Fig. 15

Description of the ascent route to Jorashy-Kurshagan (South) 4286 m — 3A category of difficulty.

From the "Bezengi" alpine camp, the path goes along the Bezengi glacier to a sharp drop in the high right-bank (along the route) moraine. Climb up (to its lowering) along the talus of the couloir, and then up to the right along the Grassy inclined ledge (1–1.5 hours) to the ridge, from which a stream flowing from the Jorashy cirque is visible. Along the ridge, then along the rocks and talus on the right (along the route) side of the stream — exit to the Jorashy cirque. The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the exit to the cirque takes 4–5 hours. In the central part of the cirque, a narrow winding couloir is clearly visible, which leads to the Jorashy pass. In the upper part of the couloir, on the right, there is a large plug-slab, overcoming which with insurance through the ledges — exit to the pass (2 hours from the cirque). Overnight stay at the pass. (The path from the pass goes straight along the ridge!) in the direction of the summit. The sequence of passing the sections of the route:

• The first gendarme is passed head-on.
• The second one with an overhanging cornice is bypassed on the right, with an exit to the ridge behind the top of the gendarme.
• The key section of the route is a 30-meter-high wall, which is passed on the right side of the ridge.
• Further along the rocks of medium difficulty to the third gendarme, which is overcome on the left along the route (2 ropes) with an exit to its top in the upper part.
• Another rope along the ridge leads to a site under the next gendarme.

17. Traverse Dumala — Piramida — 4580 m with ascent to Dumalata from the north 3B cat. diff. (A. Naumov, V. Vanin, V. Gornago, A. Dobrushin, I. Ilyinsky, Yu. Kolenkin, G. Naumova, A. Pokrovsky and T. Tretyakova — July 1-3, 1964). The path from the "Bezengi" alp camp to the Green Glade under the Maly Ukju glacier see in description 1. From the glade, ascend to the moraine, to the right of the lowering in its ridge. Then up the moraine and snowy slopes of the Maly Ukju glacier. Behind the southern counterfort of the Ukyu peak, exit left onto the moraine running along the southern slopes of the peak. On the moraine — a bivouac. From the "Bezengi" alp camp — 5-6 hours. From the moraine, crossing the

7. Dykhni-Aush-bashi via the S ridge.

From the "Jangi-kosh" hut through the "sickle-shaped" moraine onto the Bezengi glacier, along the left (upstream) side of the glacier (watch out: covered crevices, rockfall hazard from the S slopes of peak Varsova) to the hollow at the base of the second S spur from the main Varsova—Sella ridge. Across the bottom of the hollow to the right and up into the cirque of Dykhni-Aush Pass and below the pass. From the hut 1.5–2 hours. Over the bergschrund and up a snowy slope (may involve 80–100 m of ice, protection via ice screws) to the pass and to the left to the start of the rocky ridge. 40–50 m with piton protection:

• either via an inside corner to the left of the ridge,
• or via simple rock to the right of the ridge. From here directly along the line of the ridge (watch out — dangerous on the left on the ledges: weak rock, possible ice), then along a level section to the left of the ridge to the pre-summit "gendarme". Climb onto the pre-summit "gendarme": from the ridge along a 5–7 m ledge to the left, then Dykhni-Aush-bashi.

Dykhtau (Main), North Ridge, Cat.4B

The initial bivouac is at "Russian Overnight".

• From "Russian Overnight" along a horizontal talus shelf, exit to the glacier.
• The icefall in the area where the glacier meets the rocky outcrops of the spur from the West Ridge of Misses-Tau is bypassed either to the right or via rocky shelves.
• Above the icefall lies the gentle part of the glacier and the beginning of the West couloir of Misses-Tau.
• Traverse the glacier, skirting to the right the base of the buttress extending from the large gendarme on the North Ridge of Dykh-Tau.
• Ascend the glacier along the buttress to the right of the gully (rocks) with a stream.
• Exit onto the saddle of the North Ridge to the right of the large gendarme via a firn slope (avalanche risk).

DYKH-TAU (Main), North Ridge - Cat. 4B

The initial bivouac is at "Russkie nochevki" (Russian Campsite). From "Russkie nochevki":

• Follow a horizontal talus shelf to the glacier.
• The icefall is located in the zone where the glacier meets the rocky outcrops of the spur from the West Ridge of Misses-Tau; bypass it either to the right or via rocky shelves.
• Above the icefall lies a gentle part of the glacier and the beginning of the West couloir of Misses-Tau.
• Traverse the glacier, skirting the base of the buttress that extends from the large gendarme on the North Ridge of Dykh-Tau to the right.
• Ascend the glacier along the buttress to the right of the gully (rocks) with a stream.
• Reach the saddle on the North Ridge to the right of the large gendarme via a firn slope (avalanche hazard).
• There are bivouac sites available on the saddle.

72. Main Dykhtau via the West Ridge — Cat. 4B (B. Garf, G. Vedennikov, G. Velikson, A. Davydov, S. Kalinkin and V. Kustovoi — August 23, 1940). The route from the “Bezengi” alpine camp to “Russkie nochyovki” is described in route 71. From “Russkie nochyovki”, 15–20 m up the West Ridge of the Missestau peak, then 120–150 m along the horizontal ledge on its right side — exit onto the glacier plateau. Across the glacier plateau to the right under the slopes of the North Ridge of Dykhtau (avalanches! icefalls!). The North-East counterfort descending from the North Ridge is traversed along simple rocks, under the wall of the rocky ascent of the counterfort. Further along the glacier, then up a steep 100-meter ice-and-snow

Dykh-Tau (Main), NE BUTTRESS — 5B

"Georgian Route".

Initial bivouac — on the meadow under the base of the SE ridge of Brno peak. From the meadow, transition to Cheget-Mijirgi glacier — western branch of Mijirginsky glacier, bounded by slopes of Dykh-Tau and Misses-Tau. Along the right side of the glacier:

• first, up along the slopes of the eastern ridge of Misses-Tau,
• then crossing the glacier to the left (crevasses, avalanches) with exit under the base of the NE buttress. 200 m below the upper rock island to the right and transition to rocks on the left edge of the buttress base. From the initial bivouac 5 hours. Further movement along the buttress with general direction left and up with exit to its right edge, subsequently turning into a clearly defined ridge. Along the way, between both edges, a series of more or less clearly defined ridges is overcome. A rock mushroom on the ridge of the NE buttress can serve as a landmark. Exit to the ridge under the yellow (40 m) wall 15–20 m above the mushroom. The wall is ascended in the center; the overhanging section in the upper part is bypassed to the right. 50–70 m of straightforward climbing after the wall lead to a ledge. Bivouac is possible. From the initial bivouac 12–14 hours. From the ledge:

Description of the ascent route to peak Kankosheva 3920 m via the Eastern edge (from KOSHTAN pass) – 3A category of difficulty.

From the overnight stay behind the moraine - into the moraine gap, exit to the Ullu-Auz glacier. Cross the glacier in the direction of the KOSHTAN pass. From the glacier - along the talus and snowfields, exit to the plateau below the KOSHTAN pass. From the plateau - along the snowy slope, passing the bergschrund on the right. Reach the KOSHTAN pass (replace the note in the cairn on the pass). From the pass - right and up along the wide snowy ridge. The first gendarme is bypassed on the left along the snow. The second - first a 10-15-meter traverse to the right, then 10 m straight up the plate and 30 m along the rocks of medium difficulty - exit to the gendarme's saddle. From the saddle - a 40-meter traverse along the ledges on the left side of the gendarme with an exit to the shoulder of the South counterfort. Along the steep rocks of medium difficulty 30 m up to the gendarme. Further - 50-70 m along the sharp snowy ridge - exit below the walls of the third gendarme. First, bypass it on the right along the boundary of ice and rocks to a 12-15-meter ledge. From the ledge - 50 m up the plate, then a traverse into a 70-80-meter couloir, which leads to the saddle. From the saddle - up a 15-meter cleft to the gendarme. From it - down to the ridge after 20–25 m. Further - up along the simple rocks of the ridge. The fourth gendarme is ascended straight up (40 m), then - bypassed by a 60-70-meter traverse on the left along the ledges and rocks of medium difficulty through the South counterfort with an exit beyond the gendarme to the saddle below the rocky ascent of peak Kankosheva. From the saddle - straight up 15 m along the difficult rocks of the counterfort. Further - 40 m along a 4-meter cleft - ascent to the Eastern peak of Kankosheva.

Peak Kankosheva via NW Edge — Category 4A

From the overnight stay behind the moraine of the Dumala glacier, the glacier is crossed towards the northwest (right) ridge of Peak Kankosheva. The exit to the ridge is on the right, bypassing the first large "gendarme" along the ice-snow slope (30–40°) and across the scree into the gap behind the "gendarme". Further movement is along the ridge:

• on its left side, along the ledges;
• using outcrops and rock pitons for belaying (2–3 ropes). The further path is strictly along the ridge. The rocks are of medium difficulty, with short complex walls encountered in places. After 3–4 ropes, the ridge turns into a narrow sharp "knife-edge", movement is possible:
• either to the right of the ridge along the slab, holding onto the sharp ridge,
• or astride the ridge — 1–1.5 ropes. The ridge abuts against a sheer wall 10–12 m (the key point of the route). To the left, the wall is dangerous to bypass due to heavily destroyed needle-like rocks; to the right, stones and avalanches come down the couloir. The wall must be overcome head-on. The upper part of the wall overhangs, with no holds. It is advisable to use ladders to overcome the wall. Another 2 ropes of difficult climbing lead back to the ridge, which goes: