Along the southeastern wall to the right of the "diamond" (right diamond), 5B (route by P. Denisenko, 1978) *

This is one of the prestigious routes of the Foros Cant. Below is a new version of the route description, prepared by A. Lav­ri­nen­ko. The route goes along the right part of the southeastern wall. From the road at the alpinist camps under Foros Cant, move up and to the left First along the trail, and then along the talus (R0: 150 m, 20–30, uncategorized). On the section R1–R2 — up the slabs to an inclined shelf with a large stump (R1–R2: 30 m, 65°, IV). On the section R2–R3 — first to the right and up along the inner corner to a small tree (30 m, 65°, IV).

2. Time of ascent. Krasnodar cranes to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Agepsta Main, 3261 m, along the north-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3B.
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference — 700 m, average steepness — 45°, length of sections: I — 80 m; II — 520 m; III — 340 m; IV — 55 m; V — none; VI — none.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for descent, etc. rock 21, ice, bolt
7. Number of walking hours — 9 hours.

Description

First ascents on v. Nadezhda via the eastern ridge, approximately category 1B difficulty. From the base camp, follow the left bank of the r. Sofiya (orographically) to its confluence with the r. Ak-Airy. Then, up and to the left, along the left (orographically) bank of the r. Ak-Airy to the first belt of "baраньи лбы" ("sheep's foreheads") — 1 hour of walking. The belt of "baраньи лбы" is bypassed from the right, following a small stream. Then, to the left across small meadows overgrown with rhododendron. The route proceeds up a medium scree slope to a shoulder, beyond which lies the upper part of the Ak-Airy river valley. Here, a green, flat clearing with a nearby stream of clear water makes for a suitable starting bivouac site. From the first belt of "baраньи лбы" — 1 hour. From the starting bivouac, proceed up the valley. The valley levels out after a slight ascent. Ahead, a tongue of a small glacier coming from beneath the Ak-Airy pass comes into view. Cross it in the direction of the southeastern slope of v. Nadezhda. The glacier is gentle, crevasse-free, and open. Traverse the southeastern slope of v. Nadezhda with a gradual ascent towards the first major "gendarme" on the eastern ridge. Rope up before reaching the first gendarme! In rope teams, navigate the scree slopes and inclined ledges, bypassing all gendarmes on the left, and ascend in the direction of the pre-summit gendarme. The gendarme is bypassed on the left up to a couloir (live rocks!!!) that passes between the gendarme and the summit. Up the couloir, straight up for about 60 m, to reach the summit of Nadezhda. From the start of the route to the summit — 1 hour of walking. Descent follows the ascent route.

ASCENT REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO PEAK 3031 (ORLYONOK NORTH-WEST) VIA THE “NORTH-WEST RIDGE” ROUTE, CATEGORY III (ROCK) BY THE TEAM FROM “SAUK-PAY” CLUB (SYKTYVKAR) IN MAY 2018

YEAR OF REPORT: 2018

I. Ascent Passport

Passport

1. CLIMBING CLASS – rock climbing
2. CLIMBING REGION – Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Sofiyskiy Ridge between the upper reaches of the Sofiya and Psysh rivers
3. SUMMIT – peak "Panagyurishte" (proposed by the first ascenders) 3073 m via the 3rd buttress
4. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS – rock climbing on the buttress, height difference – 240 m, average steepness – 45°
5. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY GRADE – 2B
6. PITS DRIVEN – 10 rock anchors for belaying and self-belaying
7. TOTAL CLIMBING TIME – from the start of the route to the summit 3.5 hours
8. NUMBER OF OVERNIGHTS – not required on the route

• CLIMB LEADER: Oleinikov N.P. – Candidate Master of Sports

Peak 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) Route: via the southwestern ridge Difficulty category — 2A category (combined) Leader: A. Sotnikov Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Kara-Jash mountain massif Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) "Via the southwestern ridge 2A category (combined)". At the alpinism competitions "Cup of Victory" by NP "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai'" (class "First ascents") in May 2013. Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic Mountain country: Western Caucasus Gully: Orlenok gully Ridge: Kara-Jash mountain massif Peak: 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) Route: via the southwestern ridge. Difficulty level: 2A category (combined) (approximately) Prepared by: A. Sotnikov, S. Zhuravlev. May, 2013.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: Caucasus, Krasnodar region up to Marukh pass, 2.1
2. Name of the peak: P. 2160 (Fisht massif). Route name: Via the Center of the Western wall of the North shoulder of Fisht peak
3. Proposed: 5B cat. diff., first ascent
4. Route type: Rock
5. Height difference of the route: 590 m (by altimeter) Route length: 700 m Length of sections: 5 cat. diff. – 275 m; 6 cat. diff. – 35 m. Average steepness:
   • main section of the route: 84°

Rostov Region Climbing and Rock Climbing Federation

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Chaget-chat 2963.8 m via the south-eastern ridge presumably category 1B, first ascent

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Caucasus, Arkhyz area, Sofiyskoe valley, section 2.1 of the mountain route classifier.
2. Summit: Chaget-chat (2963.8 m), via the south-eastern ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Elevation gain: 160 m

Route Description

on Mt. Amanauz (Main) via the Northeast Wall, Category 5B difficulty, Bödnik. Western Caucasus from Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass. From Dombay Square, follow the right side of the Amanauz River along the trail to the "ram's foreheads" and through them to the glacier and then to the "Conical Moraine" of the Amanauz Glacier. Campsite. Route passage:

• From the conical moraine to the second step of the glacier, which is traversed from the left.
• Ascend through the steep middle part of the icefall in the direction of Pravda Peak.
• Upon reaching the level of the lower part of Dvuzyubka's wall, traverse right for 300–400 m under the wall.
• Return to the initial campsite. From Dombay Square — 4–5 hours.

REPORT

On the ascent to the summit of Amanauz Glavny via the Eastern wall (Dvuzubka, the control and test route by Kavunenko, category 5B) carried out by the instructors at "Alibek" alpine camp consisting of:

• Kovalevsky V.A.,
• Andryushchenko A.V.,
• Bashtinsky A.I. from August 2, 1977, to August 4, 1977.

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE TABLE

R0–R1: start of the route. 0.5 rope length along the smoothed wet rocks of the black slab.

• R1–R2: 1.5 rope lengths ascent to a ledge, traverse left along it, and exit to a spalled rock.
• R2–R3: 0.5 rope length complex climbing, slab-like smoothed rocks, artificial technical means (И.Т.О.), exit into an internal corner. R3–R4: 1.5 rope lengths along the internal corner to the "grotto". Rocks are like "ram's foreheads". Rockfall hazard!