The route passes through the part of the Ak-Kem wall visible from Lake Ak-Kem, with an exit to the Western plateau. The route begins from the left upper cirque of the Ak-Kem glacier at an altitude of 3100 m. Section R0–R1. Snow slope. Section R1–R2. Bergschrund 4 m. Insurance through an ice axe. Section R2–R3. Firn slope under a hanging glacier. Section R3–R4. Tongue of a hanging glacier. Ice is hard. Section R4–R5. Snow cushion of a hanging glacier with ice islands. Section R5–R6. Firn bergschrund. Section R6–R2. Belt of ice-filled rocks. Steepness 45–50°. Section R7–R8. Icy rock belt 65°. Section R8–R9. Ice slope with rock islands.

XVIII. Brief Explanation of the UIAA Scheme

The ascent along the snowy cone of the talus does not constitute part of the route but is considered a difficult section because the loose deep snow interspersed with ice blocks complicates movement. Sec. R0–R1 · Bergschrund — a crevasse perpendicular to the slope, the upper edge of which overhangs and acts as a springboard. Sec. R1–R2 · Firn couloir with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R2–R3 · Ice groove through a rock belt 50 m, up to 65°. Sec. R3–R4 · Firn slope with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R4–R5 · Entry onto the "ram's foreheads" along the line between the upper rock steps. Sec. R5–R6 · Snow-covered "ram's foreheads". Sec. R6–R7 · Rocky ascent 150 m, 60°. Sec. R7–R8 · Ice wall 40 m, exit onto a ledge between seracs. Sec. R8–R9 · Traverse left to bypass the icefall. Sec. R9–R10 · Snow ascent 30°. Entry onto the saddle. Sec. R10–R11 · Flat snow field towards the Eastern ridge of the North summit of Western Belukha. Sec. R11–R12 · Wind-swept ice ridge with rocky outcrops 45°, 500 m. Sec. R12–R13 · Summit ridge with snow cornice to the left, up to the North summit of Western Belukha 300 m. Sec. R13–R14 · 1000 m along a sharp snowy ridge traverse to the main summit of the Specified Belukha 4456 m. Caution, snow cornices! Sec. R14–R15 · Descent along the Western ridge of the main summit onto the Western plateau, 400 m vertically.

R0–R1 — ascent to the pass, snowy-ice slope, 400 m, steepness — 35–40°. R1–R2 — talus — 20–25°, 300 m. R2–R4 — snowy ridge, 400 m. R4–R5 — snowy slope up to 35°, crevasses, cornices.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT DELONE B. VIA THE NE SLOPE, CATEGORY 4B ROUTE BY THE TEAM FROM NOVOSIBIRSK ON AUGUST 15, 2019.

I. Ascent Passport

Report

on the first ascent of the route to the summit Yubileynaya from the Container pass, category 1B, by the team of the Sports club of alpinists "Voshozhdenie" (Barnaul) on May 3, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

7. Ascent Routes on Mt. Morion Vostochny (2125 m)

Via the North Spur, Cat. 2A

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Uluun River towards Mt. Morion. After 1 hour, begin ascending the couloir between Mt. Morion and Mt. Morion Vostochny, keeping to its left side. Bypass the initial, straightforward rocks of the spur on the right, then ascend onto the spur and continue up to the rocks. Movement is simultaneous. Further:

• Traverse across snow-covered slabs under a steep wall with fractures on the left and right parts — the first critical section of the route.
• The start of this section can be done from either the right or left, depending on the route conditions.
• After 15 meters, both paths converge before a 10-meter snow-filled internal angle; careful passage through this angle brings you to the left side of the spur, where belays can be organized. Continuing with alternating movement along the sharp, steep, and snowy ridge demands caution and the ability to set up belay points without halting. Before the second critical section — a wall with a vertical crack — it is necessary to establish a reliable belay station, as a fall could result in dropping into a steep couloir on the left. The wall must be ascended via the vertical crack, which accommodates good placements for nuts and cams. It is not recommended to bypass the wall on the left due to smooth, snowy rocks with minimal handholds and cracks. Further:

69. Ai­lama via South­east Ridge (com­bi­na­tion route, E. Abal­a­kov, cat.5B, fig. 5, 15, 16). From Tsurun­galskaya saddle of the Main Caucasus Range (point 65, 63):

• 250–300 m up­wards over rocks of medium dif­fi­cul­ty be­low the first rock tur­ret of Ai­lama South­east Ridge;
• 200–220 m up­wards over rocks of me­dium-above dif­fi­cul­ty and dif­fi­cult rocks, cor­n­ers, couloirs to the tur­ret's shoulder;
• 50–60 m along a nar­row ledge on the left from the shoulder;
• 120 m up­wards over snow­cov­ered, de­stroyed rocks of me­dium dif­fi­cul­ty of the couloir to the snow col be­hind the I tur­ret.

73. Aylama via the III Bastion of the South Face (combined route, Sh. Margiani, 5B cat. dif., fig. 5, 15, 16). From the ledge at the top of the Left Edge (point 72):

• 150 m up a steep snow-ice slope.
• Having overcome or bypassed the bergschrund via difficult rocks on the left, ascend 80–100 m up a steep snow-ice couloir along the rocks on the right side of the III Bastion.
• Then turn left and up:
  • 40 m via difficult rocks of the wall,
  • then 40 m via moderately difficult rocks.

46. Be­лая Ne­zna­kom­ka via East­ern ridge (the route is com­bined, V. Saba­niz­dze, cat­egory III, fig. 5, 8). From the pla­teau (point 37) along a steep ice-and-snow slope, with out­crops of bro­ken rocks of me­dium dif­fi­culty, 150–200 m as­cent (pitons) to the Lower Shoul­der of the East­ern ridge. On the right there are ice falls. Fur­ther 200–250 m along the sim­ple ice-and-snow East­ern ridge (cor­nices) to the Snow Sen­tinel. From it a short des­cent to a sad­dle. Fur­ther along a gen­tle, then along a steep 50–60-me­ter ice-and-snow II as­cent and along frozen 20–40-me­ter rocks of me­dium dif­fi­culty (cor­nices, pitons) to the East­ern sen­tinel. From the sen­tinel along the snow East­ern ridge (cor­nices) to the sad­dle and along a steep 50–60-me­ter ice-and-snow (pitons) III as­cent, then along sim­ple

40. Belaya Neznakomka via the Southern ridge of the Uzlovoĭ gendarme of the Main Caucasian Ridge (MCR) (a combined route, Yu. Pulenets, 3B category of difficulty, fig. 5, 8). From the plateau, to the right of the MCR col between Belaya Neznakomka and Zeskho (point 37), having passed the bergschrund, ascend 40 m via a narrow ice-snow gully (rocks, belay) onto the Southern ridge of the Uzlovoĭ gendarme of the MCR (a cairn on the left on the shoulder). Here, turn right and ascend 60–80 m along slab-like steep simple broken rocks, 15–20 m along steep rocks of medium difficulty on the wall side (“live” rocks, pitons), 80 m along simple broken rocks of the Southern ridge. Then, along steep rocks of medium difficulty (piton belay):

• a 20-meter corner (piton belay)
• a 40-meter wide destroyed rocky ridge Ascend to the Uzlovoĭ gendarme of the MCR (a cairn). From the plateau, 4–5 hours.