Passport
Protocol No. 12 of November 23, 1996, part 11, 5B.
- Class: high-altitude technical
- Region: central Tian-Shan, Meridional'nyy ridge, North Inyl'chek glacier
- Climbing object: Gruzinskiy Peak via the couloir on the West wall (6400)
- Complexity category: approximately 5B
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1900 m, length — 2300 m, average steepness — 54°.
- Number of pitons:
| Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5 | 0 | 0 | 98 |
- Number of climbing hours: 28 h
- Number of nights: 2
- Team captain: Grekov Dmitriy Mikhaylovich MS Team members: Murav'yev Dmitriy Mikhaylovich MS Molotov Andrey Nikolayevich MS Mikhaylov Mikhail Mikhaylovich MS
- Coach: Il'inskiy Ervand Tikhonovich ZMS
- Approach to the route — July 28, 1996 Summit — July 30, 1996 Return — July 31, 1996
- Organization: TsSKA MO RK
1996 Team Route
Climbing Area Map
DISCHARGE. Climbing discharge scheme.
| Rock | Ice | Length | Steepness | Complexity | Section |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5 | 3 | 150 m | 60° | U | R3 |
| 52 | 1000 m | 55° | U | R2 | |
| 46 | 1100 m | 50° | U | R1 | |
 |
Brief Description of the Ascent
July 27, 1996. The team left the base camp and approached the icefall, above which the route begins.
July 28, 1996. Departure at 9:00. Passed the icefall and bergschrund. Started ascending the ice wall. Grekov — Mikhaylov rope team in front. Ice steepness 50°. Ascended using fixed ropes. Covered 22 ropes during the day. Set up a tent on a leveled ice platform at 19:00. Semi-reclined overnight stay.
July 29, 1996. Departure at 9:00. Murav'yev — Molotov rope team in front. Same tactics as yesterday. Steepness 55°. Covered 20 ropes during the day. Set up a bivouac on a hacked ice ridge at 18:00. Semi-reclined overnight stay.
July 30, 1996. Departure at 9:00. Mikhaylov — Grekov in front. Passed a rocky corner and snow-covered rocks. After 4 ropes on the rocks, reached the ridge at 12:10 and continued towards the summit along a wide snowy ridge. The team reached the summit at 14:30. Organized an overnight stay on the ridge.
July 31, 1996. Descent via the ascent route took 8 hours. There were no falls or injuries during the ascent.