96. Tyutyu Eastern peak via the North-Eastern wall (combined route by Ya. Paramuda, category 5A, fig. 5, 10). The path from Tyrnauz (group of 4-5 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyu glacier is described in route 92. From the initial bivouac, cross the glacier and approach the lowest rocks of the North-Eastern wall of Tyutyu Eastern peak. Traverse a steep snowy slope to the right to bypass the base of the counterfort, and without entering a wide ice-snow couloir (avalanche and rockfall hazard), ascend to the rocks of the North-Eastern wall. Ascend via severely damaged, easy to moderately difficult rocks of the North-Eastern wall with three 35-40-meter steep sections up to a platform below a gendarme. Traverse the gendarme for 40 meters along steep, smooth slabs on the left side. Continue 80 meters up via damaged, moderately difficult, and occasionally challenging rocks, followed by a 40-meter ice-snow slope to reach a horizontal snowy ridge. Set up a bivouac on the ridge. The journey from the initial bivouac takes 8-10 hours. Ascend 70-80 meters up a sharp ice-snow ridge (cornice) to below the rocky ascent of the North-Eastern wall. Initially, climb difficult, smooth, steep rocks of a 35-40-meter wall (the key section of the route), then ascend 40 meters up-left towards the Peri gendarmes. From the Peri gendarmes, climb 300-350 meters straight up via icy, steep rocks of above-average and average difficulty to a platform at the base of the North-Eastern ridge. From the platform, ascend via easy to moderately difficult, snowy (cornices) 400-450-meter rocky ridge to the summit of Tyutyu Eastern peak. The journey from the bivouac on the snowy ridge takes 8-10 hours.

Т­Ю­Т­Ю Рис. 10 becomes Т­Ю­Т­Ю Fig. 10

DESCRIPTION Category III, 56. FIRST ASCENTS OF TYUTYU-VASHI VIA THE NORTH FACE On August 8, 1949, the Lokomotiv team consisting of B. Garf (team leader), G. Vedenikov, V. Sher, A. Starostin, and A. Deikin (reserve) set off by car from the Lokomotiv camp to Adyl-Su for an alpine survey of the Tyutyu-Su gorge. The route commission had approved routes on any of the north faces in this gorge: Jailyk, Tyutyu-Bashi, or Sulukol. The choice was to be made on site after preliminary reconnaissance. The Tyutyu-Su River, which flows into the Baksan from the right, 3 km above the Tyrny-Auz settlement, runs through a picturesque and little-explored gorge. Paradoxically, despite the proximity to the road (a 4-hour walk along a good trail from the Tyrny-Auz settlement), the most interesting and difficult ascents in this area have not been made yet. Twice, Honored Master of Sports A.S. Zuzin visited this gorge, but at that time, he was mainly pursuing tourist-research goals and made only a few ascents via easy routes. Thus, the Lokomotiv team had a wide field of activity. The car took us to the last bridge over the Baksan before Tyrny-Auz. Here, we loaded all the expedition gear onto donkeys and set off first upstream along the Baksan (on the right bank) along a dirt road and then, crossing the Tyutyu-Su via a bridge, turned upstream along the deep canyon, following a trail laid along the left bank of the river. After 3 km, we were disappointed:

95. Tytu East via the North Face

(combined route by L. Popov, category 5B, fig. 5, 10). The path from Tyrnyauz (group of 4-5 people) through the Tютюsu gorge to the initial bivouac and at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Tютю glacier is described in route 92. From the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine, cross the Tютю glacier and approach the rocky base of the North Face of Tютю East peak. From the glacier, begin the ascent up the wall along difficult and moderately difficult rocks using an upward-sloping internal corner to the left until reaching scree. From the corner, traverse right along a wide scree shelf through a snow patch along a belt of moderately difficult destroyed rocks to a steep icy rocky couloir (avalanche, rockfall hazard). Along difficult rocks of the vertical wall, 40 m straight up to the left of the icy couloir,

