D.I., Matveev S.V., Voronezhceva O.A., Alabugin I.V., Tyshkylova N.P., Selezneva S.V., Mukhametzhanov B.M.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, region 5.1.1. Gadjir, Mashalyan, Dugoba, Koyсу, Archakanysh rivers basin (north of the Alay range).
2. Mt. SAGU, icy slope of the Northern wall of the northwestern ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Ascent route: SAGU, 4650 m, via the "per'ya" of the North ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1050 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 720 m, average steepness 68° (up to the ridge)
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating I.T.O.:
   • rock 108

1. The ascent category is technical.
2. The ascent area, ridge - Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. The summit, its height, ascent route - peak SAGU (4650 m), first ascent via the left part of the NW wall and N ridge.
4. The proposed difficulty category is 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 970 m, wall part - 730 m, length - 1446 m, wall part - 796 m, sections of 5-6 difficulty category - 606 m, average steepness of the wall part - 65°
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock: for belaying - 68, for ITO - 8
   • placed protection: for belaying - 154
7. Number of climbing hours - 31.5 (including 10 hours of processing)