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Description of the route to Peak Kosmonavtov, including technical information and photographs of key stages of the ascent.

Fig. 6. Fig. 7. Path to Pik Kosmonavtov

A description of the ascent route to the summit Svobodnaya Korea, located in the mountains of Kabardino-Balkaria, with details of the approach and technical features of the climb.

Fig. 1. Ascent to p. Svobodnaya Korea (general view)

Ascending Elbrus peak via the classic route from the north, route specifics and challenges, preparation, and required skills.

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Description of the ascent route to the summit via a wall with a 500-600 m sheer drop, complexity category 4A, ridge length 150 m.

The ridge is 9-10 m long, traversed astride. Further, a narrow inclined ridge expands to 20 m and is covered with large talus, leading to the summit. The ridge is 150 m long. The summit is a talus-covered area. To the north, a ridge with a steepness of 60° descends. To the east, west, and south, it drops off with walls. The route is classified as a wall climb and is distinguished by strong psychological impacts, as one has to work on a wall with a 500–600 m drop. Descent is via the ascent route. This ascent took 15 hours; 28 ice screws and 21 rock pitons were hammered in. The ascent is rated as 4A category of difficulty.

A description of the ascent route along the eastern wall of the mountain with challenging rock and ice sections, requiring belay organization and piton usage.

The path goes further along the eastern wall with a steepness of 70°. Here is a 20 m long shelf, 10 cm wide, going at an angle of 30°. There are handholds here. 5 pitons are hammered in to pass the shelf. The shelf ends with a narrow crack going upwards with a steepness of 60°, 3 m long. Climb up the crack. Holding onto the crack with hands, we reach a shelf 1 m wide, with a steepness of 30°, covered with fine talus. Here we hammer in a piton. The shelf is 7 m long, it ends with an internal corner with a steepness of 60° and a height of 4 m. Having passed the corner, we reach a large ledge, where we set up a belay. 7 pitons are hammered in on this section, and it takes 1.5 hours to pass. The path further goes above the wall along rocks covered with ice with a steepness of 40°, which end with a snow-ice shelf. The length of this section is 40 m, belaying is organized through ledges. From the shelf, the path leads upwards to the left along a snow-ice wall 3 m long, with a steepness of 50°. The wall leads to an inclined shelf 15-18 m long, covered with flow ice. The passage is made by hammering in rock pitons to the right along the wall. The shelf leads to a pre-summit shoulder. Here, hammering in pitons, we set up a belay. From the ledge to the shoulder, 7 pitons are hammered in, and it takes 2 hours 30 minutes. The ascent to the shoulder is a wall with a steepness of 95°, 8 m long. 2 pitons are hammered in to pass the wall. Here

A description of a challenging alpinist route with ice and rock sections, featuring steep slopes and walls with the use of belay and pitons.

From the foot to the col, there is a snow-ice slope with a lower section of 200 m at an angle of 30–35°, covered in snow. The slope's steepness gradually increases, and in its upper part, it has an angle of 40–45° with no snow. The length of this section is 400 m. 18 ice screws were hammered into the ice section, and it took 4 hours of working time. To the left of the route, there is a wall with a steepness of 80–90°, and beneath it, there is a talus covered in ice. It's impossible to traverse it with crampons. The col consists of two separate gendarmes with cornices that break off to the east. From the col, the path goes north along heavily destroyed and snow-covered slopes with a steepness of 50° and a length of 60 m. The rocks lead to a wall that ends in a ledge. From the ledge, the path goes left along the route into a narrow chimney with a steepness of 80° and a length of 6 m, formed by two smooth ice-covered slabs. Further on, the path leads to a smooth ledge with a steepness of 50°, covered in small talus. The length of the ledge is 7–8 m. Here, we hammer in a piton. In front of us, there is a two-meter wall that leads to a narrow chimney with a length of 10–12 m and a steepness of 60°; 3 pitons were hammered into the chimney. The chimney leads to a bolt, which drops off to the east with a sheer wall. Here, we organize a belay through a protrusion. On this section, 4 pitons were hammered in, and it was traversed in 2 hours.

Ascent route via the south-west wall of Peak Komosomola in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, grade 2B.

PD+ 200 m 50 m

Report on the first ascent of a Category 6A route on the Southwest Face of Corona Peak (4860 m) in Tian Shan.

Report On the first ascent to the peak Korona, 5th Tower, 4860 m, via the right part of the southwest wall, presumably 6A category of difficulty, by the team of "SCA Zelenograd" (Moscow) and "ROO FASO" (Ekaterinburg) from August 26 to August 28, 2013. Ascent Passport Class — Technical. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai valley. Peak Korona, 5th Tower, 4860 m, via the right part of the SW wall. Proposed category of difficulty — 6A. First ascent. Route type — Rock climbing. Route characteristics: | — Height difference of the route | — 725 m |

A new 6A route on the 5th tower of the Crown in Ala-Archa, climbed by a team of two climbers in 3 days using free climbing and aid techniques.

New route on the 5th Tower of Corona in Ala-Archa 6A, 950 m, fr 6c, A2 SW wall of the 5th Tower of Corona with routes. (Glukhovtsev's route is not correctly marked — it goes right in the middle part to the couloir) Few people know that at the end of August, a new route appeared on the SW wall of the 5th Tower of Corona in Ala-Archa. The route was climbed by a team of two: Syzshchikov Anatoly (Yekaterinburg) and Markevich Konstantin («SCA Zelenograd», Moscow). Since the guys are very modest, I'll describe this ascent for them. In winter 2009, Misha Borich and I tried to climb it in a light style, without a platform, bolts, and preliminary processing, but were blown away after 3 days (http://mountain.ru/article/articledisplay1.php?articleid=4401, our attempt). When Tolik went to Archa for gathering, he asked for some interesting route to be suggested. And here is the result. I'll simply relay the information from the report. Ascent passport Class — technical. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, Ak-Sai gorge. Corona peak, 5th Tower, 4860 m, right part of SW wall.

Description of the assault group's route to the summit via the Baylan — Bashy pass, indicating the path and tactics of the ascent.

View of Baylan — Bashy from peak Box (jupiter-11). Base camps .... the path of the assault hauptgroup - UNCLIMBED 47-grade routes no2EbkI