Тютю

Fig. 10

192. Tютю Main via the East Ridge (Category II route).

From the “Dzhailyk” alpine camp (a group of 4–12 people), cross the Kullumkol River via a temporary bridge and ascend along the trail on the left bank to the last large meadow below the terminal moraines of the glaciers in the gorge — the “lower paradise bivouac”. Here, turn left and follow the trail on the grassy slopes, then scree, continually bearing left, to reach the left side of the Zapadny Tютюsu Glacier. Traverse the Zapadny Glacier, staying on its left side (watch out for covered crevasses in the middle section!), to reach the col of the ridge connecting the peaks of the Tютю massif on the left and Dzhailyk on the right. From the “Dzhailyk” alpine camp — 3.5–4 hours. From the upper snow plateau of the Zapadny Tютюsu Glacier, ascend a steep snow slope to the Eastern shoulder of the Eastern ridge of Tютю Eastern peak. Here, turn left and follow a straightforward steep ascent with small rock walls and a 15-meter climb (using ice axe belay!) in the middle section of the Eastern ridge to reach the Eastern peak of the massif. From the Eastern peak, descend a snow slope to a col below the summit ascent. From the col, follow a straightforward gentle rocky ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the left, to ascend to the Main Tютю peak. From the Zapadny Tютюsu Glacier — 3.5–4 hours. Descend via the ascent route.

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Central Caucasus, Tютю Су gorge
3. Mt. Тютю Glavnaya via North Ridge, 4460 m
4. Category 6B (approximate), route by I. Slesov, third ascent
5. Height difference — 1310 m, length — 1675 m. Average steepness of the upper wall section — 77°. Average steepness of the lower section — 65°. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty — 670 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty — 540 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Type | Quantity | | :--------- | :--------- |

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit Vostochnaya Ullu-tau-chana via the northern bastions of the shoulder Category 5B difficulty

2. History of the massif exploration.

The exploration of the Ullu-tau-chana massif began in 1933, when A. Dzaparidze and G. Niguriiani ascended to the Main peak from the Lekzyr glacier off the Mestia pass via a Category 3B route, and to the Western peak from the Garvash pass via a Category 2B route. Before the war, both complete traverses of the massif were made, Category 4B:

• 1937 — L. Nadezhdin and V. Nazarov — from west to east,
• 1938 — A. Zolotarev, F. Kropf, V. Mauer, and V. Nesterov — from east to west; and in 1946 — a first ascent via the "board" to the Western peak with a subsequent traverse of the massif to the east, Category 5A — D. Gudkov, M. Zvezdkin, M. Chertkov, G. Odnoblyudov.

St. Petersburg Climbing Championship 2021 (altitude-technical class) Report on the ascent to Tyutyu West peak (4233 m), via the S wall, I. Khatskevich, 1973, cat. 5A The route was climbed by the team of the Federation of Alpinism of St. Petersburg St. Petersburg 2021

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, from the Gumači peak to the Kitlod pass. Section No. 2.4.1 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks.
2. Tyutyu West peak (4233 m), via the S wall, I. Khatskevich, 1973.
3. Route character – combined.

Tyutyu Seconda Western via the Western Ridge, combined, 2A

Route description:

From Shogentsukov's shoulder, descend to the glacier (closed crevices) and approach the saddle of Kullumkol pass, located under the southern slope of the Western ridge of Tyutyu Western. Here, turn right. Having passed the saddle, via simple, possibly icy scree, reach the Western ridge of Tyutyu Western summit. Turn right here and follow the gentle, wide, possibly snow-covered, easy rock 150-200-meter Western ridge to approach the 1st gendarme. Bypass the gendarme via the destroyed rocks on the right. Further along the gentle, местами со снежными карнизами, Western ridge, approach the 2nd gendarme, which is bypassed on the right via scree. Continue moving along the ridge, and directly along the route, there will be a small stony ascent to the Tyutyu-bashi 1st Zap summit. Here, turn left onto a snowfield and, traversing under the slope of Tyutyu Western, exit onto a steep slope with fine scree. Ascend to the Tyutyu-bashi 2nd Western summit via the loose scree turning into simple rocks. © Morozova Irina