Treugolnik — 11

Author: Alexander Zakolodny, Ukraine

New route on Treugolnik "Zvezdniy" 6B

The next day we climbed. But no, the championship rules put us in a situation where we had to climb "fast and light". And how can you climb fast when there's snow, rain, frost - so we had to spend the night stylishly, without a sleeping bag and with a bonfire.

To summarize:

The line turned out to be directive to the bastion.

• The complexity of some sections is really A3+ (maybe even A4). Very similar to the first ropes of Krizuk's route on Peak Odessa 4810 m.
• Danger - by my standards - is off the charts.
• Style - couldn't be easier.
• Speed - this, of course, is not a world championship - we didn't climb simultaneously, but we climbed fast.

Now it's up to our respected judges, maybe this time common sense will prevail over the latest judging methods. We named the route "Zvezdniy" because of the frosty and starry night. When I started to shiver, the view opened up - a snowy quarry, a tooth, lights against the background of the sea and the starry sky. The romance of Crimean alpinism! "This route is dedicated to my friend Dima Konyaev, who perished under Nanga Parbat".

Technical description of the route by sections.

The route starts to the left of the "Kamenolomnya" route (big corner), landmark - overhang on gray terrain.

*R0–R1 (40 m, VI, A2+):*Up a thin crack, initially on rusty, then on gray terrain. Station in the corner, there's a bolt.

*R1–R2 (43 m, VI, A2):*Up through dissected and live terrain. Station a bit to the left of the big corner on light terrain (this is the most protected spot).

*R2–R3 (42 m, VI, A3+–A4):*Up the crack (landmark - left edge of the white patch). Up the edge to the overhang (hatchets, relief skyhooks). Then up through live and very fragile rock. Station at the base of a monolithic inner corner. This section is very dangerous due to the risk of breaking off a huge slab.

*R3–R4 (45 m, VI, A2+)*Up the corner. Station in a hollow with a tree.

*R4–R5 (35 m, VI, A2)*Right along the ledge 5 m, then up a crumbling corner. Station on a big ledge. Overnight stay possible.

*R5–R6 (30 m, VI, A2)*Left - up a sloping slab to a vertical crack (10 m). Then up the crack to the top of the slab (25 m). Station below the top of the slab.

*R6–R7 (50 m, VI, A3):*Up - left on a smooth slab (landmark - bolt, 6 m; relief skyhooks). Then up into an inner corner under an overhang. The overhang is bypassed to the right on a ledge. Station on the second tree.

*R7–R8 (50 m, V+):*From the tree left into the corner. Then up the corner to a ledge, along the ledge left - to a big tree. Station on the tree.

*R8–R9 (48 m, I):*Left into a scree gully. Station on the right side.

*R9–R10 (50 m, II):*Up a positive corner. Then right - to a big tree. Station on the tree.

*R10–R11 (50 m, III):*Left - up destroyed rocks. Station on a tree. Then - along a gentle scree slope to the yayla.