Sokol - 35

Khokhol's Route via Ryzyi Karniz 5B (6A?)

Climbed by Alexander Kruglenko in 1980-1989. The difficulty is somewhat high for a 5B grade. The start is about 50 meters to the left of "Brovi". Between "Brovi" and Ryzyi Karniz, a black streak is visible from the road in the lower third of the wall. To its right are two internal corners (gullies). The route follows the second one. The first bolts are visible from below (their condition is normal). After reaching the ledge below "Brovi", move left. At the beginning of the route, several loose slabs are carried to the wall. The first bolt is visible about 10 meters up. R1 - From the lower slab (standing), move up towards the bolt (pitons, skyhooks, small nuts). Up via bolts, then left to a crack (skyhook). Up the crack to a small cave on aid climbing (pitons), with some free climbing sections (medium-sized nuts). From the cave, up (a hole for a skyhook, then standing), through a damaged crack (loose rocks, a standing position along the way) to a belay station (a bolt and a "carrot"). R1 45 m 85° VI A3 (the grade might be subjective and the actual difficulty lower). R2 - Continue up through a cornice on slabs (bolts), then right to cracks and up them to a ledge. R2 40 m 80° V+. From R2, due to lack of time, we went right to R2 of the "Gran'" route. Attention! The route's continuation is described very approximately. From R2, left to a thin crack, up it. Then, after passing a series of cornices, approach Ryzyi Karniz. It is climbed in its right part via a crack. Alternative: From R2, traverse right 40-45 meters along the ledge, which turns into a crack, to R2 of the "Gran'" route. The difficulty is about IV. Then follow "Gran'", or, continuing the traverse right, reach "Brovi" (about 15 meters).