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The ascent of a team of mountaineering instructors to South Ushba via the center of the western wall in 1971, technically challenging and highly categorized.

Passport

    1. 1986

Ascent made in the USSR Alpine Championship 1974

  1. ASCENT CLASS:
  2. ASCENT REGION:
  3. ASCENT ROUTE: TECHNICAL CENTRAL CAUCASUS SOUTH USHBA VIA THE CENTER OF THE WEST FACE (4710 m)

4. Characteristics of the ascent:

  • HEIGHT DIFFERENCE 2100 m
  • AVERAGE STEEPNESS 65°–70°
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Ascent to Ushba South (4710 m) via the Pinnacle Wall, made by the "Dzhailik" team led by captain Khatskevich I.G.

I. Climbing category — technically challenging 2. Climbing region — Central Caucasus 3. Climbing route — South Ushba 4710 m, via the pepinier-wall 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference (wall section of the route) — 1010 m, average steepness (wall section of the route) — 72°, length of complex sections — 820 m 5. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 263 ice — screw — 4 6. Number of travel hours — 109.5 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

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Report on the traverse South Ushba — North Ushba, category 6A difficulty level, undertaken by the team from NRU MGSU in August-September 2023.

REPORT

ON CROSSING THE TRAVERSE SOUTH USHBA – NORTH USHBA 6A category of complexity BY THE TEAM OF NIU MGSU FOR THE PERIOD from August 28 to September 2, 2023 Route "Krasivyy" 2023

1. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderProstakishin Dmitry Aleksandrovich
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Climbing passport for the ascent to the summit of Diklos-mta (4285 m) via the Eastern Ridge, category 2A difficulty, with a description of the route and its passage in 1978.

Ascent Passport

  1. Climbing type: rock climbing
  2. Climbing area: No. 2.9 (Eastern Caucasus)
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Diklos-mta 4285 m, via the eastern ridge
  4. Proposed difficulty category: approximately 2A category
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 600 m average slope 30° duration of sections R1–300 m, R2–850 m, R3–150 m for belaying, for creating, etc.
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Ascent of Khan Tengri peak via the South-West slope, category 5B, made by a team from Severodvinsk in 1998.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category: high-altitude and technical.
  2. Ascent region: Central Tian Shan, South Inylchek.
  3. Ascent route: Khan-Tengri peak via the Southwest slope, 4. M. Pogrebetsky 1931.
  4. Category of difficulty: 5B
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 2985 (by altimeter), ascent length: –9 km, descent length: –9.4 km, section lengths: 5th category of difficulty – 120 m,
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Description of the route to the top Western Shhelda (4310 m) via Kurсантov Pass, category of difficulty 3-6, duration 6-8 days.

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Description of the route to Peak P — 10 "Zapadnaya" from the 1018 Shhelda shelter and Kur­sant­ov Pass

cat. diff. 3–6, peak height 4310 m (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) From the "Spartak" camp, we head out on a trail that leads along the slope of the Shhelda valley to the Arnstov hut. The journey from the camp to the Arnstov hut takes 3–5 hours; there are convenient areas for overnight stays and water. From the Arnstov hut, the trail leads to a steep ascent to the moraine, then crosses a stream flowing from a hanging glacier, and continues straight in the direction of Melkaya Shhelda. In the upper part (to the right of the path), there is a rocky massif with good areas for overnight stays. The journey from the "Spartak" camp to the overnight stay takes 6–8 hours. The further path goes in the direction of Pass O through the middle part of the glacier, and in case of little snow — slightly to the right of the peak along a steep snow-ice slope, the path to Sredniy Pass.

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The ascent of the Lithuanian team to the summit of Shkhara (4229 m) via the north face of the north-west ridge in 1988, complexity category 5B, with a detailed description of the team's technical actions.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent category: technical
  2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Shkhelda gorge
  3. III western Shkhelda (4229 m) via the north face of the northwest ridge (Kensitsky variation)
  4. 5B category of difficulty
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1129 m, height difference of the route's wall section — 320 m, route length — 1630 m, length of the route's wall section — 340 m,
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