86. Karaugom West via the South slope and the East ridge (combined route by M. Anufrikov, 3A category of difficulty, fig. 20, 21). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzanaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West ridge of the Bivouacnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Karaugom plateau and approach (closed crevices) under the southern slope of the wide snow saddle in the middle of the Karaugom massif. From the plateau, reach the bergschrund along the snowy slope. Having overcome it along a snow bridge, ascend 400-500 m along the steep ice-snow slope along the left side of the long rocky spur under the center of the saddle (avalanches and rockfall are possible - piton belay) to the saddle of the massif (cornice). Here, turn left and along the steep 120-150-meter ice-snow slope (cornice - piton belay) of the East ridge, approach under the summit tower. Then, along the 200-250-meter frozen rocks of medium difficulty and the 60-80-meter snowy East ridge, ascend to the summit West Karaugom. From the initial bivouac, it takes 5-7 hours. Descent is done by the ascent route.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Skalisty Range.
3. Peak: Kion-Khokh (3421 m), via the East Ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 2A, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 400 m, total route length — about 2500 m. Average steepness of the route — about 20°.
6. Number of pitons hammered on the route: 4.
7. Number of moving hours/days: 5 hours – 1 day.
8. Overnight stays: none.
9. Leader: Sergey Egorin, Candidate for Master of Sports.

222. Lagai (4124 m) via the Northwest slope (K. Barov's combined route, category 4A). From the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4-8 people), ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Skazdon River. After passing the "Green Hill," climb the moraine that turns left. From the end of the moraine, traverse a wide scree slope to the left to reach a small plateau below the Northwest slopes of Lagai. Set up the initial bivouac on the plateau. The journey from the CSP of the Tsey region takes 4-5 hours. From the plateau (depart at 3:00 due to rockfall risk in the lower section of the route):

• Ascend a steep, potentially snow-covered scree slope in a wide couloir to reach three rock buttresses separated by narrow, steep snow and ice couloirs, to the right of the steep, rugged snow and ice slope of Lagai.
• From here, climb simple to moderately difficult rocks on the middle buttress ("loose rocks"), bypassing gendarmes on the left, to reach a platform on the left saddle.
• An alternative ascent to the saddle is possible via a couloir on the left, but it is more prone to rockfall. The journey from the initial bivouac takes 2-4 hours. From the saddle, ascend rocks of moderate difficulty, then a 200-220-meter snow and ice slope (avalanche and rockfall risk), to reach a col formed by ice falls from the glacier on the left and a rock belt wall on the right. From under the col:
• Climb 120-150 meters to the right and upwards on steep, slab-like, destroyed, and icy rocks of the belt wall, with moderate to above moderate difficulty ("loose rocks" - piton protection);

Fig. 37 182. Ronketti Main (4080 m) via the Western ridge (route is combined, B. Golubev, category III difficulty, Fig. 37). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier below the Tsey-Mamison pass is described in routes 83 and 179. From the bivouac, approach the middle of the Tsey-Mamison pass across the snowy plateau (closed crevasses), where a group of rocks is located. From the plateau, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge and ascend a steep 180-220-meter snow slope to the pass, to the group of rocks (avalanches possible, piton protection). On the pass, turn left and reach the rocks of the Western ridge of Ronketti Main, then:

• Ascend a snow slope or simple, crumbling rocks and ledges on the right side of the Western ridge, bypassing gendarmes via a traverse to the right, and approach the first southern snow couloir.
• Ascend a gentle snow couloir to a saddle behind the gendarmes of the Western ridge, before the rock ascent to the Western tower.
• From the saddle, ascend simple, crumbling rocks of the Western ridge with numerous handholds to the Western tower of Ronketti Main. From the Western tower, descend simple rocks with numerous handholds on the snowy Western ridge (cornice, loose rocks) to a saddle, and from it, ascend to the summit (Central tower) of Ronketti Main. The duration from the initial bivouac on the plateau is 4-5 hours.

Fig. 23 97. Skatikom (4450 m) via the East Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 22, 23). The path from the Tsey region's KSP or from the Dzinaga settlement (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West Ridge of the Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, via the East branch of the Karaugom plateau (closed crevasses), approach the glacial-snow slope of the wide couloir descending from the saddle of the Skatikom's East Ridge. Ascent:

• From the plateau, cross the bergschrund and ascend the left side of the gentle glacial-snow slope towards the saddle.
• Before reaching the saddle, turn left and move up the glacial-snow couloir.
• Then, via simple rocks, reach the East Ridge's connecting ridge, left and above the large East pinnacle.
• On the connecting ridge, turn left and follow the glacial-snow East Ridge (cornices), bypassing small pinnacles on the left, to approach the rocky ascent.

