7. Ascent Routes on Mt. Morion Vostochny (2125 m)

Via the North Spur, Cat. 2A

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Uluun River towards Mt. Morion. After 1 hour, begin ascending the couloir between Mt. Morion and Mt. Morion Vostochny, keeping to its left side. Bypass the initial, straightforward rocks of the spur on the right, then ascend onto the spur and continue up to the rocks. Movement is simultaneous.

Further:

• Traverse across snow-covered slabs under a steep wall with fractures on the left and right parts — the first critical section of the route.
• The start of this section can be done from either the right or left, depending on the route conditions.
• After 15 meters, both paths converge before a 10-meter snow-filled internal angle; careful passage through this angle brings you to the left side of the spur, where belays can be organized.

Continuing with alternating movement along the sharp, steep, and snowy ridge demands caution and the ability to set up belay points without halting.

Before the second critical section — a wall with a vertical crack — it is necessary to establish a reliable belay station, as a fall could result in dropping into a steep couloir on the left. The wall must be ascended via the vertical crack, which accommodates good placements for nuts and cams. It is not recommended to bypass the wall on the left due to smooth, snowy rocks with minimal handholds and cracks.

Further:

• The sharp, steep ridge leads to the summit area, where dense, vertical snow with a potential cornice at the top may be encountered.
• From Mt. Morion Vostochny, move simultaneously towards the main summit.
• Descent from Mt. Morion is done in the direction of Edelweiss Pass.
• When moving, avoid getting too close to the ridge due to 5–7 meter cornices.
• Begin the descent from the pass before reaching the lowest point, keeping to the right side.
• Be cautious of avalanches.

Route Safety Assessment

The route is logical. Potential hazards, apart from the rocky critical sections, include:

• Snow-covered, icy, and moss-grown rocks and slabs throughout the route;
• The sharp ridge of the spur, from which a fall is possible both to the right and left, with a drop of up to 100–150 meters.

One should be cautious of:

• Avalanches when ascending the couloir and descending from Edelweiss Pass;
• Crossing a snow cornice near the summit, as the belayer cannot see the first climber during the passage.

It is recommended to start the route as early as possible to avoid wet snow when ascending to Edelweiss Pass and descending from it.

Equipment Recommendations

For a group of 6 people, it is necessary to have:

• 3 ropes;
• Helmets, crampons, and ice axes for each participant;
• 6–8 pitons;
• 8 protection elements;
• 8 quickdraws with carabiners.

Characteristic Signs of the Route Start

The spur is represented by a broken, continuous curve from Mt. Morion Vostochny downwards — to the right, bounding a large couloir on the left between Mt. Morion Vostochny and Mt. Morion.

1. Mt. Klever, via the center of the N face, Cat. 3A
2. Mt. Fregat, via the left N spur, Cat. 3A
3. Mt. Fregat, via the central spur, Cat. 2B
4. Mt. Fregat, via the right N spur, Cat. 3B
5. Mt. Morion Vostochny, via the N spur, Cat. 2A
6. Mt. Morion, via the N-W spur, Cat. 3A