3. Uky via the Southeast Ridge, 2A.

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, ascend via the trail to the “golubyatnya” FAP shelter and reach the M. Ukyu glacier. Traverse the right side to bypass the steep rise of the glacier under the base of Ukyu's South ridge, then proceed along the middle of the glacier towards the Ukyu col. 250 m before the col (1.5–2 hours from the “golubyatnya”), move from the glacier leftward onto the talus under the base of the Southeastern ridge's rocky massif that descends towards the col. Along the boundary between the rocks (on the right) and the wide talus couloir, ascend to the talus “shoulder” of Ukyu's Southeast ridge — 1–1.5 hours from the glacier. Along the rocky ridge with simultaneous protection via outcrops and pitons, the “jandarms” are passed directly. The pre-summit rise of the ridge is overcome via the wall left of the ridge: from the talus saddle (possibly snowy), traverse left along a ledge for 30 m, then up and right via a wide rock chimney, exiting it leftward through a cleft with a plug, then via moss-covered blocks onto the ridge — protection via outcrops. In other variations of ascending the rise, piton protection is used. The gentle pre-summit section is passed simultaneously along the ridge line. 2–2.5 hours from reaching the ridge. Descent follows the ascent route down to the “golubyatnya”, taking 1.5–2 hours. Special equipment: 5–6 rock pitons or chocks.

Ukyu by the left edge of the W wall of the S ridge, 3B.

From the KSP "Golubiatnia" shelter, head to the glacier and along its left edge approach the left corner of the W. wall of the S. ridge of Ukyu. From the glacier, ascend the slope of the right-bank moraine to the left, and behind its ridge, through the gully between the gray (left) and black scree, reach the cape of the left edge. Another option: from "Golubiatnia" ascend the slope to the moraine ridge and then along the ridge approach the route. From "Golubiatnia" — 0.5 hours. Ascend the couloir to the left or right of the edge ridge for 20–80 m, then reach the edge ridge and continue with simultaneous protection via ledges and rock pitons to the control cairn on a wide terrace; from the start — 1 hour. To bypass the overhanging rocks on the left, ascend the rock wall for 120–150 m with good holds in the general direction under the "gendarme" that has the shape of a finger against the sky background. Depending on the conditions, 15–25 protection points may be required in this section (pitons, chocks, slings). After reaching the ridge: the key location is the sharp "gendarme," initially passed head-on, then along the ridge. Continue along the edge and the 3 slope to reach the gentle S. ridge and along it (cautiously — overhanging cornices are possible to the right) to the summit. From the start of the route — 6–8 hours. Descent along the SE ridge as described in 3 — to "Golubiatnia" — 1.5–2 hours. Hazardous areas: on the 3 slopes of the S. ridge — rockfall hazard (a lengthy detour of the lower part of the route is unacceptable), and overhanging cornices are possible on the pre-summit section of the S ridge to the right. Special equipment: rock pitons and chock stones — 12–15 pcs., working carabiners — 10–12 pcs., slings made of main rope — 2 pcs. (for extenders and protection on ledges).

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Bezen­gi area, Ukyu gorge. Section 2.5 according to the 2013 classification table.
2. To Mt. Malaya Ukyu, height 4240 m, via the couloir and the northwest ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
4. The route is combined.
5. Height difference: 800 m.
6. 2 rappel loops left on the route.
7. Moving time: 8 hours.
8. Leader: Slot­yuk A.A., CMS (Candidate for Master of Sports), participants: Ryab­ov I.V., MSIC (Master of Sports of International Class), Ryab­ov S.I., III sports category.
9. Coach: Slot­yuk A.A.

Ullu-Auz from Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi Pass.

The summit of Ullu-Auz-Bashi (4679 m) is located in a branch of the lateral ridge, separating the basins of Dumala and Mizhyrgi rivers. The ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi from Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi Pass is classified as 3A category of difficulty.

Day 1.

From the "Bezengi" road, the path goes along the left-bank moraine of the Mizhyrgi glacier until the trail disappears and the moraine descends to the level of the glacier (about an hour and a half of walking), then you need to reach the glacier and ascend along its middle to the first step of the Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi icefall. The first step is passed on the right side along the gentlest ice slope. You should not approach the slopes of Mizhyrgi due to possible snow avalanches, and after passing the first step, you need to quickly move up to the left to the left edge of the second step of the icefall. The lower part of the second step of the icefall is bypassed (on the left) along the talus (50–60 m), then the path goes to the right and leads to the ice above the steep ice slope. Here, crampons are usually put on. Further, the path goes:

• straight up the icefall,
• about 20–50 m from its left edge. Numerous crevices are filled with serac debris and are passed without difficulty. The most difficult section of the second step is located in its upper part, where it may be necessary to:

23 Ulluuuz via the E slope of the E ridge — 5A cat. diff. (V. Samokhvalov, A. Ryabukhin, Yu. Slezkin and O. Trubnikov — August 7, 1964). The path from the “Bezengi” alpine camp to the Severny Ulluuuz Glacier see in description 12. On the moraine of the glacier under the slopes of the Archimedes peak — a bivouac. From the bivouac (in ropes and crampons!) across the glacier and then upwards, 200–250 m to the right of the lower rocky spur. Across the bergschrund, ascend directly upwards 700–800 m along the ice-snow slope, then along a not very pronounced couloir, to the right of the second triangle of the rocky spur (protection! avalanches!) with an exit to the snow plateau of faults above the rocky triangular spur. From the plateau:

• ascend along the snowy slope through the bergschrund;
• further along the snow-ice slope 200–250 m upwards to the lower right rocky spur under the summit tower (avalanches!);
• on the right side of the spur (“live” stones! pitons!) 10–15 m upwards. From the top of the spur:
• 300–400-meter traverse left-upwards along the ice-snow slope under the rocks of the summit tower (pitons!);
• along the ice slope-couloir, ascend to the saddle of the East ridge of the Ulluuuz summit.

