New route on Sokol "AlisA" 5B

In Crimea (Sudak region) on Sokol mountain between "Vos'merka" and "Ryzhiy Ugol" routes a new route "AlisA" 5B has appeared. Sokol mountain (Sudak) The "AlisA" route is 160 m long from R0. The start of the route is the same as the R0 station of "Ryzhiy Ugol". On the wall, there is an inscription "AlisA". You need to go through a vertical slit - a groove above the inscription.□

Thread of the "AlisA" route

R1, R2, R3 stations are equipped with rappel rings. R4 station is on a plateau - a tree. The route is thoroughly cleaned of loose rocks and flakes. The route is recommended for well-prepared climbers in technical and psychological terms.

• relief skyhooks
• hole skyhooks
• vertical and horizontal cams
• topo guides in sufficient quantity

Sokol - 35

Khokhol's Route via Ryzyi Karniz 5B (6A?)

Climbed by Alexander Kruglenko in 1980-1989. The difficulty is somewhat high for a 5B grade. The start is about 50 meters to the left of "Brovi". Between "Brovi" and Ryzyi Karniz, a black streak is visible from the road in the lower third of the wall. To its right are two internal corners (gullies). The route follows the second one. The first bolts are visible from below (their condition is normal). After reaching the ledge below "Brovi", move left. At the beginning of the route, several loose slabs are carried to the wall. The first bolt is visible about 10 meters up. R1 - From the lower slab (standing), move up towards the bolt (pitons, skyhooks, small nuts). Up via bolts, then left to a crack (skyhook). Up the crack to a small cave on aid climbing (pitons), with some free climbing sections (medium-sized nuts). From the cave, up (a hole for a skyhook, then standing), through a damaged crack (loose rocks, a standing position along the way) to a belay station (a bolt and a "carrot"). R1 45 m 85° VI A3 (the grade might be subjective and the actual difficulty lower). R2 - Continue up through a cornice on slabs (bolts), then right to cracks and up them to a ledge. R2 40 m 80° V+. From R2, due to lack of time, we went right to R2 of the "Gran'" route. Attention! The route's continuation is described very approximately. From R2, left to a thin crack, up it. Then, after passing a series of cornices, approach Ryzyi Karniz. It is climbed in its right part via a crack. Alternative: From R2, traverse right 40-45 meters along the ledge, which turns into a crack, to R2 of the "Gran'" route. The difficulty is about IV. Then follow "Gran'", or, continuing the traverse right, reach "Brovi" (about 15 meters).

New route in Crimea on g. Treugolnik — “Gendalf Seryy” 4A

The bastion to the left of Treugolnik's main wall. Maybe it was climbed before, but it's not in the classifier and there are no descriptions anywhere. On the route, we didn't find any hooks or drill holes, nor any signs of previous passage. The first time we came with the intention to make a first ascent, we were unlucky with the weather — it was raining. So, we decided to just scout the approaches and get as close as possible to examine and photograph everything.

Gora Treugolnik, route “Gendalf Seryy” 4A

First ascent (2011): Dmitry Lesnoy, Maxim Berezhnoy (Kherson)

It turned into a whole reconnaissance expedition in harsh conditions :). We had never been under Treugolnik before, but knew it was possible to approach from the quarry. We decided to head straight to the bastion from the road through the forest, and return via the quarry to compare these two approach options. The second option, through the quarry, turned out to be much more convenient and readable. The second time, the decision to climb this route was practically spontaneous, the weather was favorable, and we completed it as a two-person team in 10 hours without using any technical equipment or hanging belays — everything was done on-sight by both participants.

Approach

New route in Crimea on g. Tre­уголь­ник — «So­ko­li­naya okhota» 4А

First ascent 2013: Dmitriy Lesnoy, Viktor Reyzner (Kherson)

About the route «So­ko­li­naya okhota» 4А (preliminary).

The route is located to the right of the bastion, where the route "Gendalf Seryy" 4А is laid. The upper large part of the route passes along a not ярко expressed ridge. It was expected to be 2А–3А, but it turned out to be more difficult due to several sections of 6а–6а+ at the beginning. The entire route was climbed freely, with free climbing. The relief is generally monolithic, there were not many loose rocks, and those we removed from the wall, so it is now not prone to rockfall. In two places, we had to approach trees through a couple of meters of lush vegetation (R1 and R6), a first ascent, after all. The line of the route is logical, it goes exactly where you want to go. The main difficulties are at the beginning, on the 1st and 2nd ropes. All stations are on trees; we didn't drill bolt holes, only hammered in 1 piton when transitioning to the right after R1, because there was nothing to place there.

