72

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: ice
2. Climbing area according to KTMGV: Eastern Caucasus (2.9)
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. M. Gadjieva 4073 m, from the glacier along the northern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 600 m, average steepness 30°, length of sections: R1 – 100 m; R2 – 180 m; R3 – 250 m; R4 – 130 m; R5 – 150 m; R6 – 160 m; R7 – 220 m; R8 – 40 m; R9 – 40 m.
6. Number of anchors for belay:

Tfan Glavny via North-East wall Mamedov E.S. East Caucasus 2.11.15 11

Passport

1. Route type — ice and snow
2. East Caucasus, Makhmudchai river gorge
3. Tfan Glavny via North-Eastern wall
4. Claimed category — 3B ice and snow, first ascent
5. Height difference — 690 m, route length — 1230 m

Description of the Ascent of Koryaksky Volcano

Via the South Ridge, Category 3B difficulty

1. General description of the summit and its location. Koryakskaya Sopka is part of the Avachinsky group of volcanoes, located slightly east of the general direction of the Eastern Ridge. Among the Avachinsky group of volcanoes, Koryakskaya Sopka is the highest. Its absolute height above sea level is 3456 m. Koryaksky volcano is considered active. It last erupted in 1957. Currently, its activity is characterized by intense fumarolic activity. Steam and gas escape from a fissure crater located on the western slope, 500 m below the summit. Koryakskaya Sopka is a summit of volcanic origin. Its slopes are composed of loose volcanic rocks: basalt, tuff, and diabase. The snowline rises to a height of 2 thousand meters by August and remains there until the beginning of September. On the northern slopes, snow persists at an altitude of 1300–1600 m. The NE, NW, and N slopes of the sopka are covered with glaciers, which are cut by rocky ridges in a radial direction. At an altitude of about 3000 m, the rocky ridges disappear under the ice armor. At this height, there is a continuous conical closed glacier. Between the ridges, the glacier flows down to a height of 1100–1400 m, giving rise to several tributaries of the Nalychovo River. The western and eastern wings of the glacier end at the top of the South slope in a steep cirque. On the southern side, the foothills represent a terrain heavily dissected by ravines. The ravines run in the directions:

• from north to southeast;
• from north to south and southwest.

The Ganal'skiye Ostryaki ridge is located in the center of the Kamchatka Peninsula, within the overall system of the large Eastern ridge (see area diagram). It is convenient to approach the object of ascent from the city of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky by car with high проходимости (cross-country capability). From the city, take the Milkovskaya highway to the bridge over the Vakhtang Malkinsky river between 145 and 146 km (see map-diagram №2). Turn onto the forest road after the bridge. Along it, 8–9 km along the river in the valley to a large clearing, where the forest road ends. To the left of the road is a passage in the alder bushes - the beginning of the hiking part of the route. Further:

• Follow the trail along the left bank of the valley. Do not turn up to the left.
• The trail leads to a terrace. Along it - to a dry riverbed crossing the trail, to dry forest and bushes.
• Cross to the other bank of the riverbed and ascend along it for 50–70 m.
• Then the trail turns right - follow it to a stream flowing from Yurчик mountain.
• Cross the stream, go along it down for 100–150 m to a terrace above the stream flowing from the Ostряки cirque.
• Follow the trail on the terrace for 800 m to cedars on moraine cushions.

Map of the Area

Description of the ascent to the summit of Kamen via the NORTHERN EDGE, 4A cat. diff.

The Kamen peak is part of the Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes. It is the second highest peak in Kamchatka. Its absolute height above sea level is 4650 m. Kamen is a volcano of volcanic origin. It is the oldest volcano in the Klyuchevskaya group. Its slopes are composed of volcanic rocks: – basalt – diabase. The volcano has a very large glaciation from the foot to the summit. The glaciers flowing from it to the north and northwest flow into the Svetly glacier. From the western side, the icy slopes are largely cut by rocky ridges. To the east of the summit, there is a sheer rock wall (2700 m) down to the Shmidt glacier, see photo 2.

Photo 1. Beginning of section 2. Diagonal rocky couloir, steepness 40–45 °, composed of large debris material. Insurance through ledges. Photo 2. Section 2. Final part of the rocky couloir. Next is the transition to the eastern ridge. Photo 3. Entrance to the ice couloir. Steepness 45–50 degrees. Insurance via rock anchor. Photo 4. Inner corner (sect. 4). Firmly formed rocks, climbing of increased difficulty.

Climbing Route Description

in the Central Pamir region on peak Krasnoarmeitsev (conditional name), peak 4710 m, via the Southwest Counterfort, via route 3A category of difficulty (approximately) by the group of LGS DSO "Spartak" gathering: team leader Razumov Yu.M. — 1st sports category, Vostrova I.A. — 1st sports category, Baybara V.S. — 2nd sports category, Sayfutdinov R.L. — 2nd sports category (Osh city, "Spartak"). 1974

797

Report

JOINT TEAM REPORT OF CS "BUREVESTNIK" AND UE "NUREKGESSTROY" ON THE ASCENT OF PIK OGPU 6028 m VIA THE CENTER OF NAMESTOVSKY, 1966, AND STEPANOV, 1968, ROUTES. High-Altitude Technical Class Team Captain, Candidate for Master of Sport S. Efimov Team Coaches: Honored Master of Sport, Honored Coach of the USSR K. Kuzmin Master of Sport, Senior Instructor A. Belopukhov Nurek, Central Pamir 1972
Kustovsky's route, 1966. Pik OGPU 6028 m. Stepanov's route, 1968. Route to Pik OGPU. Team overnight locations. Observers' tent.

Central Pamir

PIK ROSSII

6878 m

ASCENT REPORT

of the ascent by the team of Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee along the center of the Western wall Team leader, coach Efimov S.B. MS "Burevestnik". Team members:

• Samoylin M.A. MS "Burevestnik"
• Lebedikhin A.V. MS "Burevestnik"
• Vinogradsky E.M. MS "Burevestnik"

Passport

Ascent to the "Bezымянная" peak via the southwest ridge

1. Class of ascent — technical.
2. Area of ascent — Caucasus, Bezengi area, southwest spur of Dykh-Tau (Fig. 1).
3. "Bezымянная" peak 4050 m, in the spur of Dykh-Tau (Fig. 2).
4. Proposed category — 3.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1300 m; b) route length — 900–1100 m of snow-ice slope; c) average steepness — 35–45°.