Activity Feed
Route Description: траверс
Traverse of Kiik-Bal-Khana and Bezimyanaya peaks in the Ishkashim Range of South-West Pamir, category 2B, combined ridge route.
- Class of traverses
- South-West Pamir, Ishkashimsky Ridge
- Traverse of p. Kiik-Bal-Khana (5100 m) – p. Bezymanaya (5170 m) with ascent to p. Kiik-Bal-Khana via the western ridge, combined ridge route.
- Proposed - category 2B difficulty
- Height difference — from the start of the route to p. Kiik-Bal-Khana — 550 m, from p. Bezymanaya to the end of the descent — 800 m, length of traverse between the peaks — 1100 m, length of sections with category 4 difficulty — 200 m.
- Pitons hammered: Rock 20 — Chocks 40 —
- Number of travel hours — 13.
- Without overnight stays
- Ascent made by a pair:
Description of the ascent route to the summit, including technical information and photographs.
□
Ascent to Jim Corbetta Peak (5350 m) in the Kumaon Himalayas range, route description and technical information.
5350
Route Description: В склону
Account of the first ascent by the Kharkov mountaineering committee team to Peak Mionku via the eastern slope in 1982.
Report
On the First Ascent in Technical Class
OF THE EXPEDITION TEAM FROM THE KHAARKOV MOUNTAINEERING COMMITTEE 15th pass Led by Matyukhina L.G. Route: p. Mionku via the E slope 1982
Map of the Area
Brief Description of the Approach to the Route
Route Description: 3 гребню
Report on the first ascent of Tseppara Peak (5650 m) via the west ridge, made in 1976 by climbers Nekrasov V.L. and Gorodensky V.I.
REPORT
On the ascent to the summit 5650 m «Tespara» via the western ridge
FIRST ASCENT
Team members:
NEKRASOV V.L. GORODETSKII V.I. Team coach: MSМК NEKRASOV V.P. August 26, 1976
I. Geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object
Route Description: ц. кф. СВ стены
Ascent to Mount Everest via the South Col, route description, key points, and features.
10
Н
Route Description: правому 3 кф.
Description of the ascent route to Peak 5300 via the right western counterfort in the Pamir Mountains, category 3A difficulty, height difference 700 m.
Ascent Log
I. Climb category — high-altitude technical. 2. Climbing area — Pamir, Shakhdarin Range. 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route —
- Peak 5300 m via the right western spur.
- Proposed difficulty category — 3A.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, average slope — 4°, length of sections: I 60 m; II 80 m; III 50 m; IV 200 m; V 50 m; VI 300 m; VII 40 m; VIII 300 m; IX 200 m; X 400 m.
- Pitons driven: for belay, for creating belay stations. rock — 9 ice — 0
Route Description: ЮВ кф. Ю гребня
First ascent of Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m) via the southern wall buttress from the Khabarviv-Khach Glacier, category 5B difficulty.
Ascent Log
I. Ascent Class - High-altitude 2. Ascent Area - Pamir, Yazgulem Range 3. Object of Ascent - Peak Revolyutsii - 6974 m, first ascent from the Khabarviv-Khats glacier via the counterfort of the South Face 4. Estimated Difficulty Category - 5B 5. Route Characteristics:
| Height Difference | 1700 m |
|---|---|
| Average Steepness | 45–50° |
| Section Lengths: |
Route Description: левому канту С стены
Description of the ascent route to the 5204 peak via the left edge of the northern wall, difficulty category 5B, with a detailed analysis of the stages and path characteristics.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: technical.
- Ascent area: 10-3 Pamir, North Shugnanskij Ridge.
- Peak, height, ascent route: P. 5204 via the left edge of the northern wall.
- Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
- Route characteristics: elevation difference: 1050 m; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 660 m; average steepness — 70°.
- Number of pitons:
Route Description: СВ кф. ЮВ гребня
Report on the first ascent by the "Gornyak" team to the summit of Svetgar Severny 3510 m via the North-Eastern buttress of the South-Eastern ridge, category 2B difficulty level.
ST. PETERSBURG FEDERATION OF ALPINISM, ROCK CLIMBING AND ICE CLIMBING
Report
On the first ascent of the team a/c "Gorniak" to the peak Severny Svetgar 3510 m
via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge. Presumably 2B cat. diff.
Climbing Passport
- Central Caucasus, Svaneti, section 2.4.1 of the route classifier for mountain peaks
- Svetgar Severny 3510 m. Via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge.
- Proposed 2B cat. diff. first ascent.
- The route is rocky (summer).
- Height difference: 510 m