Triangle — 5. "Orthodox"

Massif: Triangle (1000 m) Complexity: 6A, VI, A3+ Authors: E. Poltavets (Kharkov), A. Lavrinenko (Odessa) Year of creation: 2010 Length: 485 m Time to complete: 15–20 h Route description: The line passes through the central part of Triangle. The route is long, laborious, and minimally equipped with bolts. The rock is not monolithic everywhere.

From the overnight stay, approach the wall and move left for 100 m. The route starts 50 m to the left of the start of route №6 "Druzhba" — the letter "D" on the wall. The starting point is marked by fresh collapse traces under the wall.

R0–R1 45 m. Up a five-meter overhanging wall to the right. The terrain then becomes more manageable. Move left and up along a wide crack with a small tree. After 30 m, the crack turns right and disappears. On the wall, move left and up 8 m towards the inner corner to a bolt, then climb left into the corner.

It's better to set up a station in the corner, under the protection of a ledge, as the second section has very crumbling rocks.

• 35 m V
• 8 m VI A3+
• 3 m V

R1–R2 35 m. Without using the resonating plate on skyhooks, move right and up (3 holes), then up through crumbling terrain; there are two bolts. From the second bolt, move along a shelf to the left, then up 5–7 m through a crumbling corner. Station on personal anchors.

15 m A3; 10 m VI A2; 10 m IV R2–R3 30 m. Up through crumbling rocks to the left chimney. Climb the chimney, then through a crack up to a flattening. Station on personal anchors.

• 10 m IV
• 20 m VI A1

R3–R4 25 m. Up, slightly deviating left to a shelf with a bolt.

25 m IV R4–R5 30 m.

• Up a sloping plate with a crack for 5 m.
• Move 5 m to the left.
• Then up (there are two holes for skyhooks) under a wall with a crack. The rocks are very crumbling.
• Along the crack for 10 m to a bolt, from it right and up into a corner.

Station on a bolt and personal anchors.

10 m V A2; 20 m A3

R5–R6 50 m.

• Up a thin monolithic crack for 40 m.
• Exit onto easier rocks and move right and up to a tree. There's a bolt next to it.

40 m VI A3; 10 m II

R6–R7 40 m. Along easier rocks right and up to a large pine. On the section R6–R8, the route converges with route №5 "Forostyana".

Section characteristics:

• Length: 40 m
• Difficulty category: II

R7–R8 25 m. Along a shelf left into a corner to an old bolt. Up an overhanging corner, then up its right wall onto a shelf. Old (unreliable) bolts are encountered. Station on personal anchors. To the right, a pendulum bolt of route №5 is visible.

Section characteristics:

• Length: 5 m
• Difficulty category: I
• Length: 20 m
• Difficulty category: A2–A3

R8–R9 40 m. Up 4 m, then a complex traverse left for 3 m. Then up through a system of cracks onto a shelf with a large pine. There are sections of solid rock.

• 35 m VI A3
• 4 m III

R9–R10 30 m. Left and up along a grey plate to a bolt (there are 2 holes for skyhooks). Then left into a corner. Up the corner, bypass a ledge to the right, and along easier rocks to a tree.

10 m VI A3; 20 m V A1 R10–R11 50 m. Up through crumbling rocks to the ridge crest, then to trees. Station on a tree. 25 m IV–25 m I

R11–R12 55 m. Along the ridge to the summit tower. Station on a large pine. 55 m I

R12–R13 30 m. Along easier rocks, then through a crumbling wall to the summit.

30 m III