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Route Description: с запада
Description of the route of 5A category of difficulty to the summit of Winnie-the-Pooh (5250 m) through the center of the western wall in Pamir, Yazgulyam ridge, made in 1982.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category — technical
- Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
- v. Winnie-the-Pooh (peak 5250 m) via the center of the western wall
- Estimated category of difficulty — 5A, first ascent
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1250 m length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 130 m average steepness — 50°
- Pitons hammered: for belaying: rock (including chocks) — 62
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Description of the ascent route of the Kuibyshev Regional Council team of the "Trud" sports society to the summit, complexity category - high-altitude-technical, duration - 45.5 walking hours.
I. Climbing category
- altitude-technical.
- Climbing region 3. Climbing route with indication of the summit and its height. 4. Climbing characteristics — height difference — 1200 m, average steepness — 63°, length of the most difficult sections — 1010 m. 5. Number of pitons driven
- rock pitons — 117 Ice pitons — 12, bolt pitons — none.
- Number of walking hours — 45.5 hours (plus 9 hours of processing).
Route Description: В стене
Ascent record of Peak 5026 via the Eastern Wall in the North Shugnan Range, category of difficulty 5B.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent region — North Shugnan ridge Bur 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — peak "5026" via the eastern wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1436 m, average steepness — 60 degrees, length of sections — R1 — none, R2 — none; R3 — 620 m, R4 — 690 m, R5 — 325 m, R6 — 35 m. 6. Pitons driven: for belaying for creating R.P. rock 28, ice screw 3
Route Description: СЗ стене через большой жандарм
Ascent record of the 4900 m peak in the South-West Pamir via the North-West wall through the Big Yandarm, category of difficulty 5A.
Ascent Passport
I. Climbing Class: Technical 2. Climbing Region: South-West Pamir, North Shugnan Ridge 3. Peak: height, ascent route p. 4900 m, via North-West wall through Bolshoy Yandarm 4. Proposed Difficulty Category: 5A 5. Route Characteristics: Elevation gain: 1040 m (4900 m — 3860 m), average steepness: 59°, length of sections: I — 460 m, II — 400 m, III — 190 m IV — 218 m, V — 30 m 6. Pitons driven:
Route Description: ц.ентр. кф. В гребня
Ascent of Peak 4971 via the central buttress of the eastern ridge, grade 5A, 750 m elevation gain, 21 walking hours.
- The summit, its height, the ascent route — peak 4971 via the CENTRAL BUTTRESS of the EASTERN RIDGE
- Proposed category of difficulty — 5A
- Characteristics of the route: height difference — 750 m, length of sections of 5–6 cat. diff. — III — 460 m, IV — 500 m, V — 125 m, VI — 20 m, average steepness — 60°
- Pitons hammered in: for belaying: for creating belay anchors | rock | 96 | 6 | | ---------- | -- | - | | ice | - | - | | bolt | - | - |
Route Description: Ю кф
### Climbing Route Description: 3B Category, Lastochka Peak 3100 m, South Face, East Sayan Mountains A detailed breakdown of the ascent route with a complexity category of 3B to Lastochka Peak (3100 m) via the South Face in the East Sayan Mountains, including thorough analysis of sections and belaying arrangements.
Ascent Passport
- Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
- Lastochka peak, 3100 m, via the South wall.
- Proposed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route type — rock climbing.
- Height difference — 350 m, length — 535 m, average steepness — 50°.
- Pitons driven: rock and chock — 28 pcs.
- Team's traveling hours — 8 hours.
- No overnight stays.
- Group: Bersenev Yu.V. 1st sports category, Antonov E.V. CMS, Gerus A.O. 3rd sports category, Nabokikh K.S. 3rd sports category.
Route Description: левому кф. ЮЗ стены
First ascent description for the peak Angarsk (2691 m) via the left counterfort of the southwest wall, complexity category 3B, 700 m height difference, 14 hours of climbing time.
- Climbing category - technical.
- Climbing area, ridge - East Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy.
- Peak, its height, ascent route - p. Angarsk Vostochny, 2691 m, via the left buttress of the 0-3 wall.
- Proposed category complexity - 3B.
- Height difference - 700 m, average steepness - 47°.
- Number of pitons driven - 15 rock pitons.
- Number of climbing hours - 14 hours.
- Number of overnight stays - none.
- Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification: 9.1. Donskoy Konstantin Dmitrievich, 1st sports category - leader.
Route Description: центр. кф. ЮЗ стены
Description of the ascent route to the peak Angarsk Vostochny (2694 m) via the central counterfort of category 3B difficulty level in the Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, Eastern Sayan.
Ascent Log
- Ascent type: technical.
- Ascent area: Eastern Sayan. Tunka Goltsy. Zuun-Khandagai valley.
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Angarsk Vostochny (East) via the central buttress #10.3 of the wall (2691 m).
- Estimated difficulty category: 3B.
- Route characteristics: height difference 400 m, average steepness 45°, length of sections R1–120, R2–80, R3–160, R4–120, R5–120, R6–100, R7–800.
- Pitons driven: 13 for rock protection.
- Total climbing hours – 10 hours.
- Team leaders:
Route Description: В гребню
Description of the ascent route to Varun peak via the eastern ridge in the Tunkin Alps, difficulty category 4A, height difference 800 m, route length 2700 m.
- Class of ascent: technically challenging.
- Area of ascent: Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Alps, Barun-Khandagai gorge.
- Peak: Barun via the eastern ridge.
- Proposed category of difficulty: 4A.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 55°, length of sections: 0–1 — 500 m, 1–2 — 90 m, 2–3 — 120 m, 3–4 — 40 m, 4–5 — 30 m, 5–6 — 200 m, 6–7 — 200 m, 7–8 — 1500 m. Total: — 2700 m.
- Number of pitons hammered for belay: rock — 23, for progression: "slings/cams" — 11.
Route Description: левой части 3 стены плеча Ю гребня
Description of the route with complexity category 5B through the left part of the 3rd wall of the South spur of the Dzhanlychak peak, with a detailed analysis of sections and belay points used.
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge, section 2.4.1.
- Peak Dzhailyk, left part of the 3rd wall of the Yugrebnya shoulder.
- Difficulty category: 5B.
- Route type: rock.
- Height difference — 730 m; route length — 1000 m. Length of sections: 5th diff. cat. — 50 m, 6th diff. cat. — 75 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 85°, entire route — 55°.
- Pitons left on the route: total — 4, including bolted — 1. Pitons used on the route: