on crampons, then along the gully itself with flow ice for the first thirty meters on the right side — cutting steps. In the upper part, the gully is blocked by a rock wall 6–8 m high. It is also covered with flow ice. Protection is by pitons. Ascent through crevices. After 3–4 m, transition to the boundary of rocks and ice. Above the wall there is a ledge, convenient for belay. Above the gully, the slope is 45–50° steep, covered with ice. It is safer to pass it on the left side to the rocky ridge and traverse to the right upwards, and then move from one rocky section to another. The exit to the ridge itself is blocked by another 12-meter rock wall. Overcome it along inclined shelves. The exit to the ridge takes 2–2.5 hours. Along the ridge, move in the direction of the summit to the southeast. After 100–150 m, easy

Section 8

Route Description

From the foot of the Vrona Glacier, initially move along the talus, then along the right (orographically) side of the glacier in the direction of the saddle between the I and II Towers of Vrona. From the gendarme V. Korona, move in crampons. The bergschrund is passed via a snow bridge in the right part of the glacier. Further, bypass the black gendarme on the right, ending at the saddle with a yellow saw-tooth wall. The exit to the saddle is between the yellow wall and a heavily destroyed gendarme. Ascent up the wall (7 m, 80°) with piton belay, then move along the ridge to the top of the gendarme (belay via protrusions). At the top - control cairn. Further, descend down to the gap between the saw-tooth gendarme and the I Tower of Vrona:

• Descend 8 m to a square ledge;
• From it, descend sportingly (10–12 m, 80°) into the gap. From the gap:
• Ascend right-upwards along a sheer wall (4 m, 90°) - piton belay;
• Further ascent along inclined slabs (60 m, 30°) and exit via ledges to the summit.

PASSPORT

1. Ice and snow ascent category.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range, Aksai spur.
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via north wall couloirs (Barber's route), 4740 m.
4. Proposed category 5B difficulty, second ascent.
5. Height difference — 680 m, length — 865 m. Length of category 5B difficulty — 520 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52° (4060–4660 m), including sections of 51° (4120–4420 m), 52° (4420–4580 m), 59° (4580–4660 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock 1 ice 340

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Tian Shan
3. Peak, its elevations, and ascent route — "Gnom" 3300 m via the right part of the western wall
4. Proposed complexity category — 3B
5. Route characteristics: elevation difference — 600 m average steepness — 60° length of sections — R2 350 m; R3 170 m; R4 70 m; R5 40 m.
6. Pitons driven:

From bivouac 3300 "Майские ночёвки", located on the Manas glacier moraine, entrance on the right side (in the direction of travel) of the glacier - 2 hours walk under the saddle. Ascent to the saddle on a snowy slope 30-35°, between Bokovoy Manas and Manas Glavny. Here you should rope up. Further movement along the Bokovoe ridge, on large-block talus, steepness 30-35°; movement - 1 hour. From the ridge, descend into a 10 m gap, handrails are necessary, protection via ledges, pitons. Further ascent to the summit on talus, here too handrails are recommended.

The approach from the "Майские ночёвки" bivouac. From the campsite, ascend to the North ridge. Further movement is upwards along the ridge, sticking to either the left or the right side. On average, after one hour of walking, two massive gendarmes are encountered (one after another), before which it is necessary to rope up. Then:

• A small saddle
• Control cairn I (landmark - a high finger-shaped rock) Further movement is along the ridge, with a rapid gain in altitude. Against the sky above, a massive gendarme in the form of a trident can be seen, 80-100 meters to the left of the route, which is approached by the Northeast ridge. The approach to the base of the gendarme is via moderately difficult rocks. A small wall, 2-2.5 m high, is tackled directly head-on. Then, the entire massif of the gendarme is traversed from the left along inclined ledges (in the autumn-winter period, these are snow-covered), 10-12 m - a bumpy section, with piton belays. From the inclined slabs, there is an exit onto a sharp rocky outcrop, about 4 m high. There is a small platform for organizing a belay. Then, along the crumbling rocks of the ridge, 15-20 m to the descent point to the base of the snow-ice dome of the summit. The descent is via a rappel dolipher, 10-12 m with a steepness of 70°. There is a possibility to organize a descent with subsequent rope retrieval through a protrusion.

Passport

Protocol No. 12 of November 23, 1996, part 11, 5B.

1. Class: high-altitude technical
2. Region: central Tian-Shan, Meridional'nyy ridge, North Inyl'chek glacier
3. Climbing object: Gruzinskiy Peak via the couloir on the West wall (6400)
4. Complexity category: approximately 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1900 m, length — 2300 m, average steepness — 54°.
6. Number of pitons: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: |

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
2. Peak Shait (4916), via North-Eastern wall (Mogilevtsev's route)
3. 6A category of difficulty
4. Route characteristic: combined
5. Elevation gain: 1100 m; Route length: 1400 m Section lengths:
   • 5 – 251 m
   • 6 – 65 m

Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Pamir-Alay. Koksu gorge.
3. Malenkiy Prints peak (4240 m) via the left part of the Eastern wall (route by Yu. Zadvoryev)
4. Difficulty category — 5B (3rd ascent of the route)
5. Height difference 850 m, length 1100 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 650 m Average steepness of main sections 68° (3650–4200)
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |