REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF UZUNKOL VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2B, BY THE "SAMARA-PENZA" TEAM, AUGUST 24, 2022

1. Ascent Passport

Trapeziya Peak – 3800 m

Ascent to the Main summit via the wall of the Eastern ridge — category 4A.

Description of the ascent route to the summit

The path from the camp to the upper Trapeziya glacier plateau can be found in the description of category 2A route. Across the plateau to the foot of the Eastern ridge. At the bottom of the snowy slope, cross the bergschrund and continue ascending on snow (55°), 70–80 m, belay! To the base of a 1.5 m rusty streak running through the entire visible massif of rocks left-up-right. Up the rocks (many loose stones!) in the direction of the streak (belay! Pitons!). Along the streak up 140–150 m (pitons!) to an inclined ledge running in the same direction. Along the ledge, 130–140 m to its end (pitons!) at the level of the couloir throat — a control cairn. To the right of the ledge is a couloir — DO NOT ENTER — (stones, avalanches from the pre-summit depression!). From the end of the ledge left-up 180 m (belay! Pitons!) on rocks to a black overhanging wall under the ridge. The wall is a system of snow-ice couloirs separated by steep rocky ridges. Ascent up the rocks “Belay! Very tense climbing! Pitons!”. Behind the wall is an exit to the ridge slabs and along them to a black wet wall on the ridge “control cairn”. Bypass this wall (40 m) to the right along the boundary of rocks and a steep (more than 45°) snow patch and again exit to the snowy ridge (pitons!). Along the steep snowy ridge (80 m, belay!) ascent to the summit. From the base of the Eastern ridge to the summit is 14–16 hours. There are no bivouac sites on the entire route to the summit. Descent from the summit via category 2B route to the bivouac takes 2.5–3 hours. The number of participants in the group is not more than 4 people. Initial bivouac — lake under Trapeziya glacier.

Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• rope — 2 × 40 m;
• expendable cordelette — 10 m;

Ascent Passport.

1. Region — West Caucasus, Uzunkol valley.
2. Peak Trapezia (Main/3743 m/) via East wall
3. Route category — 5B, first ascent
4. Route description: height difference — 450 m average slope 60°, length of sections 5B–6B –350 m
5. Pitons hammered on ascent: rock — 80 (10 left in place)
6. Number of climbing hours — 14 + 4 processing 1978, July 12 — approach to the route I3; July 14 — route processing — I20;

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Uzunkol Valley. Section number in the 1999 classification table - 2.3
2. Trapezia Main via SE wall (3743 m).
3. Proposed 5B category of difficulty. First ascent.
4. Route character - rock.
5. Height difference: from the assault bivouac to the summit: 580 m wall section: 350 m.
6. Length wall section: 430 m.

2. Ascent to the north-west peak from the Morды valley — cat. diff. 2A

From the "Udzunkol" camp along the right bank of the Morды river to the old koshi, cross to the left bank and along the trail to the large moraine of the Dalar glacier. Along the moraine to its middle part, where it flattens. From here to the left-down and further up the slopes to the talus terrace under the NW edge of Trapezia. The bivouac site. From the camp 3.5-4 hours. From the bivouac:

• up steep talus upwards in the direction of the huge chute-couloir;
• to the right of it — along slabs and rocks to the place of its narrowing;
• crossing on snow (belay!) to the left side of the couloir;
• further up along the stepped rocks and shelves from island to island — ascent to a heavily destroyed rocky ridge;
• along it — to the "central" rocky island (belay!). From the island to the rocks straight-up (belay!) to a large smoothed rocky block on the slope under the peak. Exit to it along narrow shelves and short walls (belay! Pitons!), and further along the destroyed rocks to the ridge under the gendarme.

M53. Peak Uzunkol via the Northwest Ridge

(rock route, category 2B difficulty, led by a Czechoslovak team, 1973) From "Uzunkol", follow the right bank of the Myrdy River to the first shepherds' huts. Then, cross two branches of the river and follow the trail to a large clearing, 200 m before the rockfall on the left bank of Myrdy. From here:

• Ascend left-upwards along grassy slopes and overgrown moraine, bypassing the false peak that rises with large sheer walls above the fork of Myrdy — Kichkinekol.
• Continue along grassy slopes and scree to the cirque between the northwest and west ridges of Peak Uzunkol.
• From here, ascend the scree slope, a short snowpatch, and rocks to the depression in the northwest ridge. From "Uzunkol" — 3.5 hours. Then:
• Follow the ridge to the right and, bypassing the first gendarme on the left via a large ledge and slope, overcome the second gendarme "head-on", leaving the rock "finger" below to the right.
• From here, descend on the right side of the ridge to a col to the next small gendarme, which is bypassed on the left via a ledge R0.

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