(combined route, category 4B difficulty) The path from the KSP of the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak. From the platforms, approach the Northwestern wall of Songuti peak via the Eastern branch of the Karaugom plateau (beware of hidden crevasses). From the plateau, cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge and ascend a steep 150–200-meter snowslope to rocky outcrops in the direction of the saddle between the summit pinnacles of Songuti (avalanche risk, rock and piton belay). Continue as follows: ascend snow-covered rocky outcrops of medium and above-medium difficulty, alternating with steep snowslopes (rockfall risk — piton belay) to the rocky ascent of the summit pinnacles. From here, ascend a steep, diagonal snowslope of the couloir 200 m up and to the right (piton belay). Then, ascend snow-covered rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty on the wall to the saddle between the pinnacles. Bivouac on the saddle platform. 10–14 hours from the initial bivouac. Continue with the ascent to Songuti peak. Descent via the ascent route or down the Southwestern ridge with rappels.

To the memory of our friends, lost in the mountains...

Report on the First Ascent to the Summit 3593 m, Peak Spasately

Climbing Passport.

1. Caucasus. Tsey Range. Section number in the Classification 2.7.
2. p. 3593 m (Peak Spasately) — via the Southwest Ridge.
3. Proposed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock.
5. Height difference of the route — 400 m. Total route length — about 600 m. Length of sections with 3rd category of difficulty — 20 m. Steepness of key sections — 70°. Average steepness of the route — 30°.
6. Pitons left on the route — none.

Fig. 26 110. Uilpata (4668 m) via the North ridge-slope (route is ice-snow, V. Naumenko, category 4A, Fig. 26). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac at Vorobyovskie nochevki:

• via Uilpatinsky glacier — described in route 99;
• via South and North branches of the Tsey glacier — described in routes 83 and 108. From Vorobyovskie nochevki, turn right (when ascending from the Uilpatinsky glacier) and along Vorobyev glacier, left of the ice falls descending to the Uilpatinsky glacier, approach a steep snow slope with several rocky buttresses. The slope descends from the Songuti pass, connecting the peaks of Songuti on the right and Uilpata on the left. From the glacier, pass through the snow bridge of the bergschrund. Further:
• pass on the left side of the steep, third couloir from Uilpata (possible rockfall);
• ascend simple and moderately difficult, heavily damaged rocks of the steep counterfort (pitched rope);

80. Tepli Main via Southwest by the couloir of the West ridge

The route is combined A. Zyuzina, cat. 3B, fig. 88, 89, 109, 115, 117. Length 700–900 m, time 9–12 h. From Vladikavkaz (group of 2–8 people):

• Take the cable car to the village of Nar.
• Ascend along the dirt road through the Lyia-don river gorge to the village of Liia.
• Continue along the trail, pass the mineral spring, and follow along the left bank of the Lyadon river to a green meadow with a mineral spring. From here:
• Ascend via the moraines to the right onto the Southwestern Tepi Glacier.
• Set up the initial bivouac on the moraine of the glacier or near a small lakelet under the slopes of Komlagat peak.

80. Aylama via the Northeast ridge-slope (ice and snow route, G. Wullea, cat. 4A, fig. 5, 17). From the Aylama camps (camp 44) cross (closed crevasses) the Western branch of the Aylama glacier and, along the snowy slopes on the right side of the Western branch, move towards the Eastern walls of the Aylama summit. Here, turn right and, following the center, bypass numerous crevasses of the heavily crevassed Northwest short steep branch, which flows into the Western branch of the Aylama glacier, and approach the left side of the upper part of the Northeast ridge of the summit (closed crevasses). Then:

• 500–600 m upwards, keeping to the right side of the steep heavily crevassed ice and snow Eastern slope;
• ascend to the Northeast ridge at the point where it turns into the ice and snow slope of the summit dome. From here, ascend 300–350 m up and to the right along the steep ice and snow slope, bypassing ice cliffs and drops (avalanches, ice falls). Below are the ice falls of the North wall! Then turn left and, along the gradually flattening 400–500-meter snow slope (avalanches), reach the summit of Aylama. From the initial bivouac, 6–10 hours. M. Chertkov's group ascended to the Northeast ridge from the Dykhsu glacier. Fig. 17.