Route №13

“Wedding” (“The Hole”)

2A IV 260 m (7 pitches). Average passage time — 3–5 hours. The easiest route to the summit of Chelebi-Yaurun-Beli, however, climbers should be able to navigate the terrain well. The starting point of the route is a horizontal shelf, on the western edge of which a tree grows. Two memorial plaques dedicated to deceased climbers can serve as landmarks. R0–R1: 30 m. Go left along the shelf to the tree. From it, 20 meters up through simple rocks. Insurance point on the tree.

• 10 m I
• 20 m II–III R1­–R2: 40 m. This is the most difficult section of the route. Up through simple rocks to a rock spall. Continue moving up through it and then through simple sloping rocks to a large shelf overgrown with trees. Insurance point on one of them.
• 15 m II
• 10 m IV

Description of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi, 4A cat. difficulty

Written by Katterrin on April 23, 2010. Before the May holidays, I finally gathered my thoughts to write a description of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi, 3B cat. difficulty. Maybe it will be useful to someone. Route "Bashnya" on Chelebi

4₁, cat. difficulty

UIAA scheme of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi from the guidebook "Skaly u morya" (Rocks by the Sea) The route is located in the leftmost part of the Chelebi massif; to its right is the route 2B "po Kaminu" (via the Chimney).

"Chimney in the Chimney", 4A (Chelebi)

Route thread A very interesting and beautiful route, abundant with diverse climbing, especially memorable for its chimneys. Judging by its condition, it is rarely climbed and requires clearing of ledges from stones. Recommended for ascent by well-prepared groups. It is better to have experience in chimney climbing, although the route is well-suited for getting acquainted with this truly interesting and enjoyable type of climbing. The terrain on the route does not lend itself to frequent use of protection, but there are places where pitons can be used. In principle, for the passage of the route, it will be sufficient to have:

• several medium-sized friends,
• a set of stoppers,
• seven to ten quickdraws.

Chelebi — 6

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko, Od­es­sa

Che­le­bi, Cri­mea. De­scrip­tions of al­pi­nist routes

The Che­le­bi massif is lo­cat­ed in the west­ern part of the Main Ridge of the Cri­mean Moun­tains, be­tween the "Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta" pass and the Il­yas-Ka­ya moun­tain. Rel­a­tive height is 200 m, ab­so­lute height is 600 m above sea lev­el. De­spite the mod­est height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th dif­fi­cul­ty grade are laid through the cen­tral part of the wall. The routes are very pop­u­lar (for ex­am­ple, the Ber­shov route, there are sev­er­al as­cends per day). De­scent from the wall is pos­si­ble both left and right. The left path (if look­ing to­wards the sea) is short­er:

• Walk along the yay­la along the cliff to­wards Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta for about 600–700 m.
• Near the de­scend­ing cou­loir there is a group of trees.
• Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.

Chelebi — 4

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa Chelebi, Crimea. Descriptions of mountaineering routes The Chelebi massif is located in the western part of the Main Ridge of the Crimean Mountains, between the "Baidarskie Vorota" pass and Ilias-Kaya mountain. Relative height is 200 m, absolute height is 600 m above sea level. Despite its relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty pass through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (for example, Bershov's route, there are sometimes several ascents per day). Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and from the right:

• The left path (if you look at the sea) is shorter: you need to go along the yayla along the cliff towards the Baidarskie Vorota for about 600–700 m.
• Near the descent couloir, a group of trees grows.
• Down the steep scree, then to the right along the wall.

Chelebi — 7

Author: Aleksandr Lav­ri­nen­ko, Odessa Che­le­bi, Crimea. Descriptions of alpinist routes The Che­le­bi massif is located in the western part of the Main Ridge of the Crimean Mountains, between the "Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta" pass and the Il'­yas-Ka­ya mountain. The relative height is 200 m, the absolute height is 600 m above sea level. Despite the relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty have been laid through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (for example, the Ber­shov route, there can be several ascents per day). Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and from the right. The left path (if looking towards the sea) is shorter:

• Follow the yaila along the cliff towards the Bai­dar Gates for about 600–700 m.
• Near the descent couloir, there is a group of trees.
• Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.

Chelebi — 8

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko, Odessa Che­le­bi, Crimea. Descriptions of alpinist routes The Che­le­bi massif is located in the western part of the Main ridge of the Crimean mountains, between the "Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta" pass and the Il'­yas-Ka­ya mountain. Relative height 200 m, absolute height 600 m above sea level. Despite the relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty pass through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (e.g., Bershov's route, there are several ascents per day). Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and the right. The left path (if looking towards the sea) is shorter:

• Follow the yayla along the cliff towards the Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta for about 600–700 m.
• Near the descent couloir, there is a group of trees.
• Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.

Route №12 “Zub”

(D. Popov, A. Shelkhakov, 1999) 5B V+ A2 345 m (10 pitches). Average completion time — 5–7 hours. A long and infrequently visited route. Some intermediate pitons are unreliable. Navigate through the boulder field to reach the base of a massive chimney-fissure. Follow the wall to the right, towards the flake “Zub”. The route starts on the large flake “Zub” leaning against the wall. From the top of the flake, the route transitions to the main wall, then to a large ledge. From the left part of the ledge, the route goes up through a series of internal corners. The exit to the yayla is via a piton traverse through an overhang. R0–R1: 35 m. Up the monolithic wall on the left side of “Zub” to the right, towards a tree. Pitons are present. Belay station on a tree. 35 m V+. R1–R2: 20 m. Up the slab, exit to a gentler slope. Belay station on a tree. 20 m V+ A1. R1–R2: 20 m. Up the slab, exit to a gentler slope. Belay station on a tree. 20 m V+ A1. R2–R3: 20 m. Descend into a gap between “Zub” and the main wall. Swing pendulum-style to the wall and reach the belay station. 20 m.

Shaan-Kaya — 11

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa Alexander Lavrinenko Shaan-Kaya is located in the Alupka area. It is not part of the Southern ridge, but is jutting out to the sea, in front of the Alupka wall. The wall height difference is about 250 m. In the central part, the wall overhangs. There are 6 routes laid on the wall (Note: as of December 2001, 8 routes have been completed), all 6B category. To get under Shaan-Kaya, you need to:

• Reach Alupka "Pitomnik" stop

Shaan-Kaya. Grishchenko route (left), 6A

Shaan-Kaya. Grishchenko route (left) — climbed by Viktor Grishchenko's team (Kiev). Grishchenko route (left), 6A, started along the old, unfinished bolted track, continued on natural relief — straight up, along corners. SH­AAN-KA­YA. Routes lines A simpler variation:

• Up left, along the system of inner corners, to the top of a spall (intersection with «Krym 87»)
• Further up, to a slanting crack