About the name

On the 6th rope, while leading, I heard desperate cries of birds above. Deciding that the falcons were возмущались at our approach, I began to calm them down aloud and promised that we wouldn't touch anything. After a few seconds, they approached, and I realized that two falcons were hunting a smaller bird, which was crying. And right in front of me, at a distance of about eight meters in the air, a scene unfolded that I had only seen in documentaries:

Triangle — 5. "Orthodox"

Massif: Triangle (1000 m) Complexity: 6A, VI, A3+ Authors: E. Poltavets (Kharkov), A. Lavrinenko (Odessa) Year of creation: 2010 Length: 485 m Time to complete: 15–20 h Route description: The line passes through the central part of Triangle. The route is long, laborious, and minimally equipped with bolts. The rock is not monolithic everywhere. From the overnight stay, approach the wall and move left for 100 m. The route starts 50 m to the left of the start of route №6 "Druzhba" — the letter "D" on the wall. The starting point is marked by fresh collapse traces under the wall. R0–R1 45 m. Up a five-meter overhanging wall to the right. The terrain then becomes more manageable. Move left and up along a wide crack with a small tree. After 30 m, the crack turns right and disappears. On the wall, move left and up 8 m towards the inner corner to a bolt, then climb left into the corner. It's better to set up a station in the corner, under the protection of a ledge, as the second section has very crumbling rocks.

• 35 m V
• 8 m VI A3+
• 3 m V R1–R2 35 m. Without using the resonating plate on skyhooks, move right and up (3 holes), then up through crumbling terrain; there are two bolts. From the second bolt, move along a shelf to the left, then up 5–7 m through a crumbling corner. Station on personal anchors.

Triangle — 8

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko («Оде­ссит»), Odessa Pho­tos by Aleksey Zhilin Gora Treugolnik (Triangle Mountain, 1000 m above sea level) is located above the settlement of Parkovoe, 2 km west of Mar­che­ki. The wall has a western orientation, so it is almost invisible from the lower road. The wall's length in the central part is >400 m, height difference is >300 m. The best way to approach the wall is through the quarry. From the spring up the scree — 15 minutes to the wall.

Treugolnik — 11

Author: Alexander Zakolodny, Ukraine

New route on Treugolnik "Zvezdniy" 6B

The next day we climbed. But no, the championship rules put us in a situation where we had to climb "fast and light". And how can you climb fast when there's snow, rain, frost - so we had to spend the night stylishly, without a sleeping bag and with a bonfire.

To summarize:

The line turned out to be directive to the bastion.

• The complexity of some sections is really A3+ (maybe even A4). Very similar to the first ropes of Krizuk's route on Peak Odessa 4810 m.
• Danger - by my standards - is off the charts.
• Style - couldn't be easier.

Foros kant. Telezhenko, 2B cat. sl. A strong key rope requires the leader's ability to climb and belay on rocks not less than F 5 c–6 a. This means that if there isn't one, then it's better not to go. To fail to climb and abandon the route is one thing. To fall off and ... is another.

Forosskiy Kant — 5

On the right edge of the western part of the massif, 2B

From the alpinist camps under Forosskiy Kant, proceed about 250 m towards Baidarskie Vorota until a sharp turn of the road. If you go a little further, then, turning around, you can see the inscription "Тележенко" in the lower part of the sheer wall. The start of the main part of the route is to the right of this inscription. From the road turn, first along the trail, and Then up simple rocks to the right of the sheer wall to the middle of the counterforce, 10 m below a long and large crevice. There is a station on 3 rock hooks. (R0: 50 m,

By the Eastern Edge (ПК), 2B (V. Kozinogo route, 1973)

The route goes through a wide internal corner that vertically cuts through the entire wall. The internal corner leads to a lowering in the ridge between the peaks of Forosky Kant and Mshatka-Kaya and serves as a conditional boundary between them. From the road, near the alpinist camps:

• 200 m up along the trail
• then 50 m along simple rocks under a reddish overhanging wall located slightly to the right of the wide internal corner (R0: 250 m, 20–40, no category). On the R3–R4 section — first up the slab, and then up and to the right 20 m (R3–R4: 40 m, 70–60, II–III). On the final section of the route — first left and up 25 m to a small couloir. From it, up to a large, overgrown with bushes, couloir. Along it, 25 m up to the summit plateau (R4 — summit: 120 m, 50–60°, I–II). Variation: On the R1–R2 section — from the grotto up, first along the right side of the internal corner, and then along smooth slabs to a long horizontal shelf. (R1–R2: 40 m, 70°, III+). The length of the main part of the route is about 240 m. Time to complete the route is 2–3 hours. P.S. The full name of this route is not "Right Edge" as some people think, but "P — — — and kitten". This is not a literary name given by the first ascenders — Dnipropetrovsk students who got into trouble on this route.