Activity Feed
Route Description: 3 ребру
The ascent of a team of mountaineering instructors to South Ushba via the center of the western wall in 1971, technically challenging and highly categorized.
Passport
-
- 1986
Ascent made in the USSR Alpine Championship 1974
- ASCENT CLASS:
- ASCENT REGION:
- ASCENT ROUTE: TECHNICAL CENTRAL CAUCASUS SOUTH USHBA VIA THE CENTER OF THE WEST FACE (4710 m)
4. Characteristics of the ascent:
- HEIGHT DIFFERENCE 2100 m
- AVERAGE STEEPNESS 65°–70°
Route Description: центру В стены
Ascent to Ushba South (4710 m) via the Pinnacle Wall, made by the "Dzhailik" team led by captain Khatskevich I.G.
I. Climbing category — technically challenging 2. Climbing region — Central Caucasus 3. Climbing route — South Ushba 4710 m, via the pepinier-wall 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference (wall section of the route) — 1010 m, average steepness (wall section of the route) — 72°, length of complex sections — 820 m 5. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 263 ice — screw — 4 6. Number of travel hours — 109.5 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:
Route Description: траверс
Report on the traverse South Ushba — North Ushba, category 6A difficulty level, undertaken by the team from NRU MGSU in August-September 2023.
REPORT
ON CROSSING THE TRAVERSE SOUTH USHBA – NORTH USHBA 6A category of complexity BY THE TEAM OF NIU MGSU FOR THE PERIOD from August 28 to September 2, 2023 Route "Krasivyy" 2023
1. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Prostakishin Dmitry Aleksandrovich |
Route Description: В гребню
Climbing passport for the ascent to the summit of Diklos-mta (4285 m) via the Eastern Ridge, category 2A difficulty, with a description of the route and its passage in 1978.
Ascent Passport
- Climbing type: rock climbing
- Climbing area: No. 2.9 (Eastern Caucasus)
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Diklos-mta 4285 m, via the eastern ridge
- Proposed difficulty category: approximately 2A category
- Route characteristics: elevation gain 600 m average slope 30° duration of sections R1–300 m, R2–850 m, R3–150 m for belaying, for creating, etc.
Route Description: ЮЗ склону
Ascent of Khan Tengri peak via the South-West slope, category 5B, made by a team from Severodvinsk in 1998.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category: high-altitude and technical.
- Ascent region: Central Tian Shan, South Inylchek.
- Ascent route: Khan-Tengri peak via the Southwest slope, 4. M. Pogrebetsky 1931.
- Category of difficulty: 5B
- Route characteristics: elevation gain: 2985 (by altimeter), ascent length: –9 km, descent length: –9.4 km, section lengths: 5th category of difficulty – 120 m,
Route Description: с юга
Description of the route to the top Western Shhelda (4310 m) via Kurсантov Pass, category of difficulty 3-6, duration 6-8 days.
4.
Description of the route to Peak P — 10 "Zapadnaya" from the 1018 Shhelda shelter and Kursantov Pass
cat. diff. 3–6, peak height 4310 m (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) (4) From the "Spartak" camp, we head out on a trail that leads along the slope of the Shhelda valley to the Arnstov hut. The journey from the camp to the Arnstov hut takes 3–5 hours; there are convenient areas for overnight stays and water. From the Arnstov hut, the trail leads to a steep ascent to the moraine, then crosses a stream flowing from a hanging glacier, and continues straight in the direction of Melkaya Shhelda. In the upper part (to the right of the path), there is a rocky massif with good areas for overnight stays. The journey from the "Spartak" camp to the overnight stay takes 6–8 hours. The further path goes in the direction of Pass O through the middle part of the glacier, and in case of little snow — slightly to the right of the peak along a steep snow-ice slope, the path to Sredniy Pass.
Route Description: С стене СЗ ребра
The ascent of the Lithuanian team to the summit of Shkhara (4229 m) via the north face of the north-west ridge in 1988, complexity category 5B, with a detailed description of the team's technical actions.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Ascent category: technical
- Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Shkhelda gorge
- III western Shkhelda (4229 m) via the north face of the northwest ridge (Kensitsky variation)
- 5B category of difficulty
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1129 m, height difference of the route's wall section — 320 m, route length — 1630 m, length of the route's wall section — 340 m,