23 Ulluuuz via the E slope of the W ridge — 5A cat. diff. (V. Samokhvalov, A. Ryabukhin, Yu. Slezin and O. Trubnikov — August 7, 1964). The path from the "Bezengi" alp camp to the Severny Ulluuuz glacier see in description 12. On the moraine of the glacier under the slopes of the Archimedes peak — a bivouac. From the bivouac (in teams and with crampons!) across the glacier and then up, 200–250 m to the right of the lower rocky outcrop. Through the bergschrund, ascent straight up 700–800 m along the ice-snow slope, then — along a not very pronounced couloir, to the right of the second triangle of the rocky outcrop (insurance! avalanches!) — with an exit to the snow plateau of faults above the triangular rocky outcrop. From the plateau:

• ascent along the snow slope through the bergschrund;
• further along the snow-ice slope 200–250 m up to the lower rocky right outcrop under the summit tower (avalanches!);
• on the right side of the outcrop (“live” stones! pitons!) 10–15 m up. From the top of the outcrop:
• 300–400-meter traverse left-up along the ice-snow slope under the rocks of the summit tower (piton!);
• along the ice slope-couloir ascent to the saddle of the Eastern ridge of the Ulluuuz summit.

Ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak via Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass.

Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak (4679 m) is located in a branch of the lateral ridge, separating the basins of Dumala and Mizhyrgi rivers. The ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi via Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass is classified as category III.

Route description.

Day 1.

Day 1. From "Bezengi" tourist center, the path goes along the left-bank moraine of Mizhyrgi glacier until the trail disappears and the moraine descends to the glacier level (approximately one and a half hours of walking). Then, you need to reach the glacier and ascend along its middle part to the first step of Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi icefall. The first step is traversed on its right side along the most gentle ice slope. It is not recommended to approach the slopes of Mizhyrgi due to possible snow avalanches, and after passing the first step, you need to quickly move up to the left to the left edge of the second step of the icefall. The lower part of the second step of the icefall is bypassed (on the left) along the talus (50–60 m), then the path goes to the right and leads to the ice above the steep ice slope. Here, crampons are usually put on. The path continues:

• straight up the icefall, approximately 20–50 m from its left edge;
• numerous crevices are filled with serac fragments and can be passed without difficulty.

Ural V. via S. wall, 4А

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, follow the trail up the gorge to the KSP “golubyatnya” shelter, here exit onto the Ukyu glacier, on it, keeping to the right side, ascend (200 m short of) to the Ukyu pass, 2 hours (Fig. 1). From the glacier, right and up 150 m along the snowy slope to the bergschrund. Then move up along the ice ridge going left of all the rocky islands under the saddle between the peaks of M. and V. Ural. The ridge abuts against the rocky tower of M. Ural, here right — under the tower's rocks — exit to the saddle. From the start of the route 3–4 hours. From the saddle up the wide chimney with protection via rock pitons 25 m to the plug, exit from the chimney right and up the wall 10 m to a ledge with a good protrusion (rappel loop). From the ledge:

• left and up 20 m to a rocky outcrop (protrusion 3–4 m);
• then along the rocks (possible snow, ice) 35–40 m to the E. ridge (second loop). From here:
• along the inner corner 20 m to the summit.

13. The Eastern summit of peak Ural via the Northern wall — 4A cat. dif. (A. Ryabukhin, N. Levchenko, V. Samokhvalov and O. Trubnikova — July 15, 1963; Fig. 3A). The path from the “Bezengi” alpine camp to the Zelyonaya glade below Maly Ukju glacier see in description 1. From the glade, ascent to the moraine to the right of a lowering in its ridge, traverse it to avoid a glacial lake, then exit to Maly Ukju glacier and ascend it. In an hour, to the right of the Southern counterfort of Ukju peak, exit the glacier to the left onto the moraine below the southern slopes of the peak. There is a bivouac on the moraine. From the “Bezengi” alpine camp — 5–6 hours. From the moraine (in crampons! roped up!) cross the glacier and ascend to the right of the central couloir of peak Ural

Ural M via E ridge, 3B

From the "Ukyu-kosh" hut, follow the trail up the gorge to the "Golubyatnya" FSP shelter, here exit onto the Ukyu glacier, on it, keeping to the right side, ascend (200 m before) to the Ukyu pass, 2 hours (fig. 1). From the glacier, go right onto the "pillow" under the ridge leading from Ural p. to Dumala, ascend the snow-ice slope between rockfall (left) and avalanche debris (right) through a covered crevasse in the slope inflection zone and further along the bergschrund to the E edge of the "pillow". Cross the bergschrund, and then ascend 150 m up the ice-snow slope with a steepness of 50 to 30° along the rocky counterfort of the last gendarme onto the ridge, using ice screws for belay. Follow the snowy ridge with rock outcrops to the saddle under the summit tower. From the boundary of the snowy ridge with rocks, go left 5–6 m along the slabs and up 15 m along the sheer inner corner (belay via rock screws) to a ledge with a выступ. From here, ascend 40 m up the rocky couloir (attention: fragile rocks, possible snow) to the gap in the summit ridge and left — to the summit cairn. From the glacier 4–5 hours. Descent follows the ascent route, from the ledge to the saddle — "Dülfer" on a doubled 40-meter rope. To the meadow 2.5–3 hours. Hazardous areas:

• on the "pillow" — covered crevasses;
• on the summit tower — fragile rocks;
• on the snow-ice slope of the E ridge (when descending) — wet snow, avalanche danger. Special equipment: