Report

On the ascent to the summit of Sofia via the northwest slope and west ridge, category 2A complexity, by the team of SAC "Maximum", August 3, 2023.

I. Ascent Passport

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Description

The first ascent of an unnamed peak with the goal of naming it "Столетие освобождения Болгарии" (Bulgaria's Liberation Centennial), via the "islands" from the north and the western ridge, approximately category 3B complexity. From the base camp, follow the trail used by Kislovodsk residents to Sofia Glacier, exiting under the northern slopes of peak Столетие освобождения Болгарии, located east of Sofia peak — 4 hours. The route passes through four rocky "islands" on the northern slope of the ridge connecting these two peaks. Crossing the glacier, we approach the I rocky "island". Before it lies a 5-meter-wide bergschrund, which is overcome by descending onto a snow bridge that leads to the rocks. The ascent begins with a 30-meter wall at 70–75°. Climbing is moderately difficult, with piton protection. After the I rocky island, a 30-meter snow-ice slope at 45–50° leads to the II rocky "island". It is climbed to the left, as the rocks on the right are covered in glaze ice. The rocks are moderately difficult, with piton protection. In some places, there is glaze ice that does not hinder progress. The length of the II rocky island is 70 meters. At the midpoint of the island is the I control cairn! Before exiting onto the snow, there are 20 meters of gentle rocks. Then, a 40-meter snow slope at 40–45° leads to the III rocky "island". The third rocky "island" is climbed straight up. Its length is 100 meters. The rocks are easy. After the III rocky "island", there is about 100 meters of a steep snow slope. In the lower part, the slope is 50°, and in the upper part, it is 55°. This snow slope leads under the IV rocky "island".

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Description

First ascent to v. Sofia via the western ridge, approximately category 3A. From the base camp, follow the left bank of the Sofia River (orographically) until the confluence with the Ak-Airy River. Then, move left and upwards along the left (orographically) bank of the Ak-Airy River to the first belt of "ram's foreheads" - 1 hour of movement. The belt of "ram's foreheads" is bypassed from the right along a small stream. Then, move left across small meadows overgrown with rhododendron. After the meadows, move along the middle talus to the shoulder, beyond which lies the upper part of the Ak-Airy River valley. Here, there is a green, flat clearing with a stream of clear water nearby. A suitable location for the initial bivouac. From the first belt of "ram's foreheads" - 1 hour. From the initial bivouac, move upwards along the Ak-Airy River across talus to the Ak-Airy glacier. The glacier ends in an icefall, which is bypassed from the right across a rocky outcrop. Then, ascend a snowy slope with a steepness of 35-40° - 150-200 m upwards, exiting onto the glacier. From the initial bivouac to the glacier exit - 1 hour of movement.

DESCRIPTION

First ascent to v. Sofia via the eastern slope and ridge, approximately category 2A difficulty. From the base camp, follow the trail used by Kislovodsk climbers to the Sofiyskiy glacier, emerging under the eastern slopes of v. Sofia – 4 hours. The route initially follows a diagonal ledge, from right to left, passing from "sheep's foreheads" to "sheep's foreheads". The approach involves a steep snowy slope with a gradient of 40–45° – 250–300 m, followed by a wide bergschrund. The "sheep's foreheads" are traversed with piton protection – initially 10 m straight up, then 60 m to the left with a gradual gain in height. Climbing is difficult. The group of six spends 2 hours on this section. After reaching the diagonal ledge, move along it to the left towards a couloir descending from the ridge – 45–60 minutes. Movement is with simultaneous protection. The ledge is snow-covered. Before the couloir, turn right at a 90° angle and climb onto a degraded rocky ridge. The rocks are moderately difficult, with movement on a full rope and simultaneous protection. The ridge has many protrusions that can be used for belaying. The ascent along the ridge takes 1 hour, after which you emerge onto a snowy slope with a gradient of 40–45°. This slope is traversed:

• initially 60 m up and to the left,
• then 30 m up and to the right, emerging onto the eastern ridge – 20–30 minutes.

Ascent

1. CLASS OF ASCENT: rock
2. ASCENT AREA: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from the Kardyvach mountain area to Marukh pass.
3. PEAK NAME AND ASCENT ROUTE: peak Velintral, ZIU M., via the right northwest counterfort.
4. ASSUMED CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY: 3B — 3B, 35 m.

• 320 m average steepness
• 550 route length: cat. diff. I 23456 m. no 203208040 no

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ASCENT REPORT

1. Climbing type: rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyvai mountain area to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: VELINGRAD peak, 3110 m, via the central northwest spur.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B category.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 310 m, average steepness — 70°,

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent type: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from the Kardyvach mountain area to Marukh Pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: VELINGRAD PEAK, 3160 m, via the north-eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 1B.
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain: 410 m, average steepness: 30° Route length: